Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I am an Industrial Design student who's tired of dealing with our facitilies overpriced and slow 3D print lab. Hence the Rostock now sitting at my house!

I have been unable to get past anything beyond manually moving the print head around via Repetier-Host. The temp sensors do not regester, and on the Rostocks display is states: NOZ: def BED: def

I am also unable to get the extruder to move manually. In addition non of the switches seem to work, nor will the 'M119' command even move the cheapskates to test this further.

I am providing some (Ugly) images. Any thoughts guys? Time is not on my side on this one.

Best,
Ian

Adding a screencap of Repetier

the reason it says def for temps looking at the repetier screen, is there is a problem with your hot end thermistor, usually when it reads like that, the solder connection at the hotend connecting the thermistor to the wires came undone.. I would check there first... to verify, check the ohm reading on the white wires for the thermistor at the plug end, you should get a reading of about 100k ohms.. if you dont get a reading, check the solder connections at the hotend.

and to add why you cannot manually move the extruder, the firmware has protection in it that wont let the extruder motor move unless the hotend is above a certain temp.. its so the extruder doesnt try to push filament into a cold hotend

Guanu

It seems like the build plate's sensor is working? So why does it also read as 'def' on the rostock's monitor? Yet give me a room temp reading within Repetier-Host?

I am tracking down a multimeter now, will post updates.

yeah, when either of the thermistors doesnt have a connection, the lcd reads def on both... if you look at the lcd right when you turn it on, you will see the same thing you see on repetier before it goes def, the hotend will show a wonky temp, and the bed reads fine... shows that for a second, then they both go def... building many orions I've had it happen a few times and pretty much 100% of the time its a bad solder between the thermisotr and the wires on the hotend, and have to re-solder it.. also make sure the legs of the thermistor arent touching, that can also cause it to be def.

Guanu

Seems like one of the legs broke off on on the thermistor. I've ordered another one via SeeMe. But is there a solution I could find that could get here faster possibly? It's crazy they use such insanely delicate parts for the temp sensor.

ianott wrote:It's crazy they use such insanely delicate parts for the temp sensor.

It truly is the right thing for the job though.

Maybe in a future mod you should install one of those threaded ones that everybody's getting from Ebay.

Link to said threaded eBay part please?

Threaded thermistor I think usually pulls it up on ebay. You can also order some 3mm pcb standoffs* and pot any thermistor you want into it. You still have to tap your hotend for it, I haven't seen pictures of anyone doing it to the stock hotend, only the E3D ones. Doesn't mean it wouldn't work though.

*http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AO4 ... UTF8&psc=1

Would this work for my Rostock Max V2?


http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-10-100Koh ... thermistor

Wouldn't be a problem at all. The basic install/tune/verification still applies. Any thermistor can be used as long as it can withstand the range of hotend temps. At worst you change the thermistor selection in firmware. It's recommended to verify the temperature with an external temperature probe anyways. I personally just used a temp probe and would go through the firmware selection of the applicable sensors (NTC types for example) and found the one closest to my independent readings. Getting the small diameter PTFE tubes for the thermistor would be helpful to have as backup if you change thermistors. You can get away with keeping the leads seperated by just kapton tape or some other high temp insulating material if you're careful.