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Hi
i noticed when im printing a large object on one corner the nozzle is too far from the build plate and that is causing the first layer to be almost on air.
do i adjust it from the scows? or somewhere in the software?

mrbdrm wrote:Hi
i noticed when im printing a large object on one corner the nozzle is too far from the build plate and that is causing the first layer to be almost on air.
do i adjust it from the scows? or somewhere in the software?

calibrate bed and bed radius, see Orion Manual, page 25 I believe.

joecnc2006 wrote:

mrbdrm wrote:Hi
i noticed when im printing a large object on one corner the nozzle is too far from the build plate and that is causing the first layer to be almost on air.
do i adjust it from the scows? or somewhere in the software?

calibrate bed and bed radius, see Orion Manual, page 25 I believe.

there is only z hight calibration on the manual
do i move the nozzle to the edge and do the same as i did to the center?

mrbdrm wrote:

joecnc2006 wrote:

mrbdrm wrote:Hi
i noticed when im printing a large object on one corner the nozzle is too far from the build plate and that is causing the first layer to be almost on air.
do i adjust it from the scows? or somewhere in the software?

calibrate bed and bed radius, see Orion Manual, page 25 I believe.

there is only z hight calibration on the manual
do i move the nozzle to the edge and do the same as i did to the center?

You must have an old manual. Download this one, it has a calibtration routine in it.
http://download.seemecnc.com/orion/Orio ... -2ndEd.pdf

if you have the manual saved and its older than about a week or so, it has been updated... I wrote the calibration steps I do here at the shop before they all ship..
http://download.seemecnc.com/orion/Orio ... -2ndEd.pdf

is what he is referring to starting at page 25... hope this helps..

Guanu

you may have posted before me eagle, but at least my link works... mwahahahahaha!!!

Guanu

guanu wrote:you may have posted before me eagle, but at least my link works... mwahahahahaha!!!

Guanu

So does mine now, I stole the one from yours!
Thanks for bringing it to my attention!

Thanks guys that was helpful.

Hello Everyone,
First post here. My name is Jason and I'm a Middle School science and tech teacher. I finally busted out the Orion Delta I purchased in December as we are moving into some CAD stuff. We've been printing away and the kids are ecstatic not only with the product, but watching with anticipation as the models take shape. So glad I bought this thing. I, however, am not super happy with the quality of the prints and am also getting some lift on one corner of larger prints. Is the calibration process in the 0.91 version printer OK for my 0.83? It's not in that manual. Just want to be safe as this is all new learning for us.
-Jason

SlayorJr wrote:Hello Everyone,
First post here. My name is Jason and I'm a Middle School science and tech teacher. I finally busted out the Orion Delta I purchased in December as we are moving into some CAD stuff. We've been printing away and the kids are ecstatic not only with the product, but watching with anticipation as the models take shape. So glad I bought this thing. I, however, am not super happy with the quality of the prints and am also getting some lift on one corner of larger prints. Is the calibration process in the 0.91 version printer OK for my 0.83? It's not in that manual. Just want to be safe as this is all new learning for us.
-Jason

You don't mention what kind of filament you are using and if you are using something on the glass to help adhere the part being made. The curling of edges on the larger prints is a common problem but to advise you on how to manage
it we would need the type of filament and if you are using a glue of any kind and the bed temperatures you print at.

slayorjr,
if you still have .83 firmware, update to .91.... if you dont have arduino, its linked on our download page, also get the rambo driver... load arduino, select mega2560 from the board type in the tools menu, select com port in the tools menu...
go to file-examples-eeprom and load eeprom_clear and upload that to the machine... after that, get the .91 firmware from https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ORION (click download zip on the right side to grab it all)... load the repetier.ino file from the repetier folder and upload that to the machine... once its uploaded, follow the calibration procedure outlined in the manual... since the eeprom was cleared you will need to do a full calibration that is listed there... but its not bad.

that will get you updated to the latest firmware.

hope this helps!

Guanu

Going to try the updated firmware and calibration process.
Using ABS, 218 C extruder temp & 80 C bed temp. Using Elmer's purple and clear disappearing with same results.

