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I have thin edge, and it is not straight, instead of 180", it is like 160".
When slic3r generate the wall, it does one at a time, therefore, leaving the gap in the middle. See pictures.

1. How can I tell slic3r to draw the wall in a single path/line?
2. How can I tell slic3r to generate 2 layers for the wall so it leaves no gap?

It is on ABS, I am following all the setting from the default. I did change the temp of ABS to 225, base 105.

can you post the comment section from the slicer gcode file here please (it has all of the configuration parameters listed). Let's see what you did first, then maybe we can help "fill in the gaps".

cheers,
Michael

Another issue I found is that the base is not flat, one corner curves up? How do I fix that?

; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC2 on 2014-01-17 at 14:34:46

; layer_height = .2
; perimeters = 1
; top_solid_layers = 5
; bottom_solid_layers = 5
; fill_density = .2
; perimeter_speed = 30
; infill_speed = 30
; travel_speed = 200
; nozzle_diameter = .5
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; extrusion_multiplier = 1.0
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.60mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.60mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.60mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.60mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.60mm

G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
M190 S90 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S218 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
M109 S218 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion
G1 Z0.350 F12000.000
G1 F4800.000 E-7.00000
G1 Z0.550 F12000.000
G92 E0
G1 X2.164 Y-4.799 F12000.000
G1 Z0.350 F12000.000
G1 E7.10000 F4800.000
G1 X3.324 Y-4.649 E7.19847 F540.000
G1 X4.404 Y-4.229 E7.29602
G1 X5.354 Y-3.559 E7.39389

Bottom - especially corner - warping is due to the print lifting from the bed. The easiest fix for that is to print on a heated bed at least 100°C. I use hairspray on borosilicate glass and "it ain't coming off" until the bed completely cools - and even then I have to pry the parts up! Remember, even at 90° like you have, just a few centimeters from the middle hot zone will be much cooler unless you have a heat dissipator plate. So, bumping up to 100-110° will help keep the outer reaches a little hotter. Also, DO NOT use a part fan on the first 5(isn) layers. Then, use a fan on the part to cool the thin cross sections to keep them from sagging. Do not point the fan at the heated bed - you are trying to keep that hot!

Looking at your gcode:

; layer_height = .2
; perimeters = 1 bump this up to at least 2 maybe 3 depending on the thickness of the thin sections.
; top_solid_layers = 5 this seems a little high, perhaps lower it to 3. Shouldn't hurt anything but probably not needed
; bottom_solid_layers = 5
; fill_density = .2 a higher fill density, even 100%, for a part with this type of geometry might give better results
; perimeter_speed = 30
; infill_speed = 30
; travel_speed = 200
; nozzle_diameter = .5
; filament_diameter = 1.75
; extrusion_multiplier = 1.0
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.60mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.60mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.60mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.60mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.60mm

You might check that your STL file is "good" at that intersection too. I'm happy to take a look if you want to post or email it.

I attached the file I am printing. Having trouble removing the gap at the intersection in slicer.
Thank you

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v12 ... 2761-3.jpg[/img]

See the dimension I marked - at .49mm thickness here, you will not be able to print this with a .5mm nozzle. You'd have to drop down to a .35mm and even then, you likely will not get a good print. Can you redesign that feature?

I think I found the issue for the uneven base and crack, it is the fan. Can I turn the fan off during print? How do I do that?

Also, when the nozzle jump from one place to another without any connection, how can I reduce the amount of remnant threads?

mhackney wrote:[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s5/v12 ... 2761-3.jpg[/img]

See the dimension I marked - at .49mm thickness here, you will not be able to print this with a .5mm nozzle. You'd have to drop down to a .35mm and even then, you likely will not get a good print. Can you redesign that feature?

ahgu,

Please read the Slic3r manual. It tells you exactly where to enable the fan. You have lots of control.

That stringing can be corrected with retract and/or wipe - again, read the docs. Not trying to be a pain but it really is the best place to start.

cheers,
Michael

Regarding retraction, Sorry for my ignorance, I looked at the document but still don't know what to do. Do you have some recommended setting for Delta? Or what number should I change to optimize.


I have
Nozzle diameter: 0.5mm
extruder offeset 0, 0

Retraction
length 7.0 , seems big, but that is the default.
LIft Z 0.2
speed: 30 , I lower the speed, slower better?
Extra length on restart 0.1
Min Travel after retraction, 3mm
Retract on layer change yes , was no by default,
Wipe while retracting yes, was no by default

Retraction when tool is disabled:
length 10
Extra length on restart 0

Sure:

Printer Settings-Extruder 1: in the Retraction panel: set length to 5mm and lift to 1mm speed to 100mm; extra length to 0; minimum travel to 3mm leave check boxes unchecked for now. Later, you can play with Wipe while retracting.

Start with speeds at 15mm/s for that part.

that should get you in the ballpark.

cheers,
Michael

What type of hair spray do you use? I bought a Sasson hair spray, applies much easier than the glue stick, the I think it reacts with the ABS and the bottom 2 layers shrinks a lot. Does it happen to you?
What brand/type of hair spray do you use?

I use Herbal Essence and I don't have any problems wit the bottom layers doing anything but sticking properly.

cheers,
Michael

Aqua Net unscented works good also.

Herbal Essence
aqua net

Can you guys give me the exact model on amazon? (url) There are several variations.

thanks you

ahgu wrote:Herbal Essence
aqua net

Can you guys give me the exact model on amazon? (url) There are several variations.

thanks you

http://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Net-Unscente ... +hairspray
http://www.amazon.com/Herbal-Essences-S ... +hairspray

Have you guys tried Kapton tape? I want to give it a try. Maybe hoping to find one similar to the glass plate, rather than the tape.

ahgu wrote:Have you guys tried Kapton tape? I want to give it a try. Maybe hoping to find one similar to the glass plate, rather than the tape.

I have several rolls of Kapton, and several of PET tape, and I use hairspray pretty much exclusively.
Kapton in particular is a pain to apply and adheres less well than any of the glues.

I use Garnier Fructise extreme hold, but I'd guess any unscented strong hold hairspray would probably work.

I had good look with UHU glue sticks also

Both have the nice property of being water solvable for cleanup.
If your printing ABS then ABS juice is probably the best glue, but you'll never get the glass plate clean again.

I have used the aqua net and the Garnier Fructise extreme hold and both work well.

For Garnier Fructise it must be a 5 on their hold scale, I bought some that was only a 4 and it didn't hold well.

There have been some reports on the MB forums of using to much Garnier Fructise extreme hold with large ABS pieces actually chipping the glass so don't go overboard on it.

For a while, I printed on a layer of kapton tape with PLA, unheated bed (piece of acrylic), and it worked very well. If I remember correctly, the PLA didn't warp at all, like it did with my cheapo blue painters tape.