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What should I look into here?

The Rostock was printing off of the sdcard, maybe thirty layers in when it stopped printing. I was in the other room, and when I came back I found it frozen.

System is off, and switching doesn't do anything. Plugging in the USB to the Rambo doesn't seem to turn anything on, if it should. Everything seems dead.

How/Should I look into the power supply? How best to do this -- the thing is so integrated into the body, I am extremely dismayed at the thought of taking it out.

Edit: I can see the power supply is on, the fan is turning, and I am able to get some 12V readings from the black and yellow wires... so I guess the RAMBo is dead? 15 A fuse looks to be fine...

Do you have a multimeter to measure the voltage coming into the Rambo card?
You should measure 12V on the yellow wires coming into the Rambo. Measure between yellow and black, yellow being positive.
If there are no voltages and the supply is plugged in, you have a bad power supply.

If that doesn't work, check your fuses again, pop them out and check them with a multimeter just to be 100%, you don't want to chase imaginary problems.

If that checks out ok, then (If your connectors are all labeled properly) go ahead and unplug all of the connectors, power up and see if you get anything.

If you STILL don't get anything, (please unplug it from the wall) remove the rest of the wires (keep them labeled or organized) and try to connect the board (put the power jumper back to USB if you changed it) to your computer with the USB and see if you can get any kind of response.

I was able to get 12V on the yellow and black at the connection to rambo, but the green status indicator was still off.

Lordblinky, i will check fuse again and remove wires... But i have rambo v1.2 and i think it is only external powered...

kittka wrote:I was able to get 12V on the yellow and black at the connection to rambo, but the green status indicator was still off.

Lordblinky, i will check fuse again and remove wires... But i have rambo v1.2 and i think it is only external powered...

There are three fuses on the Rambo, check each one for continuity.

Eaglezsoar wrote: There are three fuses on the Rambo, check each one for continuity.

I only see the easy 15A one... and the reprap wiki doesn't identify.

I guess I don't know what I am looking for for the other two?

Are these the other fuses? If so, the top one appears to be blown (not reading continuity).

[img]http://i.imgur.com/jlzUkbE.jpg[/img]

Yes, those two little suckers are the other two fuses. Grab a pair of needle nose pliers and pull them out. There's some links in a couple other threads for replacements and discussion of using slightly higher amperage fuses.

edit: A bit slow on the uptake there.. I see you already tested them... Oh well.. Problem Identified *high five*

Hah! 'Slow on the uptake' -- you guys saved me massive grief. Thanks to you and Eagleszoar again! Now just hoping I can find these suckers without a week downtime...

The original 5A fuse is
LittleFuse 0451005.NRL

The 10A version is
LittleFuse 0451010.NRL Mouser Electronics The 10 Amp is recommended.

They're both ~$1.50-$2 a piece in small quantities.

kittka wrote:Hah! 'Slow on the uptake' -- you guys saved me massive grief. Thanks to you and Eagleszoar again! Now just hoping I can find these suckers without a week downtime...

While you wait, try to find out what caused it to pop. I don't remember which fuse goes to which connectors on the little ones, but if I were to guess, I would say the thermistor or heating resistor shorted. The heat + metal + movement on the hotend makes for a troublesome area. You need to inspect the wires,connections, and your tape insulation on the hotend carefully, it has happened a few times that the issue is intermittent and eats a few more fuses before becoming obvious.

Oh and Sheeeesh! Way to spoil them Carl. Just give them the info without forcing them to thread hunt .

lordbinky wrote:Oh and Sheeeesh! Way to spoil them Carl. Just give them the info without forcing them to thread hunt .

Service with a

lordbinky wrote:While you wait, try to find out what caused it to pop. I don't remember which fuse goes to which connectors on the little ones, but if I were to guess, I would say the thermistor or heating resistor shorted. The heat + metal + movement on the hotend makes for a troublesome area. You need to inspect the wires,connections, and your tape insulation on the hotend carefully, it has happened a few times that the issue is intermittent and eats a few more fuses before becoming obvious.

blade fuse is bed, top LF is extruders/fan connectors, bottom LF is steppers.. cant remember what else right now

Well, I've checked the heated bed, extruder heater, and thermistor circuits, and couldn't find any issue there. One possibility -- the wire extension for this print (was a large print going out towards edges) may have jostled the thermistor connection but seems like unless it was very unlucky should have simply shorted and then found a fault.

So I've ordered the Littelfuse NANO 10A I found elsewhere in the forum (I actually searched before Eaglezsoar platter service!).

But schedule wise, unfortunately, the combination of shipping time and other commitments means I won't be able to repair until mid-late February. And I had hoped to have this running for my companies Engineer's Week competition (heh heh). And that week is 24/7 developement, no time to repair tools. So I thought I'd share my quickie Advance Auto Store solution.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/ILpZYma.jpg[/img]

It's working! I expect a fuse is a fuse if the amp rating is comparable. Anyway it was enough to get it running and verify the fuse can help solve. As for the original problem, I'm not sure. Perhaps running the Bed at 70C and the extruder at 205C is too much?

In anycase, thanks to all for the help. I would have never figured out the three fuses.

i can run my bed at 100c and 230c no issues. it was only when i added a layer fan that draws .9amps did i blow the 5amp fuse. upgraded to the 10amp and all is well

kittka wrote:It's working! I expect a fuse is a fuse if the amp rating is comparable.

Pretty much unless it's a slow blow fuse.