Another development on a print this AM. Two nuts from the bottom of the extruder base fell off while printing (that print was a mess). I was changing out plastic and noticed wiggle. Luckily found both on floor of the display cabinet the printer sits in, screwed them back on and prints after that appear to be about the same. Are those supposed to be adjustable or should I loctite them so this does not happen again?

My students were upset that the printer was out of commission because they have been printing game pieces for a social studies board game project. Kids not taking my class are super jealous because their game components are made of cardboard .

Thanks guys, really fast responses to my first post.

-Jason

SlayorJr wrote:Going to try the updated firmware and calibration process.
Using ABS, 218 C extruder temp & 80 C bed temp. Using Elmer's purple and clear disappearing with same results.

Another development on a print this AM. Two nuts from the bottom of the extruder base fell off while printing (that print was a mess). I was changing out plastic and noticed wiggle. Luckily found both on floor of the display cabinet the printer sits in, screwed them back on and prints after that appear to be about the same. Are those supposed to be adjustable or should I loctite them so this does not happen again?

My students were upset that the printer was out of commission because they have been printing game pieces for a social studies board game project. Kids not taking my class are super jealous because their game components are made of cardboard .

Thanks guys, really fast responses to my first post.

-Jason

You can loctite those nuts. The only time they would need to turn is when you have to remove the hotend for maintenance or change out. Possibly better than loctite would be to use the nylon lock nuts if there is sufficient screw
length or lengthen the screws so that the nylon lock nuts would fit.

SlayorJr wrote:Going to try the updated firmware and calibration process.
Using ABS, 218 C extruder temp & 80 C bed temp. Using Elmer's purple and clear disappearing with same results.

Just a thought - if you haven't tried printing with PLA, you might want to give it a go - I've found it's far superior to ABS in terms of ease of printing - it's not ideal for all uses, but it adheres very easily to glass at lower temps (60c), and is generally a much easier substance to work with IMHO.

I only print in ABS now when it needs to withstand a higher temp, or if I'd like to acetone smooth something.

I bought 7 spools of ABS in different colors! but have some budget to pick up some PLA.

I did not have time to go through the calibration process but did go grab some Elmer's purple glue sticks. This stuff seems to hold the ABS better (I'm not sure how old the other purple tube was - it was in the back of my desk drawer.) prints looked better and only one had a tiny bit of lift.

I watched one print (a Thor Hammer model about 2" x 1" x 1" for head). It ended up with splits because a stray strand of material got in the middle of it. What might be an option to prevent that?

Still planning on updating firmware and calibrating when I get a chance.

I'm going to look into that acetone smoothing. My students badgered me into making a big green Yoda head and it has a few rough spots.

SlayorJr wrote: I'm going to look into that acetone smoothing. My students badgered me into making a big green Yoda head and it has a few rough spots.

It's pretty easy to do. Acetone isn't especially dangerous (except for being flammable), and it's very fast! It eats plastic like crazy though, so careful not to spill!

You can either brush it on directly (easy, but hard to control how much it melts/smooths the ABS), or by a acetone vapour bath (much more consistent, but requires boiling the acetone to vapour in an enclosed container).

If you try the vapour method, make sure you do it outside, with good ventilation, make sure you're using a heater that doesn't use a flame, with no combustible sources nearby (someone online made a simple device using an electric wok with a lid that seemed quite reliable). Keep a fire extinguisher nearby, and you should probably wear eye protection just to be extra safe. Usually 20-30 seconds of vapour bath is enough for a glossy finish.

You might want to increase your bed temp from 80C to 90 or 100. ABS likes heat and it doesn't like drafts. One thing that you can do if you do not wish to use ugly raft is to add mouse ears to the corners if your models. This will help your parts stick to the bed. You cut those off afterward. Mouse ears aren't needed on small prints but any big things that takes a long time to print, I usually add them. You'll surely learn some of those tricks on your own once you start printing often.


I would definitely try PLA especially if you're just printing objects of art, such as, yoda heads for your students. It's my personal favorite filament. You can pick up a spool for $25 from Filament Central. I purchased MANY rolls of material from these people. Can't say enough good things about them.

Mouse ears! Nice. Will pay Filament Central a visit too. Right now we are doing mostly artsy stuff.
Thanks.
-Jason