Getting the base layer to stick

[Polygonhell]

The postman just arrived and delivered my PTFE tubing, so I got to try some more printing.
I'd had marginal success with a couple of hollow test cubes in yellow PLA before I clogged the PTFE tube beyond rescuing.
I thought I'd take a step back and just print the 20x20 text cube to get the settings a bit more dialed in.
Using White PLA this time on blue 3M masking tape, I had a heck of a time getting the bottom layer to stick in the end what worked was slowing down the first pass to 20% of the regular speed, and setting the first layer layer height to 0.9 in slicer.
There is certainly more improvement to be had, but the prints look pretty good.
The bottom layer is overly squished as you might expect, but considering I'm still using the plastic bearings, and no fan or other additions I think it came out pretty well.
Hopefully others having issues with the base layer will find the slow the base layer down tip useful.
Anyone else have tips for getting PLA to stick better to Blue tape?

I think there is some fine tuning that can be done with the temperature that could improve it further.

[JTCUSTOMS]

Very nice! I am working on mine right now as well, have not printed anything yet but I will soon.
I got my linear bearings and rod this week so I am going to try and get it together soon. Still have to order some filament though.

Its nice to see a fellow Washingtonian here. I am up north in bellingham or as Howie Long says....
"Southern Alaska"

JTCUSTOMS

[Dave_Sohlstrom]

JT you lucky dog. You live in Grizzly land. my last stop there was last summer returning from Burnaby BC.

[JTCUSTOMS]

JT you lucky dog. You live in Grizzly land. my last stop there was last summer returning from Burnaby BC.

Dave I love your mods so far!
Being so close to Grizz has its advantages and disadvantages, I spend waaaayyyyy too much money there haha

But now I have my cnc mill and cnc lathe which have been pretty useful for my mods so far.
All us "locals" should get together for a BBQ sometime.

EDIT: I see you were on your way BACK from Burnaby, so where are you from?

[Dave_Sohlstrom]

JT

I'm down south at Ariel WA up the Lewis river from Woodland WA just north of Vancouver, WA.

[Leeway]

One thing I have been doing with the blue tape is to clean it after initial install as well as between printings provided it is still intact. I wipe some acetone over it to remove any traces of finger oils. Seems to help quite a bit. I think different brands of the blue tape work better than others as well.
This time better is the cheaper off brand that is usually a darker blue. What I am using currently is the 3M Scotch brand. Will be trying some HF version next time.

[Polygonhell]

Indeed good to see someone else from around here, love the area, moved out here the first time 15 years ago.
Just finished a bridging test cube

Quality is pretty acceptable, watching it print I have some pretty clear backlash in Y, and given the way the plastic idlers are squeaking, I'd guess at least one of them isn't turning. I have some skate bearings, so I may try and replace them, then tighten the belt see if that helps.
I Also have the bearing upgrade kit but it'll be at least the weekend before I get to that.

Overall though I have to say I'm impressed how well the completely stock kit prints, though I'm using a RAMPS board in place of the stock electronics I doubt that has much impact on the print quality.

[Polygonhell]

Another update, I pulled down the latest copy of Slic3r last night and it now supports a different temperature for the base layer.
Running the base layer at 195 to aid adhesion of the base layer and the rest of the print at 190 has significantly improved the print quality with tall thin models.

[Leeway]

That is helpful as well as using the 1st layer percentage when you know the bed is a little tight or loose on the Z height settings. I have only just begun messing with that though, but I see possibilities with it.
I have a Prusa rather than an H1, though I did look hard at it when I mine. I have designed and printed an adjustable opto holder for it and have bed leveling knobs, but it can still be a bit of a pain to get the Z height precise. I use the same method I use on my mill. Thin paper like phone book thin. (as in one page ) Of course I am trying to print @ .2 mm thickness, so that comes into play as well.
I just really like the look of the parts I print @ that slice thickness.