Full Graphic Smart Controller?

[atoff]

I was thinking about picking this up for my build... http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD_FULL_GR ... TARTUP.JPG
Anyone know if it would be compatible? The only thread I found on the subject was this one: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... art#p30064, and it left me very confused.

I see there are also a bunch of cheap clones on Ebay... since it's an opensource project, I'm guessing they're no different... but the original is discounted right now to about $55... so, not bad.

[Eaglezsoar]

I was thinking about picking this up for my build... http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD_FULL_GR ... TARTUP.JPG
Anyone know if it would be compatible? The only thread I found on the subject was this one: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... art#p30064, and it left me very confused.

I see there are also a bunch of cheap clones on Ebay... since it's an opensource project, I'm guessing they're no different... but the original is discounted right now to about $55... so, not bad.

Version .91 of Repetier Firmware supports it but after searching the forum I cannot find anyone who has installed it successfully.

[JohnStack]

This might not be something you want in terms of quality.

I've developed with the 4D Systems displays - a touch screen version - but they have decent screens if you want to wire one up yourself.

I've always wanted to code a touch screen version (like a 4.3"); however, no time, not a priority. I'm just happy to keep improving my prints!

[atoff]

This might not be something you want in terms of quality.

I've developed with the 4D Systems displays - a touch screen version - but they have decent screens if you want to wire one up yourself.

I've always wanted to code a touch screen version (like a 4.3"); however, no time, not a priority. I'm just happy to keep improving my prints!

I see, you don't think it would be an improvement over the original? I just figured it would be easier to control and nicer to look at. Could you please explain why it might not be something I'd want? I was planning on also picking up a 24V PSU, and a silicone heater http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/S ... 92727.html.

[Eric]

More flexible hardware only creates the potential for a better interface. Actually getting a better interface requires someone having a better design and then writing the software to implement it.

[Tinyhead]

I see, you don't think it would be an improvement over the original? I just figured it would be easier to control and nicer to look at. Could you please explain why it might not be something I'd want? I was planning on also picking up a 24V PSU, and a silicone heater http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/S ... 92727.html.

If you get a 24V PSU (I believe Eaglezsoar mentioned a 30A in another post, but sounds like a 20A might be sufficient), it should bring your bed up to temp fast enough. I currently have 4 square pads which help dramatically improve bed heat time, but after it's removed, I have to leave the plate for a bit to let the temperatures equalize to the missing surface heat anyway. I would rather just have the 24V supply (which I don't have). If you get the supply, save the cost of the heat pad and get an aluminum heat spreader instead.

[atoff]

More flexible hardware only creates the potential for a better interface. Actually getting a better interface requires someone having a better design and then writing the software to implement it.

So, basically, no need for it. Oh well, that's cool, I'll stick to stock.

If you get a 24V PSU (I believe Eaglezsoar mentioned a 30A in another post, but sounds like a 20A might be sufficient), it should bring your bed up to temp fast enough. I currently have 4 square pads which help dramatically improve bed heat time, but after it's removed, I have to leave the plate for a bit to let the temperatures equalize to the missing surface heat anyway. I would rather just have the 24V supply (which I don't have). If you get the supply, save the cost of the heat pad and get an aluminum heat spreader instead.

20140325_204034.jpg

I'm confused... how would I use the 24V supply with the onyx heat bed, when the onyx is rated for 12V? Also, not sure what you mean about letting the temp equalize to the missing surface heat after you remove the plate? When / why do you remove the plate, and what missing surface temperature?

Edit: Oh, I guess you use a heat pad ON TOP of the onxy bed to get the temps up quickly, then remove it, and wait for it to equalize, then print. Is that right? I was thinking about just replacing the onyx heat bed with the silicone. I don't know if that's possible. I'm just going by what I've been reading on forums. This will be my first printer.

[Flateric]

I used it a fair amount. It worked just as well as any other LCD I have used.

[Eaglezsoar]

I see, you don't think it would be an improvement over the original? I just figured it would be easier to control and nicer to look at. Could you please explain why it might not be something I'd want? I was planning on also picking up a 24V PSU, and a silicone heater http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/S ... 92727.html.

If you get a 24V PSU (I believe Eaglezsoar mentioned a 30A in another post, but sounds like a 20A might be sufficient), it should bring your bed up to temp fast enough. I currently have 4 square pads which help dramatically improve bed heat time, but after it's removed, I have to leave the plate for a bit to let the temperatures equalize to the missing surface heat anyway. I would rather just have the 24V supply (which I don't have). If you get the supply, save the cost of the heat pad and get an aluminum heat spreader instead.

20140325_204034.jpg

A 20amp 24V supply would be sufficient but the draw from it would be approximately 17 amps and I don't like operating that close to the supply's limit, that's why I and others have chosen the 30amp.
Another user mentioned that the Onyx is rated only for 12V and that is true but we have discovered that it works fine on 24V. If you type site: seemecnc.com 24V into your browser it will find many references
to users who operate at 24V along with an SSR. It has been proven to work but not recommended for those who do not know how to connect it properly or those who are concerned about burning up the Onyx
because such a hookup could possibly void the warranty on the Onyx. I am not sure how Seemecnc feels about the 24V mod.

[atoff]

I used it a fair amount. It worked just as well as any other LCD I have used.

Do you feel it adds any benefit? As in, easier to navigate, or more visually appealing? The clones are just so cheap, it probably wouldn't hurt to play around with.

