Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Got the Kit and stated the build a little while back, I am now back on it. Hopefully printing this weekend. I got the BORO Glass lastnight in the mail so I went ahead and cut a 1/8" thich 6061 Plate to go between the Onxy Head Bed and the Boro Glass.

Your build is progressing nicely, good job!

Got power to LCD it has Repetier 0.8 Rostock MAx My understanding from PDF I need to download the 1.0 from the github, and it recommends clicking the zip to download it all at once instead of one file at a time. Where is the zip buttin in the page?

https://github.com/seemecnc/RostockMAX/ ... r/FIRMWARE

joecnc2006 wrote:Got power to LCD it has Repetier 0.8 Rostock MAx My understanding from PDF I need to download the 1.0 from the github, and it recommends clicking the zip to download it all at once instead of one file at a time. Where is the zip buttin in the page?

https://github.com/seemecnc/RostockMAX/ ... r/FIRMWARE

Click back one breadcrumb to just "ROSTOCK MAX" and on the right hand side there is a "Download ZIP"

MSURunner wrote:

joecnc2006 wrote:Got power to LCD it has Repetier 0.8 Rostock MAx My understanding from PDF I need to download the 1.0 from the github, and it recommends clicking the zip to download it all at once instead of one file at a time. Where is the zip buttin in the page?

https://github.com/seemecnc/RostockMAX/ ... r/FIRMWARE

Click back one breadcrumb to just "ROSTOCK MAX" and on the right hand side there is a "Download ZIP"

Thanks,

The PDF tells you to download the firmware and unzip it, but does not tell you what to do with it. I would imagine you want to ge it into the Rambo to update it but no instructions.


I was going through the setup step by step and I see all my limit switches are high and they should be low, I have the wired exactly as pdf shows with the middle pin cut off and on the connector side of the wires on pins 1 and 2 only.

plus motors are moving backwards. I guess I need to change them from true to false in software I do not want to jack with the connectors at all.

Limit switches working now, had thm in the wrong ports on the Rambo, I could have swore I saw them in the top ports but No. moved them down and they are good in the M119 test, now motors move down instead of up and only for a short distance and stops, with the G28 I would think they would keep moving although in wrong direction until limits are hit.

Well I went ahead and cut the wire 1 and 2 and switched them and soldered together, I did did want to mess with the connector.

I still have the problem when I hit Home all the motors will move up a few mm's and just stop like it is a step not a home command, and if I keep hitting home it will eventually get to the top but will not stop when limit switches are hit. this happen with the LCD control as well as using repetier host through USB.

Any help would be appreciated, I'm at a loss right now.

Got the homing working well, and the heat bed and extruder heating like it should times are not to bad, If it is accurate I need to measure it to make sure.
Heat Bed From 20.6°c to 50°c = 2min 52sec
Extruder From 28.8°c to 190°c = 1min 8sec
Now to do some testing and calibration

I can not seem to get a print going, I used glue stick on glass and it sticks a little then the layers start to skip and do not adhere to one another, Is it possible my hot end is not really getting as hot as the temp says? It seems to extrude in the air fine at 100 200 and 300 mm sec. but it cools really quick and I can just pick it off with my hand without burning me, its not very hot.

I got some painters tape and all it does is blob on the end of the extruder and not as much plastic as I would expect.

What are the settings to run for ABS, feeds, and how do I know the extruder is going fast enough, I really do not see a setting for it in slic3r only in the configuration file of 92.65 (EZStruder is what I have with Rambo 1.1b).

Any help trouble shooting this would be great.

Is there a feeds and speeds chart or program like for milling.

On a side note added some LED's

You need to do an E-Steps calibration as in this guide: http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%2 ... tion_Guide

After completion of this calibration your extruder will extrude exactly what it is told to extrude.

First Ever test print, I need to learn how everything works, Anyone have their configuration.h file and some gcode files for abs that I can see your picture of the parts and study the codes?

