Power Failure

[jjtime]

I am a newbie and almost finished with Ro Max Delta assembly. I was not supplied with any 14 awg wire with my build, but do have plenty of 16 awg
that I purchased. My question is: Is it safe to substitute 16 awg in lieu of the 14 awg on the hot plate or could that cause a problem. I also used 22 gauge on the hot end by mistake where it called for 16 gauge, could that cause problems. I have plenty of time to correct it if absolutely necessary but may destroy the resistors if I have to take apart the nozzle. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you JJ in NV.

[foshon]

I am a newbie and almost finished with Ro Max Delta assembly. I was not supplied with any 14 awg wire with my build, but do have plenty of 16 awg
that I purchased. My question is: Is it safe to substitute 16 awg in lieu of the 14 awg on the hot plate or could that cause a problem. I also used 22 gauge on the hot end by mistake where it called for 16 gauge, could that cause problems. I have plenty of time to correct it if absolutely necessary but may destroy the resistors if I have to take apart the nozzle. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you JJ in NV.

If you can swing it use two 16's for the plate, you will thank yourself later. The issue isn't that the amperage exceeds the wires capability, but that the smaller gage wiring will hinder heat-up times. 22 seems small for the hot end, but like so many of us, you'll have to disassemble it eventually anyhow, you might as well wait until then to change it.

[lordbinky]

Generalized (the wires could take more but you're getting into iffy areas since your somewhat exposing them to considerable heat) I pull these values for open air chassis wiring, the power transmission ratings are much lower.
anyways rule of thumb:
try to keep it under

AWG 14 - 32 Amps
AWG 16 - 22 Amps
AWG 22 - 7 Amps

Bigger wire will be better all other things equal, but stiffness and stranded vs solid ect. I'd definitely consider bumping up the 22 to the 16 for reliability and safety margin. I thought I read somewhere the plate was pulling like 18 amps on it's initial draw (I could just be imagining this....), so it depends on what you want to try to get by with or if it's worth trying to play it safe.

Or like foshon suggested, doubling the wire splits the amps being carried on them so that's another option.

[Jimustanguitar]

Anytime you double a wire, the AWG number goes down by 2. Two 12 AWG will make a 10, two 10 AWG will make an 8, etc.

Double up the dual 16's like Foshon said, that'll get you to 14. That's the way mine is, and that's what wire is included in the kit for that purpose.

[jjtime]

How can you remove a positive latch connector?

Well I thought about it and bent a paper clip over and depressed the lever and it pulled right out very easily. Nothing like
a deep sleep to remove indecision and come up with the solution. Push on mates.

[Eric]

That's a generic term applying to many different products, in many different ways. You'll have to be more specific. A picture would be best.

[jjtime]

Never mind I used a paper clip and it worked fine.

[jjtime]

Ref: page 1 callout of Rambo color coding per assembly file.

http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Rambo-conn-all.jpg

schematic shows xyz axis pin layout as blue-yellow-red-green


Assembly page 14 Fig 2.8 shows pin yellow-blue-red-green

I am double checking before I power up for first time and need to know if wiring

order on page 14 fig 2.8 is correct which is the order I used, or the order on the

supplied Rambo schematic on

http://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:Rambo-conn-all.jpg ?????



JJ in NV

[September]

I followed the manual and it worked fine for me, except I had to change the defaults in the firmware for the E0 to be the opposite, in my case true to false (it flips the direction of the motor), other than that the directions of the motors were correct.

If you follow the Rambo diagram you may have to modify the firmware to flip XYZ direction. (The wire groupings look correct as in YB and RG).

Either way I followed Genes manual v1.07, 18th June 2013.

[September]

PS

Just having another look at the PCB, it looks like it could be an old version, mine has a 15AMP fuse top right corner, where it looks like it has a capacitor.

So I wouldn't be trusting that diagram if you have a different version of the Rambo PCB.

[jjtime]

Power Supply wont come on

Postby jjtime » Wed Jul 03, 2013 10:48 am

Well, I finally got up enough nerve to start up for the first time. Went out an got a fire estinquisher, hooked up to extension cord and turned on power. Nothing I mean nothing happened. No power supply, no fan nothing. Any ideas?

[Jimustanguitar]

You're switching the green wire to ground, right?

[jjtime]

Yes, green is on ground.

[jjtime]

Does anyone know the correct email address of Tech support.
I have been sending to " [email protected] " for 3 weeks now without a response?

[cambo3d]

Does anyone know the correct email address of Tech support.
I have been sending to " [email protected] " for 3 weeks now without a response?

that's the same one i've usd in the past, they have always responded back, have you tried phone call?

[jjtime]

I just finished assembly of Rostock Max.

My Rostock Max will not strart up. No response at all. I checked all the wiring. I plugged in the power supply and turned it on. Nothing happened. I flipped the led power switch on nothing happens. What am I missing?

[kbob]

Did you plug it in? (-: Is the outlet live? Did you flip the toggle switch on the back?

The next thing to do is to put a volt meter on the power supply outputs and see whether it's making voltage. If it's a dead supply, replace it. If you have 12V coming to all three pairs of pins on the RAMBo power connector, then it's something else.

There is a jumper on a three pin header on the left side of the RAMBo. When the jumper is connecting the top two pins, the digital electronics get power from USB. When it connects the bottom two, the electronics get power from the power connector. When it is missing, the electronics are not powered.

This picture shows that header labeled Power Select. http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Rambo-conn-main.jpg

After all that, check the fuses on the RAMBo? I haven't had to do that, so don't know much about it.

[kbob]

Forgot:

Are you sure the power switch is shorting one of the black wires to the green wire? There should only be one green wire.

[September]

How'd you go, any luck?

Another thing to check and it'd be too late now for the PSU if it was wrong, did you check the voltage for the PSU? Assuming you are using a normal computer type power supply (like the one that comes with the Rostock Max kit) they generally have a switch between 110VAC and 230VAC mains supply and depending on what country you are in this may need to change.

Other than that double check your wiring failing that maybe you could show us some photos of the wiring, maybe we can see something that you didn't.

It is possible that it's a dud component whether it's the PSU or other, although I believe the chances are low on that account, hopefully it's just a lose wire.

[kbob]

626Pilot posted a good troubleshooting guide for someone with exactly your problem.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 334#p15334

[jmick]

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=a ... 64320-1&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=a ... 50368-1&zw

https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=a ... isp=thd&zw