Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

any body think that if I use an ethernet cable to run power to the hot end would be a bad idea? if I tie 4 and 4 together for power and ground?
Just looking to tidy everything up. Want to run 2 Cat 5 cables for power and all else to the effector.

Cheers!

neurascenic wrote:any body think that if I use an ethernet cable to run power to the hot end would be a bad idea? if I tie 4 and 4 together for power and ground?
Just looking to tidy everything up. Want to run 2 Cat 5 cables for power and all else to the effector.

Cheers!

That should work fine but I would use the stranded type over the solid conductors because the stranded is much more flexable. Be sure to use the 4 conductors as the supply
and the other 4 for the return and resist the temptation to use a pair for something else.

Use stranded wire. Solid core doesn't flex well, and on a moving platform like the hot-end it's not ideal.

I actually wired up my hot-end with this connector http://makerhive.proboards.com/thread/1 ... otend-plug and used Cat5 because I didn't have anything else laying around, and the LED's would flash and the thermistor would fault... Definitely use stranded wire on anything that moves.

Jimustanguitar wrote:Use stranded wire. Solid core doesn't flex well, and on a moving platform like the hot-end it's not ideal.

I actually wired up my hot-end with this connector http://makerhive.proboards.com/thread/1 ... otend-plug and used Cat5 because I didn't have anything else laying around, and the LED's would flash and the thermistor would fault... Definitely use stranded wire on anything that moves.

That is one interesting connector. If he could make one that would work with the Seemecnc, the JHead, and the E3D he could probably move a lot of them as long as the price
isn't astronomical.

Works with J-Head as is, just a requires a touch of sandpaper.

Not sure about how E3D mounts.

Twisted... noted! Thanks!


WOW! that is a clean way of doing it. Does he have them for sale? If so, or nearly so, I would be thrilled to tidy things up like that!

Jimustanguitar wrote:Use stranded wire. Solid core doesn't flex well, and on a moving platform like the hot-end it's not ideal.

I actually wired up my hot-end with this connector http://makerhive.proboards.com/thread/1 ... otend-plug and used Cat5 because I didn't have anything else laying around, and the LED's would flash and the thermistor would fault... Definitely use stranded wire on anything that moves.

Oh crap, another forum to monitor. Not. Can't keep up!!! Wah!

I wired my hot end up with cat 5 cable, twisted a pair for the actual hot end then used singe wires for the peek fan, 1watt led ring, and thermistor. Been up and running since October of 2013 with no troubles with electronics.

AndThenSome09 wrote:I wired my hot end up with cat 5 cable, twisted a pair for the actual hot end then used singe wires for the peek fan, 1watt led ring, and thermistor. Been up and running since October of 2013 with no troubles with electronics.

Very nice... fewer wires than I was expecting! I was planning to twist four pairs, and dedicate one cat5 to the hot end, and another for the frills.

Are you using the E3D hot end yet? (Suppose I could look it up somewhere) Just wondering if only two wires would allow enough current to power the extra temps being sought when using the E3D?

I have the V5 E3D hot end and 2 twisted together seems to be enough, I'm not having any trouble, but I'm not an electrician or anything, I do remember asking the same question when I was building mine and everyone said it should be fine, so far it has been.

Cat5 wires (24 gauge) are rated for around 0.5A per conductor. So, four each for power and ground would give you 2A. Hot ends are usually 40W, or 3.3A at 12V, which given that the Cat5 is swinging in air rather than installed in a wall will be fine. Using two each for power and ground will double the heating, which is probably OK. That leaves you two twisted pairs for other stuff.

A nice thing about cat5 cable is that it is designed for very low cross-talk between the pairs, which could help keep the hot end's high power pulses from messing with the thermistor's signal. For that to work, however, each source and return must use the same pair. This means, for example, you could take two pairs for the hot end, with one from each pair for power and one for ground (i.e. don't use one pair for power and one for ground). Then, use one of the remaining pairs for the fan, and the other pair for the thermistor.

Having the hot end power pairs be separate, but sharing one ground between the fan, thermistor and LED ring might be fine. Then again, it might not.

