Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Gotta love a good sleep and a wake up to this. PSA dont mind the top model pic in the background.

what I was trying to print
[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/ScreenShot2013-11-19at93505AM_zpsbb1b99cd.png[/img]

What actually printed OK

[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/IMG_4356_zpsa8e1be45.jpg[/img]

What I woke up to on my heat bed

[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/IMG_4355_zpsa0901bfd.jpg[/img]

Settings were as follows.

ABS
Bed temp- 80
Extruder temp-200 (going to try 230 now)
Printing on a - Nice coat of hairspray
First Layer printed at 200
.3 on the first layer height .2 after
Fill density- .2
Clear Ebay filament

would you say the speed for non print moves is kind of high? [img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/ScreenShot2013-11-19at100537AM_zps4f54a747.png[/img] haven't changed any of this from Gene's guide when I built the printer

You can move at 200mm/s, but what's the point of super fast move speeds when you're printing so slow?

Looks like you just lot bed adhesion.

With a part that has such a small footprint, I would either recommend a brim, raft, or using glue or abs juice

More of that desktop would be great!

foshon wrote:More of that desktop would be great!

I agree. Inquiring minds want to know!

cope413 wrote:You can move at 200mm/s, but what's the point of super fast move speeds when you're printing so slow?

Looks like you just lot bed adhesion.

With a part that has such a small footprint, I would either recommend a brim, raft, or using glue or abs juice

how do you apply the glue to the bed? any vids? an its moving at 200 because i believe thats the setting what should i set those presences up as Cope413? that could be why my prints are so good.

Fellas I will get on that.

Take a glue stick - -I like the Scotch Permanent glue sticks, UHU is also good. Stay away from the standard elmer's stuff for best results...

Just apply a thin, even layer to the area you'll be printing on. I like to make lines right next to each other - kind of like if you were mowing a lawn.

Then heat the bed. When the bed gets to temp - 80-85C - the glue should be dry and ready to print.

For a brim...

In Slic3r

Print Settings -> Skirt and Brim -> Brim Width.
I'd say 3-5mm would be plenty for that part.

You'd need to use Cura for a raft, but that's not necessary.

If you are happy with the print results, I'd keep those settings, and bump your movement down to 100-130, and I'd bet you'll be successful.

I use purple to clear Elmers washable school glue and it works really great, dunno whatcha talking about

I will give it a shot.....as promised
[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/ScreenShot2013-11-24at113333PM_zpsaa2e27ea.png[/img]

Nylocke wrote:I use purple to clear Elmers washable school glue and it works really great, dunno whatcha talking about

Give the Elmers school glue a skip and find yourself some glue called UHU, comes in a yellow glue stick. The nice thing about the UHU in comparison to the elmers is that it provides much better adhesion even with bed temps as low as 30c.

For printing with Nylon 618 or 645 I use a bed temp of 30c and find that I have almost zero edge curl and never have a problem with adhesion. The same very low bed temp works really well with polycarb (my absolute fav filament BTW, for many various reasons). I find if I start creeping the temps up the glue starts to become softer and much more likely to curl.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q= ... 4497883138

This is the stick I am referring to. Be sure to let it dry completely before printing and also spread it fairly thin. It should appear to be similar in appearance to clear coat.

Flateric wrote:

Nylocke wrote:I use purple to clear Elmers washable school glue and it works really great, dunno whatcha talking about

Give the Elmers school glue a skip and find yourself some glue called UHU, comes in a yellow glue stick. The nice thing about the UHU in comparison to the elmers is that it provides much better adhesion even with bed temps as low as 30c.

For printing with Nylon 618 or 645 I use a bed temp of 30c and find that I have almost zero edge curl and never have a problem with adhesion. The same very low bed temp works really well with polycarb (my absolute fav filament BTW, for many various reasons). I find if I start creeping the temps up the glue starts to become softer and much more likely to curl.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=i&rct=j&q= ... 4497883138

This is the stick I am referring to. Be sure to let it dry completely before printing and also spread it fairly thin. It should appear to be similar in appearance to clear coat.

Hey Flatty, where do you get your polycarb and could you give me some hints as to temps etc for using it?

