Hairspray for the majority of my needs (cheapest largest can from walmart, just make sure the spray you choose has "Vinyl Necdecanoate Copolymer" in it).
And for everything else that is particularly difficult usually to print with I have found that UHU glue stick is a magic single choice solution.
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Your biggest problem will be removing the part from the glass, not curl anymore. Here is the process I use with Nylon 618 &645, Polycarbonate, High Impact Crystal ABS and even often with plain old ABS.
Clean your glass with a razor blade, then wipe it clean with alcohol.
For all of the materials I just listed EXCEPT plain old ABS, pre-heat your bed to 40c, then with firm but quick movements spread the glue from the UHU stick onto the area that you will be utilizing for your print. Allow this to dry. It should look fairly shiny, not milky, and very even and smooth. Alot like the clear coat on a car. If it is milky you have put too much glue on or not allowed it to dry completely.
1st layer adhesion is critical as it always is, but you will find it far easier to tune this first layer and have it stick by adjusting your bed height adjustment modifier in your slicer of choice. If you print with a 5-10mm skirt or raft I can almost garrentee you'll get zero curl even for very thin large flat objects that span the entire bed.
Yes you print at only 40c for all of those high temp filaments.
To remove your part you have two or three choices. Cause it is going to be very stuck to that glass.
1st choice, good for thicker printed items that have no delicate edges is to keep a meat cleaver by the printer and in a sort of abrupt yet firm and sliding motion "crack" the part free. Generally causes it to fly across the room. Don't swing the thing. at it obviously. Both hands supporting the none ouchie side works nicely. Slide under smoothly but suddenly.
2nd choice, good for very thin items that are very derlicate that you do not wish to introduce warp into. Allow the bed to cool to room temp and release the skirt by sliding the cleaver under the skirts edge all away around. Then reheat to 50-60c, again gently try to slide under the edge of part, it's ok if you make no progress yet. Cool part again to room temp. Generally it will simply fall noff at this point perfectly flat and perfect. If not keep repeating jumping slightly higher (10c each time) and it will come loose.
3rd choice, only good for very thick parts, heat your bed to 120c and slide knife under part and it will come right off.
Often I do not even need to reapply glue for 2 or 3 prints after initial applications. Depends on how much stays stuck to parts when removed.
I find the UHU glue works far far better than the elmers glue stick. Perhaps because the UHU glue stick is not non-toxic and not for kids. So do not eat the glue stick anyone. I hope that I didn't have to say that in present company, but you never know.......Look at my own avatar for example.
He looks like he would love glue stick of any type!
