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Hello all,
On page 16 of the newest manual (the incomplete one) the author says that "I would recommend adding a #4 star lock washer in addition to thread locker when you perform the installation." when talking about installing the stepper motors. Which size and brand should I buy? I am not sure what to get as there are many kinds of these washers.

Has anyone actually had a screw in the stepper come loose?
I've had the setscrews on the pulleys come loose, but I have hundreds of hours on mine and I've never had a stepper screw come loose.

Also could someone post a picture of what the washers look like and how they go on?

star lock washers are useless for wood. Why? because they are made to be crushed as you tighten them down, since your using it on wood, you damage the melamine instead.
put a dab of lock tight on the tips of screws before assembly and your good to go.

davidsf wrote:Also could someone post a picture of what the washers look like and how they go on?

This is what Gene is talking about.
The size is #4, which matches a 4-40 screw. (But the motor screws are M3, 3mm.) The brand depends on whether you get them at Home Depot or Ace Hardware. (-: They're generic hardware.

I defer to those who may actually know what they're talking about whether they're needed in this application.

I just figured better safe than sorry. Without threadlock at least, they WILL loosen over time.

g.

A local racing shop got me started using silicone to lock threads. Plain old RTV or gasket maker like you already have in your toolbox. It does a good job with vibration because it doesn't harden when it cures. It's not as frustrating to remove later either.

For the rostock, just dab a touch of the hi-temp silicone you're using for the hot-end on the threads of anything that you don't want to work loose over time.

Jimustanguitar wrote:A local racing shop got me started using silicone to lock threads. Plain old RTV or gasket maker like you already have in your toolbox. It does a good job with vibration because it doesn't harden when it cures. It's not as frustrating to remove later either.

For the rostock, just dab a touch of the hi-temp silicone you're using for the hot-end on the threads of anything that you don't want to work loose over time.

That's a great tip.

Jimustanguitar wrote:A local racing shop got me started using silicone to lock threads. Plain old RTV or gasket maker like you already have in your toolbox. It does a good job with vibration because it doesn't harden when it cures. It's not as frustrating to remove later either.

For the rostock, just dab a touch of the hi-temp silicone you're using for the hot-end on the threads of anything that you don't want to work loose over time.

This site needs a finger on the nose smiley. I've seen this before in other my other hobbies, just never connected it. Awesome!

We could use another smiley made from your avatar. We can use it when we want to scare the hell out of someone.