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Anybody got a good config that they're using for Taulman's new "Bridge" filament?

I'm running a bunch of PLA, but am considering a couple reels of Bridge to see how it handles.. I've got some product development needs which are requiring some substantial tensile & shear strength, and am hoping to get that with Bridge filament.

Is there any "optimal" setup for outputing it on a Delta style printer?

I've got one (not slic3r though) that has been working for me:

extruder temperature: 250
bed temperature: 88
print speed: 25 mm/sec
retraction length: 4mm
retraction speed: 35-40mm/sec
perimeter (cura): 1.25mm
raft: on (2 layers)

I applied Elmer's glue via glue stick because I didn't want to take chances w/ adhesion. Everything came off very easily. More easily than ABS, in my experience.

I had some problems printing in the low to mid 240s and at higher speeds. I've never printed with the older nylon materials, but people I know who have recommended I print at a slower speed so that each layer adheres better. My settings appear to be slower/hotter than ones I've read elsewhere.

Attached some pictures to show you some successes/failures.

I really hope you're not using the stock hot end for that. You'll eventually destroy it at 250C. The PEEK section in the hot end has a maximum rating of 247C.

g.

geneb wrote:I really hope you're not using the stock hot end for that. You'll eventually destroy it at 250C. The PEEK section in the hot end has a maximum rating of 247C.

g.

Using Jhead w/ fan aimed at the peek section blowing at full power. Still crossing my fingers before every print =/

rymnd wrote:

geneb wrote:I really hope you're not using the stock hot end for that. You'll eventually destroy it at 250C. The PEEK section in the hot end has a maximum rating of 247C.

g.

Using Jhead w/ fan aimed at the peek section blowing at full power. Still crossing my fingers before every print =/

You really need to upgrade to the E3D hotend running temperatures that hot. You will eventually melt the j-head or original hotends.

I got an email last night from Taulman:


Melting (Soft) Temp: 217
Print Temp: 242
Bed (Platform) Temp: 30-60


that's a lot hotter than I was expecting!

0rionN00b wrote:I got an email last night from Taulman:


Melting (Soft) Temp: 217
Print Temp: 242
Bed (Platform) Temp: 30-60


that's a lot hotter than I was expecting!

I had it extruding just fine at 240-245, but my layers weren't adhering as I'd like. As Eaglezsoar said, I'd prefer to wait until getting an E3D or another all-metal hotend before doing any large/prolonged prints

on a tangent, what head does SeemeCNC use on the Orion? (ie., what temp is it capable of?)

0rionN00b wrote:on a tangent, what head does SeemeCNC use on the Orion? (ie., what temp is it capable of?)

The same temps as the Rostock Max. Maximum temperature of approximately 240c for prolonged printing.
Any hotend that is not all metal has the same approximate temperature limitations because they rely on peek plastic to hold
them together. Peek fan or not, it is not recommended to exceed the 240c temperature.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

0rionN00b wrote:on a tangent, what head does SeemeCNC use on the Orion? (ie., what temp is it capable of?)

The same temps as the Rostock Max. Maximum temperature of approximately 240c for prolonged printing.
Any hotend that is not all metal has the same approximate temperature limitations because they rely on peek plastic to hold
them together. Peek fan or not, it is not recommended to exceed the 240c temperature.

thx.

so what's the consensus on recommended rpelacement tip for it, if i wnat to run Bridge material regularly?

0rionN00b wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:

0rionN00b wrote:on a tangent, what head does SeemeCNC use on the Orion? (ie., what temp is it capable of?)

The same temps as the Rostock Max. Maximum temperature of approximately 240c for prolonged printing.
Any hotend that is not all metal has the same approximate temperature limitations because they rely on peek plastic to hold
them together. Peek fan or not, it is not recommended to exceed the 240c temperature.

thx.

so what's the consensus on recommended rpelacement tip for it, if i wnat to run Bridge material regularly?

The best all metal hotend on the market is the E3D.
Filastruder.com sells the E3D also if you live in the USA.

rymnd wrote:I've got one (not slic3r though) that has been working for me:

extruder temperature: 250
bed temperature: 88
print speed: 25 mm/sec
retraction length: 4mm
retraction speed: 35-40mm/sec
perimeter (cura): 1.25mm
raft: on (2 layers)

I applied Elmer's glue via glue stick because I didn't want to take chances w/ adhesion. Everything came off very easily. More easily than ABS, in my experience.

I had some problems printing in the low to mid 240s and at higher speeds. I've never printed with the older nylon materials, but people I know who have recommended I print at a slower speed so that each layer adheres better. My settings appear to be slower/hotter than ones I've read elsewhere.

Attached some pictures to show you some successes/failures.

Hey, Thanks!

I am just starting playing with Bridge, and wondering what settings ... I will try and report how it went

artexmg wrote:

rymnd wrote:I've got one (not slic3r though) that has been working for me:

extruder temperature: 250
bed temperature: 88
print speed: 25 mm/sec
retraction length: 4mm
retraction speed: 35-40mm/sec
perimeter (cura): 1.25mm
raft: on (2 layers)

I applied Elmer's glue via glue stick because I didn't want to take chances w/ adhesion. Everything came off very easily. More easily than ABS, in my experience.

I had some problems printing in the low to mid 240s and at higher speeds. I've never printed with the older nylon materials, but people I know who have recommended I print at a slower speed so that each layer adheres better. My settings appear to be slower/hotter than ones I've read elsewhere.

Attached some pictures to show you some successes/failures.

Hey, Thanks!

I am just starting playing with Bridge, and wondering what settings ... I will try and report how it went

Well ... it worked like a charm, thanks again, great time saver!

I just decided to play around with this last night for the first time and while I really like the way the end result feels (flexible/soft) the print is fairly terrible. I just printed the first thing I saw on thingiverse that looked moderately difficult to print that would finish in about an hour as it was late. I didn't really research settings much I just raised the temp some on what I had used for my last abs print and gave it a go.

I printed gcode sliced by the latest cura with the following settings:

Temp - 242 (Though the temp seemed to fluctuate more with this than abs with like a 4-5 degree difference)
Bed Temp - 95
Layer Height - .1mm
Speed - 30mm/sec (I did try slowing this down to 60% in repetier for the first layer on my initial print which I killed)
Retraction - 4mm
Speed - 40mm/sec
Perimeter - 1.05mm
No raft, no brim.

I used a glue stick also and did not seem to have any issues with adhesion. The problem as you can see by the pics is the infill sticking to the outer walls.

I am printing on a Rostock Max V2 with a recent seemee hot end (I believe it's the same as the stock but it's a second one I purchased) using a .35 nozzle.

I'm not sure if I am printing too fast, extruding too little (it seems like there just isn't enough material there to fill the gaps), or maybe it's just not hot enough. I may give it a go with a .5 nozzle later.

I have an E3D V6 that I just received and will be installing next week so I'll try cranking the temps up a bit with that to give it a go.

Any thoughts on improving prints for the short term?

Thanks!

Pics:

probably not hot enough. it looks to me like the filament could be "sticking" too much to the hot end and it's getting dragged around. try looks for that. with the e3d v6 at 260 I have no problems at all. Do remember to turn down your retraction with the e3d or you can jam your hot end.

Definitely not hot enough. I run Bridge at 250-255 for best layer adhesion.

Also, no need to turn down retraction with the E3D on anything except PLA... and even then, you can keep your retraction settings if you bump the temp up 10-15C to keep the flow going.

@mven42: just caught my attention that you are using the stock hot end?

If so, do not get pass to 247C or you will melt the PEEK tube inside! For that, you will need an all metal hot end (E3D almost everybody here will say, me included!).