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I believe my machine is close to being square... (never close enough)

However, I found it difficult to measure distances between towers, as they are square extrudings, but not oriented in the same direction.
I read here and there that some of you guys use squaring tools.

What are these tools, and how do you use them ?
Do you guys have any trick to share with us all on how to make, find, use a squaring tool ?
And even more interresting, how do you use them on a RostockMax ?

If you move your machine, would you recheck the towers ? If you had to re-adjust them, would you remove the top of the machine ? Would you remove the ONYX ?

Thank you for sharing any link or info about this.

These are the tower alignment clamps I used. They do a pretty good job.

My MAX has smoked Lexan for the top and bottom plates (ordered in Dec '12), and I'm not sure the laser cutting is as accurate as it should be. I can never, through any means, get all three of the towers to rest against the insides of the plates as they should. There's always one or two towers that are just a tiny fraction of an inch off. Maybe they fixed that problem or perhaps the Melamine plates are better.

Yep, I printed and used the clamps recently, and they are of great use !

My towers are well adjusted now... however, I still did not manage to get the print quality I used to have before re-squarring !!

That is somehow embarassing.

I received everything needed to build my magnetic arms, so, before I perform further in calibration, I'll assemble and install these.

That's a pity I need my printer for making the parts to assemble.

I used a precision square I got from mcmaster-carr.

I try get my towers as square to the base (not the build plate) as I can. They always seems to shift after I finish tightening up though...the bastards.

lordbinky wrote:I used a precision square I got from mcmaster-carr.

I try get my towers as square to the base (not the build plate) as I can. They always seems to shift after I finish tightening up though...the bastards.

Why not to the build plate, then ?

I made my own "precision" square from a sheet of plastic I had in my garage. I made it in a triangle shape, with big dimensions, to better check the arms in the distance, and with a notch in the square corner, so that I can use it even when my clamps are installed.
Ok, it's not as precise as the one you got, but I believe I could not really see much difference anyway.

enggmaug wrote:

lordbinky wrote:I used a precision square I got from mcmaster-carr.

I try get my towers as square to the base (not the build plate) as I can. They always seems to shift after I finish tightening up though...the bastards.

Why not to the build plate, then ?

I made my own "precision" square from a sheet of plastic I had in my garage. I made it in a triangle shape, with big dimensions, to better check the arms in the distance, and with a notch in the square corner, so that I can use it even when my clamps are installed.
Ok, it's not as precise as the one you got, but I believe I could not really see much difference anyway.

the idea behind squaring to the base, is because you might move your bed. when you calibrate your lengths it will alight the print layers then to the bed.

I guess I don't agree with some of what is said here. Here is a link to an earlier thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... tep#p12329. In that thread there is another link that takes you to a thread where I post photos of a print with a very large footprint.

IMHO. YMMV.

Bill

Bill Havins wrote:I guess I don't agree with some of what is said here. Here is a link to an earlier thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... tep#p12329. In that thread there is another link that takes you to a thread where I post photos of a print with a very large footprint.

IMHO. YMMV.

Bill

Bill, I think this is what I was running into on my Issue
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=3950

I didn't even need any kind of gauge to tell my Plumb was off. I think I found the culprit that was causing the majority of the issues, though I did not take it as far as you describe. I have yet to put my Build surface on, but when I do, I will work to square everything to that too.

Thank you for your further explanation, If I am not satisfied with my prints, I at least have a target to shoot for.

Cheers!

The build surface can change size and rotation according to the PCB heater's tendency to warp, not to mention that this can drift a little as the bed heats, so if I align the towers against the bed at one temperature I might have to loosen them and do them all over if I change the temperature. Therefore I prefer to square the towers against the top and bottom "plates." They never move, so the calibration starting point is always as good as it was the day I aligned the Max. If I change the temperature of the build surface, I might have to relevel it, but I'm starting from the same point each time without having to loosen any tower screws.

An exception to this would be if you print in PLA and never use bed heat. In that case I don't think it would matter whether the towers were squared to the bottom plate or the build surface.

Bill Havins wrote:I guess I don't agree with some of what is said here. Here is a link to an earlier thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... tep#p12329. In that thread there is another link that takes you to a thread where I post photos of a print with a very large footprint.

IMHO. YMMV.

Bill

that's interresting !! thanks for the link.

As for me, I prefer to square to the bed, while the bed is hot. It seems to me to make more sense than to square to the building plate. But I could be wrong.