Imma stick with my glue for now, I'm eventually switching to an ultimaker with a non heated acrylic bed soon anyway, so it won't matter much. No more ABS for this guy, at least for a lil

I've been having some bed adhesion problems with a new spool of ABS (Octave white). So I ordered some UHU to give it a try. Hopefully this is the same stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PM ... UTF8&psc=1

dpmacri wrote:I've been having some bed adhesion problems with a new spool of ABS (Octave white). So I ordered some UHU to give it a try. Hopefully this is the same stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PM ... UTF8&psc=1

That's the one I use, it should be fine.

ok cool thanks flateric ill give the UHU a try seems there are a few different types colors or plain probably will go with the one from amazon that dpmacri ordered.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

Flateric wrote:

Nylocke wrote:I use purple to clear Elmers washable school glue and it works really great, dunno whatcha talking about

For printing with Nylon 618 or 645 I use a bed temp of 30c and find that I have almost zero edge curl and never have a problem with adhesion. The same very low bed temp works really well with polycarb (my absolute fav filament BTW, for many various reasons). I find if I start creeping the temps up the glue starts to become softer and much more likely to curl.

Hey Flatty, where do you get your polycarb and could you give me some hints as to temps etc for using it?

+1! I've been testing with some PC filament I got from eBay (Chinese seller), but the layer adhesion sucks (tested at 260C-290C). I'd love to get the PC working, but at the moment it's a nonstarter for me.

- Karl

how is it removing prints from the bed with the uhu, compared to abs juice?

so frustrating wast attempting this [img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/ScreenShot2013-12-09at103102PM_zps7ad93615.png[/img]

print when about an 8th of the way through this starts.....

[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/photo2_zpsc601a7c8.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm22/tc3jg/photo1_zps79078b61.jpg[/img]


Now nothing is coming from the nozzle like its clogged sooooo frustrating. I guess what really sucks is once its going you can't do anything to stop it.

Do you have a PEEK fan installed? What temperature & material are you using?

From the pics, it looks like you're using PLA and printing it too cold or too fast.

g.

I would assume there is some clog happening in the nozzle. If you lower the motor current for the extruder it should minimize the amount of filament that it 'chews' through when the filament isn't flowing as fast as it expects (it will instead 'spring' backward and release the pressure). When it 'chews' through the filament, it leaves a groove where the drive wheel is; Once that groove is there, the drive gear will have nothing to grip and the filament will no longer extrude.

Although this will help it avoid 'chewing' through the filament, it won't fix your problem altogether. Your main issue is solving the clog. A filament duster will help keep any dust that has settled on the filament roll from getting into the nozzle. The quality of your filament plays a factor. If you have picked up something cheap then it's possible it won't be the proper diameter the whole way through, or that contaminants may have been introduced. PEEK fan is a must with these nozzles, especially when using retraction. Print too fast and the nozzle will gain more pressure than it releases, causing your extruder to either 'rewind' or dig a hole through the filament.

It could also be something caused by the hotend. The stock hotend uses a PTFE liner inside, but if you have heated the nozzle up too strongly at one point then the PTFE liner may have constricted to the point where filament won't pass through it easily. You should be able to pull the PTFE liner out just by unscrewing the brass tip and pulling it out. The part of the PTFE that inserts into the brass tip is most likely where you will find the constriction, a little is to be expected. What's important is that you are still able to push a piece of filament through the tube without using force.

I think he has all of us fooled and has figured out how to print sponges

Cope you jokester . that looks like he's trying to print with really wet nylon, from my experience with really wet nylon.... it may work as a sponge though... maybe....

cope413 wrote:I think he has all of us fooled and has figured out how to print sponges

I thought they were a pair of slippers.

I see... how diabolic.

hey its abs guys and yes lol it would seem i have the sponge tech down
I dont have a peek fan i bought one but then burned it out as i tried to secure it via pressure between the extruder mounts and that was it. Ill get another and try again also could be my ebay filament too i guess.

tc3jg wrote:hey its abs guys and yes lol it would seem i have the sponge tech down
I dont have a peek fan i bought one but then burned it out as i tried to secure it via pressure between the extruder mounts and that was it. Ill get another and try again also could be my ebay filament too i guess.

Are you sure your burned it out? I squished my PEEK fan as well and it bent the frame into an oval shape. The frame was then grinding on the fan so it couldn't turn. I ended up fixing it by rotating it so the effector mount would squish it the other way back into a circle. Just don't tighten it up too much.