AndThenSome09 wrote:I wired my hot end up with cat 5 cable, twisted a pair for the actual hot end then used singe wires for the peek fan, 1watt led ring, and thermistor. Been up and running since October of 2013 with no troubles with electronics.

It was the crimped Molex pins that did me in with solid core... The wire in the middle is fine, but there are only so many ways to properly terminate it. That's why I'd still advise against it.

Thanks for promoting it!
I don't have them up for sale yet, as it is still in development - but I do still have a few proto ones left I will be taking to MRRF.
Shoot me a message if your interested and please - post any suggestions you might have.

As for hotend mounts, it will fit the Standard SeeMe hotend and grove mount. There is a break-a-way section you remove and three little tabs you need to file down to fit the grove mount. (the SeeMe neck is 11mm and the grove mounts are 12mm). The E3D looks to be a grove mount. As long as it is no bigger than 12mm it should work.

As for the wire, I would recommend Belden 5506UE

I would really advise against using solid core wire. The constant motion will eventually cause the copper to work harden and then it will break.

g.

neurascenic wrote:Twisted... noted! Thanks!


WOW! that is a clean way of doing it. Does he have them for sale? If so, or nearly so, I would be thrilled to tidy things up like that!

The Quick Change hotend plug in board is now available at the MakerHive http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/index.php

Picked up two last night!

Looks good but instructions are a little spotty.

nitewatchman

nitewatchman wrote:Picked up two last night!

Looks good but instructions are a little spotty.

nitewatchman

Yes, thank you!
I will be doing a short assembly video tonight and will send you a link.

Perfect!

Added another video here;
http://makerhive.proboards.com/thread/6 ... ollTo=2619

Keep watching that post as I will be making updates to it periodically. If you have any questions feel free to email me at [email protected]

nitewatchman wrote:Picked up two last night!

Looks good but instructions are a little spotty.

nitewatchman

A couple of months later; I just found these and I am considering them (1 or 2 for now, maybe 3 so I have an excuse for a_NOTHER hot end).

If I (& others) may benefit from your experience;

How did they work out for you ?
What did you use for a crimping tool ?
Any tips you can add to the videos and assembly instructions ?

You'll love 'em. I've got 2, and am buying a 3rd to keep around for a rainy day. (the more parts I have, the less downtime when I rebuild something, right?)

Thanks Jim,
Imagining it through it looks like all the nuts and bolts change over as well.
Did you get extra effector platforms as well ?

There is a ~$60 crimp tool recommended, so I am wondering if my $10 radio shack tool will work with the molex pins.

RegB wrote:

nitewatchman wrote:Picked up two last night!

Looks good but instructions are a little spotty.

nitewatchman

A couple of months later; I just found these and I am considering them (1 or 2 for now, maybe 3 so I have an excuse for a_NOTHER hot end).

If I (& others) may benefit from your experience;

How did they work out for you ?
What did you use for a crimping tool ?
Any tips you can add to the videos and assembly instructions ?

Sorry, I am just getting around to mounting mine now. It appears that they will work well with my stock head and my e3d head.

nitewatchman wrote:

RegB wrote:

nitewatchman wrote:Picked up two last night!

Looks good but instructions are a little spotty.

nitewatchman

A couple of months later; I just found these and I am considering them (1 or 2 for now, maybe 3 so I have an excuse for a_NOTHER hot end).

If I (& others) may benefit from your experience;

How did they work out for you ?
What did you use for a crimping tool ?
Any tips you can add to the videos and assembly instructions ?

Sorry, I am just getting around to mounting mine now. It appears that they will work well with my stock head and my e3d head.

Hey Gary, how did it work with the E3D? thinking in buying a couple of them, but want to be sure first

Thanks!

Actually works very well. I mounted the E3d hotend direct to the Yellow Jacket Plate and mounted the plate directly to the effector. The places the hot end below the effector and gives very good visibility to the print.

I am in Seattle now but will shoot you a picture when I get home.

The Yellow Jacket Plate itself is great. It make the wiring to the platform much more orderly and simplifies the changing of effector platforms quick and easy.

I realy like it.