Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Anyone else having trouble with the EZ slipping on them?

I definitely had slipping with E3d all-metal hotend and PLA. It works fine for me with ABS on the E3d and PLA on a hotend similar to a J-head.

mine seems to be working good on abs, and nylon. haven't tried pla yet. I use the ED3 hotend also.

Ive been using cura, problems seems to go away with kiss. I even tried the simple mode. My steps are set at 96 for the ez. I'm printing out a version of the Kossel extruder to be used with a geared reduction stepper. similar to xnoion's
Anyone else using the new Cura? other than this issue, I really like the new Cura, It even supports the rostock bed center

no slipping here with the stock hotend and abs. I haven't been running very high print speeds though, about 40mm/s

bplemmons wrote:Anyone else having trouble with the EZ slipping on them?

Mine doesn't slip; it "chunks" -- the motor stalls and goes back a step. It only does that when the extruder is too cold.

Do you know whether your hobbed wheel is slipping on the motor shaft or the filament is slipping on the wheel?

For the first, tighten the wheel setscrew. If it came loose, hit it with thread locker. Grind a flat on the motor shaft if you have to.

For the second, I don't know. Check that the hobbed wheel's slot is aligned with the spring loaded bearing. Check that the spring and spring-loaded arm are not binding on anything. Check that the filament spool spins freely.

Been a while since I last posted, got a lot of things going on. But thought I'd chime in here.

I have had problems with my EZ extruder stalling, just like kbob described. But only at speeds higher than 50mm/s.

This is regardless of ABS or PLA. I am using the Budaschnozzle V1.1, but with a modification of my own. Instead of the threaded aluminum body, I made up a brass one at work. I did this to prevent destroying the hot end if I wanted to swap out nozzles or clean it out, already destroyed 2 because of the aluminum body.

I just can't get past that 50mm/s barrier. Even with the temp set to 230 and using PLA it just won't get past it. My theory is that plastic is whipping thru the brass body so fast that it can't keep it's temp up high enough. I've even maxed out the current for the extruder motor, the only difference that it seemed to make was... My extruder motor actually runs cooler now.

I just received a jhead hot end, and once I make a mount for it I'll be testing it out to see if I can get any faster speeds.

Also, I'll have to check when I get home but my steps for my extruder are kinda high up there. Higher than what I've seen other report. But I've checked it at least 3 times, and one time I tried out what others are reporting for theirs but it failed to fully fill a solid calibration block.

Av8r RC wrote:I just can't get past that 50mm/s barrier. Even with the temp set to 230 and using PLA it just won't get past it. My theory is that plastic is whipping thru the brass body so fast that it can't keep it's temp up high enough. I've even maxed out the current for the extruder motor, the only difference that it seemed to make was... My extruder motor actually runs cooler now.

Remember freshman physics. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enthalpy_of_fusion Plastic absorbs energy as it melts. To melt faster, you need more power. The resistors can only apply so much power, about 40 watts minus whatever heat leaks out everywhere else.

When you're trying to extrude at 50mm/s, is the heater running at 100% all the time? Is your hot end temperature dropping anyway? If so, then you'll want to either find more power or more efficiency. Efficiency is easier; start by turning your PEEK fan down (at high extrusion speeds only), then insulate the hot end.

(Or not. 50mm/sec is really fast.)

Have you checked the digipot settings for the extruder drive? I've got mine set at 210.

g.

kbob wrote:

Av8r RC wrote:I just can't get past that 50mm/s barrier. Even with the temp set to 230 and using PLA it just won't get past it. My theory is that plastic is whipping thru the brass body so fast that it can't keep it's temp up high enough. I've even maxed out the current for the extruder motor, the only difference that it seemed to make was... My extruder motor actually runs cooler now.

Remember freshman physics. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enthalpy_of_fusion Plastic absorbs energy as it melts. To melt faster, you need more power. The resistors can only apply so much power, about 40 watts minus whatever heat leaks out everywhere else.

When you're trying to extrude at 50mm/s, is the heater running at 100% all the time? Is your hot end temperature dropping anyway? If so, then you'll want to either find more power or more efficiency. Efficiency is easier; start by turning your PEEK fan down (at high extrusion speeds only), then insulate the hot end.

(Or not. 50mm/sec is really fast.)

I would say when printing at 50 and the temp set at 230 the duty cycle is about 95%. Like I said, I theorize that the brass body is just not able to absorb enough heat to melt the plastic fast enough. I've insulated the heater block with kapton tape. And I've also tried turning off the coldend fan, but it didn't really help. Maybe bought me about 5mm/s more.

I know 50mm/s is pretty fast, but I want/need higher speeds for projects that require large parts.

geneb wrote:Have you checked the digipot settings for the extruder drive? I've got mine set at 210.

g.

I have it set to the max 255. And seems to run cooler at 255 than it did at the default 190(?).

I think I found the problem. I switched to a different hot end and it still had some kaptan tape on the peek, which must have been blocking some of the air from the peek fan causing clogging which in turn caused extruder issues..

geneb wrote:Have you checked the digipot settings for the extruder drive? I've got mine set at 210.

g.

That was addressed to me, right?

I have not. I've never seen that as a parameter; I assume you have to reflash the firmware to change it. And my RAMBo does not have a bootloader. So I haven't reflashed it.

kbob wrote:

geneb wrote:Have you checked the digipot settings for the extruder drive? I've got mine set at 210.

g.

That was addressed to me, right?

I have not. I've never seen that as a parameter; I assume you have to reflash the firmware to change it. And my RAMBo does not have a bootloader. So I haven't reflashed it.

Never mind. The G-code is M908 P3 S\[0..255\]. The default value is 195, which corresponds to 1.05 amps. (Thus spake the source code.) Legal values are 0 through 255. 255 would be 1.38A. (I'm assuming the Digipot is linear.)

The motors are rated for 2.5 amps. The stepper drivers are rated for up to 2A with appropriate heatsinks. I will put "monitor RAMBo temperatures and turn up the motor current" on my to-do list. I still have a little of my 30 hours of horsepuckey time left.

So I could add the line to my start gcode file? I would do it through ardrino but I can find my current repetier firmware file....Unless there is a way to pull it back out of the machine...... ?