First print with Taulman 645

[dbarrans]

Clearly I need to work on retraction, but these came out better than I expected for my first print using Taulman 645.

- dan

[dbarrans]

Well, this was actually the second attempt. First was with hairspray on glass at 85 degrees, and they peeled up after the first four layers. I figured why not try the tape, and it held for the full print at 70 degrees, and the parts were easy to pull off afterwards.

- dan

[cambo3d]

are you using the stock hotend?

[dbarrans]

I cleaned them up a bit and mashed them together. As soon as I tried to move the joint, one of them broke. The top parts are ABS, the bottom two (now four) parts are the Nylon parts I just printed.

- dan

[dbarrans]

Stock hot end at 230 degrees. Not yet calibrated; I haven't bought a thermocouple yet.

- dan

[dbarrans]

ABS doesn't like to stretch as much as it needs to for assembly. Nylon was fine with that, but delaminated when I applied bending force to try and move the joint. This stuff is supposed to be strong, but I've been having too much fun playing and haven't spent enough time dialing everything in yet. This was more to see if the hot end was up to the job. Seems like it is, at least for 645. I haven't tried 618 yet. Don't want to melt my hot end PTFE tubing.

- dan

[Polygonhell]

I found the 618 I could print at 230 but I needed closer to 245 to get a good bond between layers.
In fact larger parts would just delaminate because of the warping forces.

[dbarrans]

This was 645, not 618.

- dan

[Polygonhell]

This was 645, not 618.

- dan

Indeed, I was just suggesting you need to print it hotter to increase the strength of the layer bonds.

[elqisqeyano]

Stock hot end at 230 degrees. Not yet calibrated; I haven't bought a thermocouple yet.

- dan

Go with the E3D all metal hot end, you'll be able to print with just about anything. Very well built hot end. Fits on the Rostock like it was made for the Rostock. Nylon needs temps in the 250 to 270 C.