Problem with Printer_Radius!

[jonyzdude]

I bought a rostock max and have gotten up to changing the Printer_Radius in order to adjust for the convexity that my printer seems to be having as it stops about 3/4in above the hot plate. For some reason though when I change the Printer_Radius number and run script 4 it doest nothing but return to the same spot weather you adjust the number up or down. Any help would be much appreciated as I have been through this twice and am stuck!

[Jimustanguitar]

I just dialed this setting in with my new firmware (changed laptops, so I decided to start from scratch with the newest version of everything).

Anyway, it seemed like my changes weren't taking hold either. I discovered that you have to reboot the printer after each Arduino upload. So change the value, upload it, reboot printer, and measure again.

Good luck!

[geneb]

The RAMBo reboots after the firmware update is finished.

Just running script #4 won't do you any good. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS.

g.

[edward]

I think what gene is politely trying to say is that you need to re-adjust the end stop screws after every change to a firmware parameter that affects the geometry, i.e., PRINTER_RADIUS, carriage and effector horizontal offsets, etc. If you just change the value in the firmware, but don't make any physical changes to the machine, you will see no effect.

[Jimustanguitar]

I think what gene is politely trying to say is that you need to re-adjust the end stop screws after every change to a firmware parameter that affects the geometry, i.e., PRINTER_RADIUS, carriage and effector horizontal offsets, etc. If you just change the value in the firmware, but don't make any physical changes to the machine, you will see no effect.

Yeah... I'm gonna have to just go ahead and um... disagree with you there.

[img]https://github-camo.global.ssl.fastly.n ... 772e6a7067[/img]

Gene is saying that if you change the firmware, there are other steps to follow with the EEPROM and rebooting to make those firmware settings "stick".

I would highly advise against turning any of the screws after a firmware change. When you're calibrating, you only want to change one variable at a time. Changing a software setting and a physical geometry setting at the same time would just be chasing your tail.

[edward]

Sorry, but maybe we're not on the same page. If you change a firmware parameter and don't check scripts 1,2,3, which will likely require adjustments to the end-stop screws, you won't see any affect when running script #4.

Maybe I should have worded it that way the first time, but my point stands.

[geneb]

Edward's summary is correct.

g.

[Jimustanguitar]

I concur My brain didn't pick up on the context correctly.

The settings are all relative, so changing one definitely affects the others. Going through the whole process each time IS the right way to do it. You can't calibrate the convexity and concavity (are those even words?) without being 100% sure that you're level first.

My brain thought you were saying to change multiple things in one step instead of changing one thing and then checking each step before it before to trying to adjust it again. My bad.

[lordbinky]

Like noticing one of your towers leaned a little, fixing that, changing the printer_radius in firmware while your at it because it was obviously convex/concave, adjust the layer height because that was off too, oh and that side of the glass plate wasn't clipped well to the onyx, I'll just correct that.

Odd how even when you know it's a bad idea, you sometimes do it anyways. Not that I did that or anything... but I did. Also proper tools helped, a $14 dollar precision square was like magic for my build.

[geneb]

Your Jedi Font Tricks are no match for the power of the Empire!

g.

[Smug Stacy]

I think a sentence needs to be added to Page 174 of the RostockMax Assembly guide since I got stuck here as well

Once you've uploaded the new firmware, you'll have to re-calibrate the base of each tower as you did in the previous steps using Scripts 1 through 4. The parameter effects the ratio of nozzle height in each corner position to the nozzle height of the middle, so you wont notice any difference if you simply change it then immediately run G28 then G0 Z0 F3500. It may take a number of iterations to get the center nozzle height nailed down, but it IS worth the hassle. Your first layer quality and plastic adhesion require that the nozzle track across the entire bed as perfectly flat as it can.

....at least I hope that sounds right.

[Smug Stacy]

...erm....edit.... meant "edge" position, not "corner" (circles don't have corners)

[lordbinky]

Circles don't have corners? HAHAHAHA, you and your euclidean geometries...

[Apollyon25]

Hi,

You might want to read my "hello from NZ" post in the welcome new member section.
I detail exactly what you need to do to set printer radius.

Jared

[Smug Stacy]

I'm good thanks. That part is finished.

I'm past that and at the stage where I need to fine tune my e-steps so my prints don't look like shredded wheat.