Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Thought it would be interesting to see what people are doing. If you've got something special that others should strongly consider, reply here. I tried to be general and come up a single thread to roll up most mods being made.

Let's have this be hardware only please...

All of the above. What can I say I love to fiddle. Always hoping for that extra little improvement.

There have been many 1 step forwards and then two steps back, but that's all part of the learning experience.

And I look forward to seeing everyone of them!

(Just noticed my typo in the subject! lol)

Making a reply so this comes to the top of the forum - if you haven't completed this short mods survey, please do.

OK here it goes:

I have made screw tensioners for the cheapskate belts
Swapped my pillars with black 80/20
Increased the print height by aprox. 4"
Cracked my Boro Glass
swapped resistors in the hotend
Added lights
Added knobs
Replaced off/on switch with better looking one.
Replaced shiny screws with black flat heads
Painted all edges black
added gloss black trim to the 80/20 pillers

Im working on:

Magnetic arms
Gloss-black delron lock nuts
ceramic hot end
ceramic build plate
bracing for 80/20 pillars
rerouting all wires through the pillars
Disconnect box for the hot end
new hot end mount
ball bearing mod for cheapskates
lights on the limit switches

And you cant forget my very first Print

MIC-6 heated bed over ONYX.
External 1000w 24v power supply for heated bed triggered by solid state relay. Heats MIC-6 bed to 100c in 5 minutes flat.
Just ordered Hall Effect sensors to install in place of the micro-switches.

The above changes weren't on the list above.

I also have added the E3D V5 Hot End.
Made a custom effector mount for the hot end using the scraps from cutting down the Sands Machine MIC-6 plate. Accidentally cracked the effector mount while trying to cut away excess material using the milling machine. Cranked the vise down just a little too much and ended up hearing the dreaded crack that almost split the mount entirely in two. Luckily, I think I can brace where the crack is to keep it from spreading and then continue hacking away excess material to finish the mount up and keep it as light as I can. Going to drill and tap for 5mm threads at a 90 degree angle transecting the crack and then pack freshly mixed (thin) JB weld inside the threads and then quickly start turning two 5mm set screws into the piece from either side. This should push the JB weld into the cracks from the inside out. Then I carefully back out one screw while tightening the other screw in until it transects the crack itself while completely removing the other screw. This leaves the steel screw in place along with the threads to set with the JB weld inside the crack to further stabilize the crack. Use any remaining JB weld to cosmetically fill the cracks as seen from the outside of the piece. Once the JB weld sets, I can put the piece on the band saw and continue to remove excess material and lighten the part up more or less as originally intended. It will look rough, but it should work.

Added vertical tube running to top to make a conduit for easily running wires "up top".

CJGerard wrote:OK here it goes:

I have made screw tensioners for the cheapskate belts
Swapped my pillars with black 80/20
Increased the print height by aprox. 4"
Cracked my Boro Glass
swapped resistors in the hotend
Added lights
Added knobs
Replaced off/on switch with better looking one.
Replaced shiny screws with black flat heads
Painted all edges black
added gloss black trim to the 80/20 pillers

Im working on:

Magnetic arms
Gloss-black delron lock nuts
ceramic hot end
ceramic build plate
bracing for 80/20 pillars
rerouting all wires through the pillars
Disconnect box for the hot end
new hot end mount
ball bearing mod for cheapskates
lights on the limit switches

And you cant forget my very first Print

Can you tell me what is the ball bearing mod for cheapskates?

My first mod was to install 14 Gage automotive zip cord from the power supply (desoldered the small wires, separated the 40 strand 14 gauge wire into 10 strand groups, inserted them into the small holes on the power supply ckt board and soldered)
I also used the 14 Gauge wire on the ONYX.

The voltage out of my ATX supply is 11.08 Volts. The input Voltage for the Hot Bed connections at the controller under full load is 11.04 V. The Voltage on the ONYX is 10.78 Volts (total IR drop plus the MOSFET loss)

My next mod was to use a high temperature cure Alumina Ceramic in the hot end. (I make temperature probes at work). If I could do it over I would like to try Resbond™ 920 Thermally Conductive Adhesive (Room temperature cure). I did not finish the total cure / did not know how to take the hot end apart to save the PEEK (Its rated for 500 deg F max and I need to cure at 650 to 700 deg F )

I have also added resistors for the minimum loads for the +5v and +3.3 volt power

I ran a ground wire to each of the three towers (just in case a static charge builds up)

My next Power Supply mod will be to regulate the 12V with remote sense at the controller board power connector

Mark

Printed belt tensioners
1watt X 3 LED ring on bottom of effector
E3D V5 hot end
Trick Laser CF rods