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I hate for this to be my very first post, but check out how warped my bed is!!! I have not even hooked it up yet, I simply put a strait edge on it to check and was a little amused to see the gap..... I will contact the guys at seemecnc in the AM but wanted to share.... I wonder if the shape or manufacturing stress is causing these issues. For now I will space the glass build plate up a bit to account for the gap, but I will lose bed heat as a result....... I love kit projects, they are never perfect and that is what makes them fun!

Winner!!!

That makes me wonder whether or not something non-metalic should be affixed under pressure to the back of the bed - with the same holes, etc.

My bed is pretty level - but when I am printing on outside edges, I sure can see the differences - even with glass over the top and eight clips around the circumference.

return it!

I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea in the long run to just integrate a Kapton heater system into the build surface.
The only issue I can see with that a bed leveling system would have to be created to support it. Not insurmountable though.

Another possibility would be to add additional fasteners to the board that would attach to holes drilled close to the inner circle that's cut in the middle of the Onyx mounting plate. That would allow you to force the board flat.

g.

geneb wrote:I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea in the long run to just integrate a Kapton heater system into the build surface.
The only issue I can see with that a bed leveling system would have to be created to support it. Not insurmountable though.

Another possibility would be to add additional fasteners to the board that would attach to holes drilled close to the inner circle that's cut in the middle of the Onyx mounting plate. That would allow you to force the board flat.

g.

That's assuming that the melamine is also straight. With so many things attached to it, it should be; however, it might be as important in terms of precision as the t-rails.

Interesting problem!

Part of the reason Onyces warp is the way they are solidly mounted to the table. As the bed heats, it expands. But the six screw points on the perimeter can not move. The only way the bed can expand is up and down, so it warps.

I've thought about some kind of mounting that lets the outer screw points move horizontally, but only in a controlled way. A seventh mounting point in the center would make that a lot easier.

My Onyx is disgustingly flat, so it's just been a thought experiment for me. (BTW, I have never heated it without the borosilicate surface clamped on. That may explain how it stays flat.)

The bed would warp with or without the screws, they just make it worse.
Your only heating the traces on one side of the bed, they expand and it warps all the PCB heaters do this, it's a cheap easy way to build a heated bed.

geneb wrote:I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea in the long run to just integrate a Kapton heater system into the build surface.
The only issue I can see with that a bed leveling system would have to be created to support it. Not insurmountable though.

Another possibility would be to add additional fasteners to the board that would attach to holes drilled close to the inner circle that's cut in the middle of the Onyx mounting plate. That would allow you to force the board flat.

g.

I reached out to these folks for some ideas. I am wondering they wouldn't produce something that could be attached to machined aluminum - like what Makerbot is now doing.

grmproducts.com

They make other heated beds as well as full externally powered systems.

I think an adjustable mechanism in the middle of the bed would be a great idea for this particular issue. I love the idea of a heated aluminum/steel bed similar to what the $500k machines at my work have, however I think I would rather make an Onyx bed work on my $1000 printer than make a $500 bed for it.

However trinity labs has a 240mm kapton heater for around $70 that would more than likely heat up a machined bed if given enough time. The extra ~= 2" of unheated aluminum (assuming you kept the onyx dims) would also heatup as the 9"+ of heated area heated up. Can anyone make a 1/4" plate aluminum bed to sell? I know the 1/8" was offered but it also warped. This may be a steel only option though.....

I am very impressed with the quality of this kit and while it is not ready for the less mechanically inclined, it will get there some day.

I am also impressed by what we have all received for $1000. While that is alot of money, it is not that much in the rapid prototyping world and not even that much for what you can get at the hobby level. I will admit those arms had me going for a bit since every one of mine pinched down at the tip by over 1mm. However I realized that if I installed the machined hub and then heated the ends, the stress in the arm would be released and very little sanding would be required once the pinch was gone.

I don't think I will start a build thread since I have nothing to add at this point worthy of mention, however here are some pics of my MAX as she sits tonight. The white pieces on top of the bed are nylon spacers that I am going to use to lift the glass off the bed since my bed is sooooooo warped. BTW I talked to John and SeeMeCNC and everything will be taken care of with the bed.

Enjoy.......

Sorry the photo flipped... iPhone issues..... LOL

We'll get you a new one ASAP. Email [email protected]

I just checked a bunch of Onyx and can't find any that bad. I've attached a photo of typical results. I've placed them on a piece of glass. They're usually very good.

Christian79 wrote:I hate for this to be my very first post, but check out how warped my bed is!!! I have not even hooked it up yet, I simply put a strait edge on it to check and was a little amused to see the gap..... I will contact the guys at seemecnc in the AM but wanted to share.... I wonder if the shape or manufacturing stress is causing these issues. For now I will space the glass build plate up a bit to account for the gap, but I will lose *spam link removed* heat as a result....... I love kit projects, they are never perfect and that is what makes them fun!

i agree with geneb. just try to add additional fasteners & forget all.

[Edited: Nice try, jacka**. -gb]

PartDaddy wrote:We'll get you a new one ASAP. Email [email protected]

I just checked a bunch of Onyx and can't find any that bad. I've attached a photo of typical results. I've placed them on a piece of glass. They're usually very good.

SeeMeCNC Onyx Flatness 15-JUN-2013.jpg

dont try to fix this issue, take up partdaddy's offer and get a new one..the onyx warps when heated also so that may compound to your issue..

Oh I will, Infact I have already contacted them and am waiting on them to ship it. I just wanted to rig it to I could play with it and get familiar with the printer. I am having peeling issues with the ABS because I cannot get the glass hot enough since it is off the bed so much, but other than that it is great.

Mine was a bit warped when cold as well. Not as bad as yours, but about 50% of the way there. Found some 5/16" milled flat cast aluminum plate from Sands Machine in Cali for not too bad a price and ordered a couple of plates. Cut one down to size and mounted it directly over the top of the Onyx and then bought a 24v power supply and a DC SSR to power the Onyx. Nice and flat now...

http://www.sandsmachine.com/alumweb.htm