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This good looking speakers were designed by Akemake,
And, this is my version!.
I am using Zen Wood PLA. Still waiting on my electronic components to finish this little guy!

Go get the stl file, it is free!: http://akemake.com/collections/pilot_da ... /spirulida and print your own!

Warning: you would have to print a little outside of your printer bed ... face no fear, it is possible (I do this regularly:-) )!

Beautiful print! I love crazy speaker designs. Have you tried it with name-brand wood PLA (ie: woodfill/laywood)?

look`s great, love it.

That is one cool looking speaker!
This is the kind of stuff that would sell if you decided to go that route.

brent wrote:Beautiful print! I love crazy speaker designs. Have you tried it with name-brand wood PLA (ie: woodfill/laywood)?

Not yet, only with Zen wood. Actually, I want to get some of the Timberfill from Filamentum. They claim that it is "100% wood" ... that could not be true

However, they do not ship yet to USA ...

Wow, Akemake sounds like a company that "gets it". Interesting concept for their products.

That is a cool idea. If it ends up sounding nice, I'd definitely give it a go - I've got some wood-like filament coming from the PolyMaker Kickstarter in the not too distant future.

bdjohns1 wrote:That is a cool idea. If it ends up sounding nice, I'd definitely give it a go - I've got some wood-like filament coming from the PolyMaker Kickstarter in the not too distant future.

Please let us know how wood-like filament works for you.

artexmg wrote: Warning: you would have to print a little outside of your printer bed ... face no fear, it is possible (I do this regularly:-) )!

2014-06-17 01.24.06.jpg

How did you fool your slicer to print outside the bed? I got the file and Slic3r does not like it with default settings.

nitewatchman

nitewatchman wrote:

artexmg wrote: Warning: you would have to print a little outside of your printer bed ... face no fear, it is possible (I do this regularly:-) )!

2014-06-17 01.24.06.jpg

How did you fool your slicer to print outside the bed? I got the file and Slic3r does not like it with default settings.

nitewatchman

I am using Simplify 3D. However, I would just change the settings of the Printing Bed in Repetier Host to the diameter you want to print (I assume you are using Slic3r with Repetier).

Cheers!

EDIT: I made a comment a few minutes ago that I could not get this to print as it was just too big. Gotta take that back; I'm still learning. If you have either of the farthest edges of the print directly across from a tower, you're done. BUT, if you take a moment, you can see that you can take advantage of the delta geometry and put those farthest points close to a tower instead. This is what I've now done and I can reach those distances fairly easily.

I've printed slightly beyond the bed but it seems to introduce some oddness in the vertical walls.. Nothing too bad but not as pretty as a normal wall is

Tinyhead wrote:EDIT: I made a comment a few minutes ago that I could not get this to print as it was just too big. Gotta take that back; I'm still learning. If you have either of the farthest edges of the print directly across from a tower, you're done. BUT, if you take a moment, you can see that you can take advantage of the delta geometry and put those farthest points close to a tower instead. This is what I've now done and I can reach those distances fairly easily.

Yes, you are right! if had learned (the hard way, literally), that little trick. I can gain 1" (aprox) using it.

and, yes, the risk of having these points right across from a tower is the cheapskate "falling" and hitting the ground

Tinyhead wrote:EDIT: I made a comment a few minutes ago that I could not get this to print as it was just too big. Gotta take that back; I'm still learning. If you have either of the farthest edges of the print directly across from a tower, you're done. BUT, if you take a moment, you can see that you can take advantage of the delta geometry and put those farthest points close to a tower instead. This is what I've now done and I can reach those distances fairly easily.

Ah ... there is another trick that, I am not sure if it is real or just my imagination (had not time/need to verify it yet).

This is, I think I can reach further distances if I mount my E3D hot end below the effector platform, than when it is mounted above it.

Which makes me think that the higher the layer, the further I can get in the perimeter I can get. It is easy to verify, though, not done it yet (yes, I am lazy!)

It makes sense, but, not always what makes sense is what really happens, so, until not verified, it is just a kind of myth

McSlappy wrote:I've printed slightly beyond the bed but it seems to introduce some oddness in the vertical walls.. Nothing too bad but not as pretty as a normal wall is

I recall reading a post from PartDaddy about him had designed the Orion to be 1" larger than what it said in the commercial specifications. Chances are he did the same with the Max?

