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Hi! New to 3D Printing + Orion here...

The ORIONABS.INI file as downloaded from the quickstart guide does not have "support material" selected in Slic3r. How should one handle support materials?
What settings do you use?
What (vertical) hole diameters require support?

Thanks!

int2str, support is only required if you're printing a part that would require it due to overhangs, etc. Holes typically don't require support because of how they're printed.

If you have a pic of the model you're trying to print I can tell if you need to add support or not.

BTW, your nick is missing a parameter.

g.

Man would I love a detailed guide on this subject

Most parts do not need support.
Just try it without and see what happens. You probably will be surprised at what overhangs and bridges in a part will print fine without support.

Welcome to the rabbit hole

and if I do want to use support, what should the settings be?

Supports are determined by part geometry and they are different every time. Let alone the differences in slicers, I use Kisslicer, and have been very happy with the results when using support. I really like the preview of part and paths it generates. And being able to check tool paths one by one gives you the ability to see where support might be needed. I recently sliced an object at least a dozen times before I got the support I liked.

and you can pick and choose the parts that need support?

Not sure I understand the If you mean, can you put support on any part, than yes. If you mean you have a pro version and have multiple parts on the bed, than I'm not sure? I don't usually print more than one object at a time. The support function in Kisslicer is a tab that allows you to add grid(aka rafts), pillars and skirts. And a slider that allows coarse to ultra fine. A seperate slider that determines support by surface angle. There are a couple of other controls you will figure out. Just hover over them and you will get a pop up explaining their function. This is part of the fun learning how to control the variables with three(or more) different pieces of software to get that Yoda just so

I mean, like can I just simply click on one overhang that I want supported, because if I do it at 45 degrees or whatever I get tons of supports and they kinda get in the way and waste time, does that make sense?

I get what you mean now. Tough to write code for that I would think? MeshMixer has support for this kind of thing. I haven't played with it in awhile, I think it might be what you're looking for http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130924- ... nting.html
Very specific support should probably be included in your modeling work flow. I do like the idea of picking a spot on a model and having it build support from there. I would draft a proposal to your favorite slicer's author and see if it gets traction. You never know?

-man, I hope this spam thing gets fixed soon Tough to find legit posts

I had assumed that that's how it was, it seemed illogical to me for it to be any other way, i am only using the slicer that comes with repetier for now. Any hints or tips on speed/width/pattern spacing/interface/etc settings for thin walled tallpart to printed with?

Do you have a pic?

see if you can grab this stl

I'll be honest, with a part like this, I would make it in two pieces. I would remove the large holes stand-off so you have a flat orientable surface to put on the print bed. Then design it so the large hole stand-off (printed separately) slides in and can be glued. No support necessary. Thin walls like this, I have lately been setting a lot of perimeter loops so you don't get little tiny infill movements from the hotend. IMO It's better if the plastic goes down as several loops, rather than an inner and outer wall that the slicer tries to fill the space between with zig-zag infill. I hope that explanation is as clear as mud
The only other thing I would caution is maybe adding a brim or raft so the corners don't curl on you. If you are printing ABS? The rest of your settings are hard to nail down, too many variables. My typical: ABS-hotend 230C, heated bed-80C(augmented with a ceramic heater, switching to a radiant soon, keeping print area warm), Speed- first layer-30 then 100-150(?personal choice) beyond that gets slicer specific. Good luck Post a pic when you do it.

Batteau62 wrote:I'll be honest, with a part like this, I would make it in two pieces. I would remove the large holes stand-off so you have a flat orientable surface to put on the print bed. Then design it so the large hole stand-off (printed separately) slides in and can be glued. No support necessary. Thin walls like this, I have lately been setting a lot of perimeter loops so you don't get little tiny infill movements from the hotend. IMO It's better if the plastic goes down as several loops, rather than an inner and outer wall that the slicer tries to fill the space between with zig-zag infill. I hope that explanation is as clear as mud
The only other thing I would caution is maybe adding a brim or raft so the corners don't curl on you. If you are printing ABS? The rest of your settings are hard to nail down, too many variables. My typical: ABS-hotend 230C, heated bed-80C(augmented with a ceramic heater, switching to a radiant soon, keeping print area warm), Speed- first layer-30 then 100-150(?personal choice) beyond that gets slicer specific. Good luck Post a pic when you do it.

This part is engineered to be one piece, I can't tkae it apart and glue it back together without losing all of its strength, can you explain the perimeter loops and how to set them up in slic3r?

I don't use slic3r anymore, but I think if you increase the "Perimeters(minimum)" in Vertical shells, it will do what I'm talking about. On your part, 5 should work? I encourage you to look at Kisslicer, if only for the graphical UI where you have the ability to check tool paths
I agree with the strength issue of changing the part to a point. I think it's a question of getting a clean print versus a little re-design. That's the beauty of being able to print our own parts. We can try prototypes, if they don't work, not too much is lost and you go back to the original. I wish you success

just realized we totally highjacked this thread. Sorry int2str

Meshmixer is a program that will let you pick and choose a bit with your supports, I fiddled around with it yesterday and had decent results. I also finally got sick of slic3r's support generator and made the supports myself in autodesk inventor, that came out decently as well. Just two ideas to throw out there, here is meshmixer support tutorial video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFTyTV3wwsE

i dl that file.. not what i thought it was going to be with a name like that!

Meshmixer or the STL?

TFMike wrote:Meshmixer or the STL?

Knee Upper Leg Female(11-15-13).STL