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As I saw on wiki it's possible to mount the hot end on the ezstruder, so is it possible to mount the ezstruder directly on the platform(There is nothing about that in the manual).
If it's possible why it isn't shown in the manual and how to do it ?

It is possible, however that is more for Cartesian style printers. That cold end is too heavy to put on the platform.

Thanks a lot so the only way is to use a micro extruder !

Yep some high geared small motor might make a light enough extruder for acceptable speeds, but that will also prevent you from doing a multiple head setup.

It seems that prints are better with a direct extruder, I don't really mind to have multiple heads but of course speed is important. if the bowden system gives good prints i think I won't change it but if it isn"t I will plan to change for a direct extruder.
For now I just have to wait after the kit.

You could do the AirStruder setup that a few folks have been playing with. Reducing the length of the Bowden tube drastically improves this.

I've got an EZ Struder in hand and a J-Head in the mail, so I've been weighing out my options as well...

With the carbon fiber arms, I wonder if you could lug around the extruder without a problem? What's the real problem with too much weight, what would actually flex, you know?

The way I picture it, the most detrimental problem is the increased likelyhood of loosing a step or the belt skip/strip. In general I would think the additional weight on the effector is going to going to significantly stress all the parts because it is effectively on a lever as far each stepper motor is concerned, so those force on that mass would to some larger degree flex the rods, wear/twist on the joints, and any smaller differences that would show up in prints such as the effector leaning as it gets accelerated.

I'm curious if putting gooseneck tube with an inner diameter of the outer diameter of the bowden tube would be just as good as shortening the bowden tube. It would get rid of any rigidity issues of the bowden tube setup, although you don't change the other issue which is bowden tube setups require a little more force from the extruder.

Well i'm using jhead mk5 hot ends on a solidoodle 2, it's a direct extruding but of course it isn't a delta printer so the weight is not a problem and we can add a lot of weight without having problems with the motors.
The delta system is way different and, as far I can see, it certainly won't support too much weight.
At least I still haven't received the 3d max yet so I don't really know the quality of the printings with this printer except by viewing pictures and videos on the web and what I saw was a good quality but of course you can't have a good judgment just by watching medias. I hope that what I saw is the quality that we can have after just making good calibrations of the printer and puting good parameters on the slicers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ALKoD72 ... r_embedded
qubd extruder on rostock......I was thinking of doing this at first to help with the learning curve at first then switching to the bowden. On a side note the bowden works just fine on the makerbot, so it should not be an issue on the rostock either....

I've watched a lot of vidéos about the 3d Max and this one too.
It works of course as we can see it, but it's seems that the head is really heavy so it can be a problems for the 3 arms that support the head and also for the motors.

lordbinky wrote:I'm curious if putting gooseneck tube with an inner diameter of the outer diameter of the bowden tube would be just as good as shortening the bowden tube. It would get rid of any rigidity issues of the bowden tube setup, although you don't change the other issue which is bowden tube setups require a little more force from the extruder.

The problem is actually the difference between the ID of the tube and the OD of the filament. If the difference is too great, the filament will essentially zig-zag its way through the tube and add a little more resistance each time it makes contact. My buddy, Glenn did a very scientific investigation and took lots of measurements on how much force it takes to push the filament with different length tubes, and the findings were without question that the shorter the bowden the better.

And of course a direct extrusion will be better !
A lot of people on the web seems to have no problems to print very good quality with the bowden system

Edit:
The problem is that all filaments have a diameter's variation. Due to this it's impossible to have a bowden that have quite the same diameter.
I think we must do with that or change to a mini extruder with the less weight possible, with the fact that we are going to loose some speed.

speaking of filaments has anyone tried the colorfabb stuff yet?? Friend of mine has fallen in love with it and says that it vapor polishes like abs does.
I really dont know much about it, but will be trying out a roll after seeing some of his prints in it.

I was just thinking about that: using the bowden system can make some problems with the hot end because the extruder must push the filament with enough power for the hot end and it's difficult because of the diameter of the ptfe tube compare to the diameter of the filament, but if you use a higher temperature the filament become more fluid inside the hot end and then it don"t need to be pushed with the same power.