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Unable to get my Rostock Max to print properly due to retraction problems I replaced the Steves-Extruder with a modified QUBD extruder. This is a direct drive extruder that with the proper modifications is a very reliable extruder.

Here are some vidios of the new extruder in action.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noCzsStfoK8[/youtube]


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUWy8PKBnQ0[/youtube]


[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHLqejo-_TI[/youtube]

This printer is now on par with some of my other printers. I have a complete Rostock Max writeup in my website.

i may consider trying this extruder out also thanks for the links. although I have a pg35L micro extruder i want to mount first.

as far as the heatbed, using a higher voltage supply will speed up your heat times. i'm using a 24v and it gets to 115 in 5minutes but a 15-19volt will also suffice.

for the warping, i found that aluminum didn't help much, actually went back to boro glass, because it stayed flat. also if you haven't already check your rostock base frame to make sure it level. some of us have found that it doesn't sit flat, which was one of my problems that i had to fix also, which i believe caused the aluminum to warp.


i think its interesting though some people can get the bowden tuned to work for retraction and some can't without modifying or changing hardware.

Just too many variables with the Steves-Extruder/Bowden/hot-end. All I know is that when I start the extruder it taks several seconds to extrude plastic. Same for stopping. This is not true of any other extruder I have used and the direct drive extruders give the best results.

I have a 30Amp 12v power supply I purchased for providing power for a 12" silcon heated bed. It has and adjustment from 10v to 16v. I figured I would crank it to the max and give it a try. I take it that the heated bed voltage input can take 12-24v?

ive been using a dedicated 24v supply for the heatbed since day 1 of my build, I haven't had any problems with it.

people have had good results with 15-24volts.

by the way do you have the design files for your rostock qubd mount.?

The Rostock adapter I created is kind of a work in progress. It consists of 14 laser cut parts with some of the holes cut out by hand. It take 24 machine screws and a handfull of nylon spacers. Without me writing down a bunch of instructions I dont think it will do you much good at this time. At some point I may draw something up in Inventor and print the thing. Im just not sure how much time I want to put into the printer. I have a M2 on order and expect to put some time into that one as it is added to my collection.

The only downside to your mod I would say is that your print speeds are much lower. Which is not a surprise considering the amount of weight you are throwing around now with the nema motor, all those fans and the extruder itself of course.

Clearly your print quality is excellent (from what I can see anyways).

This would also make running a dual extruder setup impossible.

I can see the logic and the result behind going this route however. Obviously a filament path of a few cm is going to be far simpler to tune and optimize from retracts etc.

Nice job though. Looks like you do clean work.

msimpson wrote:

"This printer is now on par with some of my other printers. I have a complete Rostock Max writeup in my website."

Could you give me the link to your website?

Eaglezsoar wrote:msimpson wrote:

"This printer is now on par with some of my other printers. I have a complete Rostock Max writeup in my website."

Could you give me the link to your website?

The website is on my signature

http://www.kronosrobotics.com/xcart/home.php

After switching over to Xnaron's magnet arm's I am more convinced that this mod is not a good idea.

Your kinda defeating all the good points about having a delta printer. Your mod will limit the speed advantage a delta has over normal printers and you are also not going to be able to achieve the same speeds with comparable quality at those speeds that even a stock printer could achieve. Not to mention the stesses this is going to place on those tiny little belts and undersized motors in this application. So the motors will have to work harder, the Rambo is going to unquestionably run much hotter, so you also risk burning it out.

This may work well for a very short term but you have sacrificed every reason to get a delta for a short lived period of time before many issues creep up on you.

I think you perhaps have to take a step back and then return to your extruder and figure out what you are doing wrong or what is defective or not quite right about it.

I honestly have not had all the issues you had with yours, some yes, but I worked through them and sovled them. Simply throwing a solution onto the delta becuase you are more familiar with it and can make it work fast is not at all the way to advance your knowledge of deltas and form a unbiased opinion of them.

I swear to you my extruder is running as well if not arguably better than yours in that video. Because it is also running at a much higher rate of extrusion and retraction, but because of this my print speeds are much much higher. MUCH higher in fact.

I'd be willing to be that side by side quality would be on par or better too. But my print might take 1/3 less time to produce.

I'm not trying to insult you or take anything away from the work you have done and the effort you have expended trying to correct the issues you have personally experienced. I am simply hoping to reason with you about your methodology and resulting review/opinion it is leading you too.

The Oynx bed is a similar situation. There are far better solutions than immediately opting to dump it and replace it with a 1/2" aluminium plate. My oynx heats to 110c in just over 1:30 with a 1/4" aluminium plate secured to it and a borasilic glass plate secured to it. I print directly to the glass and rarely have any stick issues. The oposite really, getting the stuff off is the bigger issue generally. If something will not stick, a quick shot of hairspray solves that, rarely needed however.

A 1/2" aluminium plate with cavities for heater resistors is not a good option here. For many many more reasons and far more complications than simply resolving what you dislike about the Oynx. The fix for the Oynx is a 24v powersupply, Done. I run a 28v 15amp myself but anyways.

A 1/2" aluminum plate with cavities will not easily be able to resist warping. I am a mchinist trust me, this is a can of worms that is simple physics and WILL warp badly. Perhaps not instantly, but especially with cavities I garrentee it will.

Using power resistors is taking another step back in the wrong direction. They do not have the reliability, they are not a good choice for this application, there is a reason almost all heated beds are exploring different options. Again this seems to be something you are familiar with and immediately jumping over too. You are also going to further lose more height in print area. Something you have sacrificed alot of already with the extruder choice. So you are further throwing out the height advantage this printer has and another delta strength.

The you will have to switch to a stronger power supply for the 1/2" plate and perhaps a different temp control system.

All you have to do is change you power supply with the Oynx.

I hope you will take the tone of my post as friendly and offering to help and encourage you to re-evaluate the choices you are in my opinion comprimising the Rostock and it's performance by doing.

This is not like other 3d printers. It is better in alot of ways, and of course different. But embrace the differences and learn them as well. Rather than trying to make it into a different printer and lose it's real strengths by doing so.

Let me know if I can help. As I am sure many others will too.

Your new extruder setup is very similar to mine except I added a planetary gear to increase the torque and kept the bowden setup with an E3d hot end and am happy with the retraction now. See my post- http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1801 . Now I just have to get Xnaron's magnetic arms and I'll hopefully get rid of the backlash/delta blues.