Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

something we are working on.
now I can see what I am printing!
PCB board with surface mount LED's
very thin, mounts to bottom of platform with existing stand-off screws.

coming soon!
http://youtu.be/i-kdOt0ZLfI

Looks great! If I didn't already have a LED ring in place I'd pick one up. Hell, I may get one anyway

Will this have built in current limiting resistors for the Leds? If so, it's set up for 12v? And whats the projected cost?

yes, it includes the resistors for LED's to run with 12v
we are selling them for $20.00
available for pre-order now http://www.tricklaser.com/LED-Light-Rin ... D-RING.htm
also includes wire pigtail soldered onto board with M-F JST connectors.

SMT LEDs on a PCB. Nice. Do you etch your own or do you have a fab do it?

626Pilot wrote:SMT LEDs on a PCB. Nice. Do you etch your own or do you have a fab do it?

I routed the first few boards on our engraving machine. Once the design is tested and finalized we will order large quantity from a board fabber to keep cost down. Then we solder boards up ourselves.

bvandiepenbos wrote:yes, it includes the resistors for LED's to run with 12v
we are selling them for $20.00
available for pre-order now http://www.tricklaser.com/LED-Light-Rin ... D-RING.htm
also includes wire pigtail soldered onto board with M-F JST connectors.

Can you provide further information about the JST connectors? Are these regular size, mini, 2 pin, etc. Do you provide both sides, or just the side connected to the LED ring? (You might want to include an image of the connector on your store website)

Looking at ordering this along with your CF arms. Any idea what the ball park ship date will be?

Cheers,
Nathan

bvandiepenbos wrote: I routed the first few boards on our engraving machine. Once the design is tested and finalized we will order large quantity from a board fabber to keep cost down. Then we solder boards up ourselves.

If you don't mind me asking, what fab do you use? I'm looking for one.

bvandiepenbos wrote:yes, it includes the resistors for LED's to run with 12v
we are selling them for $20.00
available for pre-order now http://www.tricklaser.com/LED-Light-Rin ... D-RING.htm
also includes wire pigtail soldered onto board with M-F JST connectors.

From a customer stand point I think $20 bucks is more than fair price for this unit but the $8-10 shipping price is way too much. Something about paying almost the same price in shipping as for the actual product just doesn't sit right

LorenOlepi wrote:From a customer stand point I think $20 bucks is more than fair price for this unit but the $8-10 shipping price is way too much. Something about paying almost the same price in shipping as for the actual product just doesn't sit right

That's why I'm planning to order a bunch of stuff at the same time. Makes it easier to swallow.

theverant wrote:

bvandiepenbos wrote:yes, it includes the resistors for LED's to run with 12v
we are selling them for $20.00
available for pre-order now http://www.tricklaser.com/LED-Light-Rin ... D-RING.htm
also includes wire pigtail soldered onto board with M-F JST connectors.

Can you provide further information about the JST connectors? Are these regular size, mini, 2 pin, etc. Do you provide both sides, or just the side connected to the LED ring? (You might want to include an image of the connector on your store website)

Looking at ordering this along with your CF arms. Any idea what the ball park ship date will be?

Cheers,
Nathan

We plan on shipping about July 26
It is a 2 pin JST connector and includes both sides. I do not know what size it is.

626Pilot wrote:

bvandiepenbos wrote: I routed the first few boards on our engraving machine. Once the design is tested and finalized we will order large quantity from a board fabber to keep cost down. Then we solder boards up ourselves.

If you don't mind me asking, what fab do you use? I'm looking for one.

I will get the board mfg link for you from the guy that is soldering these up for me.

626Pilot wrote:

bvandiepenbos wrote: I routed the first few boards on our engraving machine. Once the design is tested and finalized we will order large quantity from a board fabber to keep cost down. Then we solder boards up ourselves.

If you don't mind me asking, what fab do you use? I'm looking for one.

this is the place to get boards made http://www.pad2pad.com/
If you need help designing the board I know a electrical engineer that loves to tinker (no, not me)

bvandiepenbos wrote:something we are working on.
now I can see what I am printing!
PCB board with surface mount led lights
very thin, mounts to bottom of platform with existing stand-off screws.

coming soon!

Have those are availbale in market now ? I'm interested dude..........

They are available @ www.tricklaser.com

Hey brian, i was wondering if you had a quick tutorial on how to install the lighting ring somewhere? Also, a quick page on the top hat too. Thanks!

Brian,

I just got your LED Light Ring and the Stepper Motor Sound Isolators for my Rostock MAX. I'm a little disappointed that there is no guidance on using either. The stepper motor pads were relatively easy to figure out but the light ring is confusing me.

I'm using the stock hot-end assembly and effector platform. It's not possible to mount the light ring to the bottom of the effector platform either with or without the spacers using the existing 6-32 x1.75" screws. I'll go the the hardware store and get some longer ones but I'm wondering if I might be doing it wrong.

Also, what are the pads labels L+ and L- next to two of the screw holes? It looks like they might be an alternative power connection but I'm not sure how or if I could or should use them.

As I said, a little guidance would be nice. I'm comfortable performing the mechanical aspects of maintaining and upgrading a 3-D printer (Otherwise I wouldn't have bought a printer kit.) but as a newbie, I am not familiar with what best or standard practices are in all cases.

Thanks,

Kile

Kile wrote:I'm using the stock hot-end assembly and effector platform. It's not possible to mount the light ring to the bottom of the effector platform either with or without the spacers using the existing 6-32 x1.75" screws. I'll go the the hardware store and get some longer ones but I'm wondering if I might be doing it wrong.

It has been a while since I installed my TL light ring and I am away from the shop at the moment to look at it. That said, I seem to remember having a similar issue with struggling to install without any instructions. However, I think I remember that the stock screws will work if you reverse them so the nuts are at the top of the hotend mount.

Kile wrote:Brian,

I just got your LED Light Ring and the Stepper Motor Sound Isolators for my Rostock MAX. I'm a little disappointed that there is no guidance on using either. The stepper motor pads were relatively easy to figure out but the light ring is confusing me.

I'm using the stock hot-end assembly and effector platform. It's not possible to mount the light ring to the bottom of the effector platform either with or without the spacers using the existing 6-32 x1.75" screws. I'll go the the hardware store and get some longer ones but I'm wondering if I might be doing it wrong.

Also, what are the pads labels L+ and L- next to two of the screw holes? It looks like they might be an alternative power connection but I'm not sure how or if I could or should use them.

As I said, a little guidance would be nice. I'm comfortable performing the mechanical aspects of maintaining and upgrading a 3-D printer (Otherwise I wouldn't have bought a printer kit.) but as a newbie, I am not familiar with what best or standard practices are in all cases.

Thanks,

Kile

Hello Kile,
yes, you may need longer screws to mount ring with stand off screws, depends on how long they sent with your kit. 2-1/4" long X 6-32 thread should be fine. Make sure you use the short plastic spacers that came with light ring, they go between underside of platform and light ring. They are meant to fill the void under platform so when you tighten screws it helps prevent cracking ring and damaging the traces.
Another mounting option is to screw into the unused holes on either side of stand off screws. A 3/8" long #4 self tapping screw will thread into plastic hole. The holes don't line up perfect to light ring but are close enough to work.

The L+ and L- are a optional way to power light ring thru the stand offs. You would need to solder a bridge between small pad and screw pad and provide so way to get power attached to top of stand off. Note: if you do this I would insulate the outside of metal stand offs with shrink tubing.

hope this helps.
~*Brian