A 20amp 24V supply would be sufficient but the draw from it would be approximately 17 amps and I don't like operating that close to the supply's limit, that's why I and others have chosen the 30amp.
Another user mentioned that the Onyx is rated only for 12V and that is true but we have discovered that it works fine on 24V. If you type site: seemecnc.com 24V into your browser it will find many references
to users who operate at 24V along with an SSR. It has been proven to work but not recommended for those who do not know how to connect it properly or those who are concerned about burning up the Onyx
because such a hookup could possibly void the warranty on the Onyx. I am not sure how Seemecnc feels about the 24V mod.

Thanks, but yeah, I think I'd be worried about it burning up the bed. I saw this thread here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 2&start=10, where foshon recommended just getting a 24v kapton heater to run straight from the Rambo, which lead me to a search for a 280mm D kaptop heater, which lead me to this thread here https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic ... Aa8TWTNAwM, which then lead me to the aliexpress store I linked in the OP. The silicone heater would be cheap, so that's good, but whether or not i'm able to replace the onyx bed, I'm not sure how that would work.

[Tinyhead]

Oh, I guess you use a heat pad ON TOP of the onxy bed to get the temps up quickly, then remove it, and wait for it to equalize, then print. Is that right? I was thinking about just replacing the onyx heat bed with the silicone. I don't know if that's possible. I'm just going by what I've been reading on forums. This will be my first printer.

That's right. Just to get the temperature up more quickly. And sorry, I didn't realize you wanted to replace the Onyx outright.

I've seen a lot of guys run 24V to their Onyx beds on here and never really see an issue with it. I don't know how much you would want to use one of those silicone pads just for leveling purposes. The incoming wires leave quite the bump. Even if you avoid the wires, I'd be very hesitant.

Have you got your printer yet?

[atoff]

Oh, I guess you use a heat pad ON TOP of the onxy bed to get the temps up quickly, then remove it, and wait for it to equalize, then print. Is that right? I was thinking about just replacing the onyx heat bed with the silicone. I don't know if that's possible. I'm just going by what I've been reading on forums. This will be my first printer.

That's right. Just to get the temperature up more quickly. And sorry, I didn't realize you wanted to replace the Onyx outright.

I've seen a lot of guys run 24V to their Onyx beds on here and never really see an issue with it. I don't know how much you would want to use one of those silicone pads just for leveling purposes. The incoming wires leave quite the bump. Even if you avoid the wires, I'd be very hesitant.

Have you got your printer yet?

Ah, thanks, you make a good point about the leveling. So, no issues from users using a 24v supply straight to the Onyx bed without any mods? I have been looking for a kapton bed, but haven't yet found one large enough, but if there's no issue going straight to the Onyx bed, I see no reason to replace it.

Haven't received my kit yet, it's 9:56am here in SoCal, and I usually get shipments in around 1-2pm.

[Tinyhead]

I would get the machine up and running first before you do your upgrades. You might find the stock bed works just fine for what you're doing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

[atoff]

I would get the machine up and running first before you do your upgrades. You might find the stock bed works just fine for what you're doing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

You're right about that... I was thinking the same thing after thinking about leveling, and then looking at running 24v through the Onyx. I do want to print quite a bit of ABS though, as well as PET, so, I shall see. Those 24V 30A supplies are pricey!!

[Eaglezsoar]

I would get the machine up and running first before you do your upgrades. You might find the stock bed works just fine for what you're doing. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

You're right about that... I was thinking the same thing after thinking about leveling, and then looking at running 24v through the Onyx. I do want to print quite a bit of ABS though, as well as PET, so, I shall see. Those 24V 30A supplies are pricey!!

This is the power supply a lot of us have used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meanwell-SP-750 ... 1c3edf45d4

They are getting harder to find.

[atoff]

This is the power supply a lot of us have used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meanwell-SP-750 ... 1c3edf45d4

They are getting harder to find.

Thanks, I'll be bidding.

[Eaglezsoar]

This is the power supply a lot of us have used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Meanwell-SP-750 ... 1c3edf45d4

They are getting harder to find.

Thanks, I'll be bidding.

I think that one is also a buy it now. We used to pay about $65 + shipping.
I think that one is $40 +25 shipping. I would snag it now if you need it because they are becoming rare and you will not get many chances.

[atoff]

I think that one is also a buy it now. We used to pay about $65 + shipping.
I think that one is $40 +25 shipping. I would snag it now if you need it because they are becoming rare and you will not get many chances.

Not seeing a "Buy it Now" option... might be because I placed a bid.

[Eaglezsoar]

I think that one is also a buy it now. We used to pay about $65 + shipping.
I think that one is $40 +25 shipping. I would snag it now if you need it because they are becoming rare and you will not get many chances.

Not seeing a "Buy it Now" option... might be because I placed a bid.

Yea, once a bid is placed the buy it now disappears.
This is the last one on Ebay for a decent price, but with a $25 shipping charge the most I would pay for it is $50.
They are good power supplies, and a lot of us own them but if you don't get this one a 20amp 24V Meanwell power supply will work.
Don't forget that you will need a DC-DC SSR also.

[atoff]

Yea, once a bid is placed the buy it now disappears.
This is the last one on Ebay for a decent price, but with a $25 shipping charge the most I would pay for it is $50.
They are good power supplies, and a lot of us own them but if you don't get this one a 20amp 24V Meanwell power supply will work.
Don't forget that you will need a DC-DC SSR also.

Okay, thanks, appreciate the help. I'm moving at a snails pace with this build at this point, because of the missing thermistors, then considering dampeners for the motors. I'm at the point where I'd mount the motors, so at this stage, not sure if it's worth continuing if I'm going to have to take it apart to install the dampeners. I probably shouldn't rush through.