Is there a place someone has posted their setup for repetier some screen shots for slicer? I know its asking allot but I'm a hands on kinda guy, its easier for me to see than to read and try to figure it out.
http://youtu.be/mBeuA03T_uA

Forgot to mention I redid my thermistor on the hot end and seemed to help.

One hint: when using the Red High temp RTV add 1/2 corn starch to the mix and within 30 minutes it is cured no need to wait 24hrs and does not break down the viscosity, I have used this many times on silicone molds.

Hey Joe!

I'll try and post a few settings I would try and use.

Layers and perimeters
Layer height: 0.2
First layer height: 0.35
Solid Layers: 3 and 3

Infill
Fill density: 0.2

Speed
All 30 except use '80%' in external perimeters. I believe this is in the manual.
Travel: 200
Acceleration: all 0's

Advanced
Depending on what tip you're using, if you're using the stock 0.5mm tip, I see quite a few people use .6 as a good number for all of these. Maybe use slightly higher on the 'First Layer' to get better bed adhesion.

Next tab over - Filament Settings
Filament
Diameter: If you haven't done it already, take some calipers and take a bunch of measurements over a few meters of filament and take the average.
Multiplier: 1

Next tab over - Printer Settings
Just make sure you're nozzle diameter is set properly.
Retraction Length: 5
Lift Z: .1
Speed: 50

You could try that just as a base line. It might be very similar to what you've already got.
I'm still quite new to this, but it looks to me as though it might be temperature related, or over extruding. But someone with more experience might want to chime in if I'm wrong.

I'm using settings very similar to this and getting excellent results.

Nice build by the way. I like the blue LEDs. They don't interfere with the cheapskates?

Blue Leds are cool! Fantastic look!

Eaglezsoar wrote:Blue Leds are cool! Fantastic look!

Yea but they do a number on your eyes, I may as another set which is white on the other side of the extrusion, and I can have a switch for white and a switch for blue.

joecnc2006 wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:Blue Leds are cool! Fantastic look!

Yea but they do a number on your eyes, I may as another set which is white on the other side of the extrusion, and I can have a switch for white and a switch for blue.

There is no interference with the cheapskates?

Eaglezsoar wrote:

joecnc2006 wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:Blue Leds are cool! Fantastic look!

Yea but they do a number on your eyes, I may as another set which is white on the other side of the extrusion, and I can have a switch for white and a switch for blue.

There is no interference with the cheapskates?

None the LED's are 6" long I think the cheapskates do not travel down that far.

Installing the Mag Arm Mod.

joecnc2006 wrote:Installing the Mag Arm Mod.

IMAG0462.jpg

IMAG0463.jpg

PINK!

bubbasnow wrote:

joecnc2006 wrote:Installing the Mag Arm Mod.

IMAG0462.jpg

IMAG0463.jpg

PINK!

hahaha, No its red and black the picture makes it look pinkish, I printed it in ABS for now, I am going to remake it in all black I got a role of Black PLA now and will start to practice with that.

Got it installed and printing now after calibration setup. running real smooth, not I do not hear the creeking from the Old Arms, it is pretty smooth, Will need to put some locktight on the screws for the ball joints.

Great job!

Testing the New Arms, they are running really smooth, I used a 3/8" round nose bit and smoother out the printed Ball bearing slot on the Arm End Pieces, help to make it smoother by allowing the ball to sit perfect in the recess.

Here is a test Printing a Yoda, Print came out nice but had a couple of problems not sure why but its all part of the tweeking process.
The Bottom came out really good the fill was just about perfect and no gaps.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL3wABJZZGc[/youtube]

Depending on what you used to slice it, some slicers do what you're seeing at the top of Yoda.
There are a number of places in the Yoda model where the filament is literally extruded into mid air, it always astonishes me it comes out as well as it does.
Usually adding say 20% infill will "fix it", but I wouldn't worry about it.

the arm mod turned out great joe, and i was also working on some LED lights, very cool!