I had printed different kind of stuff out of the border, not single walls though. I will give it a try and see what happens ... not tomorrow, not the day after tomorrow, but some of these days

Tinyhead wrote:EDIT: I made a comment a few minutes ago that I could not get this to print as it was just too big. Gotta take that back; I'm still learning. If you have either of the farthest edges of the print directly across from a tower, you're done. BUT, if you take a moment, you can see that you can take advantage of the delta geometry and put those farthest points close to a tower instead. This is what I've now done and I can reach those distances fairly easily.

Having the same issue but I haven't figured it out yet. Got a hint for the rotation?

nitewatchman

nitewatchman wrote:

Tinyhead wrote:EDIT: I made a comment a few minutes ago that I could not get this to print as it was just too big. Gotta take that back; I'm still learning. If you have either of the farthest edges of the print directly across from a tower, you're done. BUT, if you take a moment, you can see that you can take advantage of the delta geometry and put those farthest points close to a tower instead. This is what I've now done and I can reach those distances fairly easily.

Having the same issue but I haven't figured it out yet. Got a hint for the rotation?

nitewatchman

Well, just rotate the piece before slicing it. Take a look to the picture I posted. If you look close, you will see in the top the X tower. I would suggest you to made the same orientation.

Ah, other thing I did was to increase the current on the three steppers, in the configuration.h section of the firmware, to 195 each, like this:

#define MOTOR_CURRENT {195,195,195,195,195} (NOTE: the last motor if only for a second extruder configuration)

I believe this helps the motor to perform when they are in those edges (not sure if this is true or just a "superstition" )

Cheers!

Eaglezsoar wrote:

bdjohns1 wrote:That is a cool idea. If it ends up sounding nice, I'd definitely give it a go - I've got some wood-like filament coming from the PolyMaker Kickstarter in the not too distant future.

Please let us know how wood-like filament works for you.

Well, the one I am using IS wood-like filament. It just happens to be not the most known (Zen wood filament), however, it had worked very well for me.

In terms of sound, it is well know that wood is one of the best materials (the best?). However, I do not expect the these speakers to have 100% wood-like properties.

I will let you know, once I get the electronic parts, and put everything together.

Cheers!

It took a few attempts to get the print started, and I've had to shim my build plate in a few places with paper to try and get things somewhat even, but it's finally looking like it might be up to the task of doing the print.
Black PLA, 0.1 layer height. I chose the small layer height because I really like the finish, but mostly because I'm going to be working a lot in the next few days and don't mind it taking a while (39hrs). Wish I had some wood filament to try out. For me this was more of a 'see if I could do it' print than anything.

Tinyhead wrote:It took a few attempts to get the print started, and I've had to shim my build plate in a few places with paper to try and get things somewhat even, but it's finally looking like it might be up to the task of doing the print.

20140623_213126.jpg

Black PLA, 0.1 layer height. I chose the small layer height because I really like the finish, but mostly because I'm going to be working a lot in the next few days and don't mind it taking a while (39hrs). Wish I had some wood filament to try out. For me this was more of a 'see if I could do it' print than anything.

Looks great!! - 39 hours x 4 shells = lots of fun!

artexmg wrote:

Tinyhead wrote:It took a few attempts to get the print started, and I've had to shim my build plate in a few places with paper to try and get things somewhat even, but it's finally looking like it might be up to the task of doing the print.

The attachment 20140623_213126.jpg is no longer available

Black PLA, 0.1 layer height. I chose the small layer height because I really like the finish, but mostly because I'm going to be working a lot in the next few days and don't mind it taking a while (39hrs). Wish I had some wood filament to try out. For me this was more of a 'see if I could do it' print than anything.

Looks great!! - 39 hours x 4 shells = lots of fun!

Looked great. Looked.
Mag arm owners will know. The hole at the back of the print started to get an upturned edge from the overhang. Game over. Where the fault occured, the X and Y arms were fairly horizontal, and I'm sure that was taking the edge off the magnets a bit. Probably didn't take much. That wasn't exactly a lot of overhang, so it must have been just a little lip to knock it off. On the left side of the hole, I can see that's where the nozzle hit and melted in before it got dragged all over the place.
It was so nice and smooth too. Would have looked great. I bet the wood filament looks amazing.

I am new to all this, but a stupid question...Can we resize the image to fit the printing area??? Just curious.

Sure, it can be scaled to any size you like BUT it won't fit the speakers.

nitewatchman

Ok gotcha.......Thank you for clearing that up for me.

There is a slightly smaller model on their web site that accepts a 3" speaker but there is a $9.90 charge. It's a little easier to fit.

nitewatchman