Is extruder ABS dust normal?

[mrbi11]

My extruder fills up with abs dust so fast i took the cover off so it would not jam.
Pictured is about half hours worth.

Without the cover the filament dust falls on the print, which i solved with an
abs particle collection device, a piece of paper taped to the bottom of the extruder.

I searched the forum, and found no one commenting. Basically my extruder would not work
with the cover on for a big print.

I have calibrated the extruder via manual/triffid's instructions, 200 mm is within 1%.

Is this dust normal?
If not is it my filament?
Or is my extruder malfunctioning or out of adjustment?
I made no adjustments from how it arrived.

(I did have a BIG problem with the plastic and aluminum pieces being way out of alignment, such that filament would not go through at all.
It is resolved and filament does travel easily through the entire path with the extruder spring lever opened.)

[dpmacri]

Something's not right Make sure the hobbed gear is aligned nicely with the smooth bearing. I've been running my printer for about 3 months and haven't had ANY shavings show up in the extruder like your picture.

[bubbasnow]

looks like the gear is grinding it off, this happens to me when when i try to force too much material out of the hotend for the temperature its set it, or nozzle that is installed. are you hearing a grinding noise at all?

[mrbi11]

Here are close ups of the filament and drive wheel

[geneb]

The hobb is eating your filament because there's too much back-pressure on it. That can be caused by feeding too fast for the temp or a clogged or partially clogged nozzle.

g.

[mrbi11]

THANKYOU!

My filament says 220 to 260, i am set at 235 first layer and 230 after.
Will try a higher setting.

Also, will google for unclogging instructions.

[geneb]

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES RUN THE STOCK HOT END AT MORE THAN 240C! YOU WILL DESTROY THE PEEK SECTION.

g.

[mrbi11]

Ok, thanks.
I think i read that somewhere.
I'm kind of amazed the thermistors are that accurate without a calibration.

First I'm trying to clean out the tip, which is a lot harder than i expected.
That seems the most likely culprit.

[jmick]

I run ABS at 235 1st layer and 225 thereafter using kapton with acetone/slurry mis painted on and have not problems. No bed heat for 1st layer and then 60c for remainder of the part. I am having problems with the fill around hole circles having gaps in them. The infill leaves the gap holes around the inside of the circle walls. If anyone else has had this problem I would appreciate a tip.

[mrbi11]

Yes I do, see pic. IMHO, it is the slicr program putting in insufficient fill in gcode, not a printer hardware issue.

You might want to open a new topic so people can see a title related to your question.
good luck.

[Lochemage]

As the extruder is fed through the bowden tube, it gains back pressure because the filament is compressing inside the tube. To relieve this pressure, the plastic needs to extrude from the nozzle fast enough. If that pressure isn't relieved, your motor will either skip steps (and actually spin backwards from the spring pressure of the filament), or it will grind right through the filament. Which one it does is based on the amount of back pressure, and the amount of current supplied to the motor.

A couple of things you can try to reduce the grinding, you will have to experiment to get the best settings:

- Increase the temperature you are extruding with (not over 240c unless you are using an all metal hotend).
- Reduce the amount of current (If you are using Repetier firmware, then this is a setting right in the firmware) supplied to your extruder motor.
- Reduce the feed rate of your extruder (e.g. slow the print speed).
- Clean out your nozzle and make sure there are no clogs.
- Ensure you are using some form if filament duster to keep your filament dust free as it feeds into your extruder.

The default Repetier firmware has a setting of 225 motor current going to the extruder which I found was too high, I ended up with 185 and that seems to work nicely. A print rate of about 100 mm/sec is the maximum amount but I would recommend at least half that for any kind of decent print result. I used 240c as a temp for a little while but after a little experimenting, 230 gives me a lot better results especially when printing very small objects. I would recommend you use these as a starting point and go from there.

[mrbi11]

I think I found it.
New nozzle, no change. Cant run hotter.

I noticed the red lever twisted slightly as it opened, and found the screw SLIGHTLY loose.
Maybe a full turn.

Seems improved. Idler well centered now.

[foshon]

For all the fuzz you see accumulate in the shield, there is more built up in the grooves of the feed wheel. For me, the problem slowly builds from the first slip, gradually clogging all the grooves. I agree completely with Lochemage as to the resolution and would only add the longer it goes on without cleaning the grooves out the worse it will get.

[mrbi11]

good advice, thanks.

[mrbi11]

The Automatic Abs Dust Are Denial System. (Top secret).

20131217_150736.jpg (5.67 KiB) Viewed 12108 times

just laugh. You know you want to.

[Eaglezsoar]

The Automatic Abs Dust Are Denial System. (Top secret).

20131217_150736.jpg

just laugh. You know you want to.

I can certainly see why you want it to be Top Secret!

[mrbi11]

I finally got an e3d all metal head, and it fixed my dust problem, which i did not expect.

the e3d uses a 40 watt heater.

the seeme head uses 2 3 watt resistors, so sounds pretty wimpy,
but they are 6.8 ohns, which at 12 volts is 20 watts (into a 3 watt resistor! Bad seeme!)
So 2x is 40 watts, just like e3d.

But 20 watts is just enough to hold 230 degrees (which takes 12 to 15 watts by my measurements) and a tiny bit left over to heart abs.
So it LOOK like it is working, but it isnt.
Symptoms, dust, really slow printing.