anyone else having problems with the nozzle from seemecnc, it doesn't seem to handle corners very well.
or maybe its my settings?
seemecnc nozzle
seemecnc nozzle
My rostock build log http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=1228
- Jimustanguitar
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Re: seemecnc nozzle
What is it doing in corners that you don't like?
I wondered if mine was level or not, but I think it's more likely the whole hotend that's not mounted perfectly level... When I print the .5mm thin wall test cube, all 4 sides measure slightly different widths on the micrometer. I think the nozzle is tilted just a tad and that's making it "squeegee" the extruded filament a little differently for each wall.
I'm going to make a thin wall tri-wing shaped test piece to see if I can figure out which of the 3 aluminum spacers to tweak/tighten.
I wondered if mine was level or not, but I think it's more likely the whole hotend that's not mounted perfectly level... When I print the .5mm thin wall test cube, all 4 sides measure slightly different widths on the micrometer. I think the nozzle is tilted just a tad and that's making it "squeegee" the extruded filament a little differently for each wall.
I'm going to make a thin wall tri-wing shaped test piece to see if I can figure out which of the 3 aluminum spacers to tweak/tighten.
- bvandiepenbos
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Re: seemecnc nozzle
One trick if your nozzle end is not perfectly flat with build surface is to very carefully bring tip down to a piece of 600 grit sandpaper on build plate, jog it down until you feel slight drag, then move sandpaper (not head) back and forth to true up the end. Go slow and careful, it does not take much to get a nice flat. Then I like to move head up to home and gently break any sharp edge on your new flat. Then I use a fine needle to smooth out bore of orifice and remove any burr created by sanding new flat. Just spin the needle gently by hand, keep needle straight into hole don't rock it side to side. You don't want to enlarge the orifice or make it crooked or out of round. Then feel end of nozzle to see if the needle raised any burr the other direction, if so, gently stroke the flat with the sandpaper again to knock then do needle ream again.
You might need to go back and forth with these two techniques to eliminate any burrs either direction. Then I use a piece of plain copy paper to "buff" flat to a super smooth finish. The paper has just enough texture to act as a ultra fine polishing paper.
Keep in mind the brass nozzle hole is very thin where it meets 1.75 filament diameter so it is kind of fragile.
I have always massaged my new nozzles thin way. Sometimes their is a tiny burr inside nozzle for the manufacturing.
I can not imagine the standoffs being off enough to tip hot-end any noticeable difference, but it is something to check.
If your arm joints are binding that can possibly cause uneven extrusion widths and definitely round corners that should be square.
Happy printing.
You might need to go back and forth with these two techniques to eliminate any burrs either direction. Then I use a piece of plain copy paper to "buff" flat to a super smooth finish. The paper has just enough texture to act as a ultra fine polishing paper.
Keep in mind the brass nozzle hole is very thin where it meets 1.75 filament diameter so it is kind of fragile.
I have always massaged my new nozzles thin way. Sometimes their is a tiny burr inside nozzle for the manufacturing.
I can not imagine the standoffs being off enough to tip hot-end any noticeable difference, but it is something to check.
If your arm joints are binding that can possibly cause uneven extrusion widths and definitely round corners that should be square.
Happy printing.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
- Jimustanguitar
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Re: seemecnc nozzle
You didn't write a custom G-Code routine for sanding your print nozzle?bvandiepenbos wrote:very carefully bring tip down to a piece of 600 grit sandpaper on build plate, jog it down until you feel slight drag, then move sandpaper (not head) back and forth to true up the end.

The only reason that I suspect the mounting and not the nozzle itself is that I trust the CNC lathe that made the nozzle to be more accurate than the tolerances of the compressed wood or the injection molded plastic carrier... Regardless of the cause, honing the brass is definitely the surefire trick to perfectly match the nozzle to the heated bed. Nice suggestions and step by step.