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Anyone got a fix for prints being tilted to one side. I have already jumpered the opto's and removed the diodes. The prints for the Y-axis is leaning back and when I switch out the wiring with the X-axis , it jumps to the X-axis.

whats all your mach settings? make sure in motor tuning x y and z are all the same.

Guanu

I swapped out x and y pinouts in mach to see if the issue moved and it didnt, so its something to do with the board. This is my second board, the last one, one of the axis wouldnt work. Now everything works, but Y-axis is skewed.


[img]http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/80652411/s ... t_skew.jpg[/img]

I don't think this is your problem but I'll bring it up here - Did you rule out the "sticky idler pulley" problem? Basically, if the white idlers are tightened down too much they do not spin. So, the timing belt slides over them. The friction ultimately catches up and a tooth gets skipped. Several of us had this problem.


Double check the jumpers you used for the opts - reseat them all. If you used staples, the fit is pretty loose. And the sockets used on these boards are pretty low quality. Try that and also double check the placement of the jumpers.

cheers,
Michael

I went and put all the opto's back in , now its printing correctly with no skew . Weird

the three smaller ones are the leaning prints and the larger one is with the opto's back in , prints dont look good, but atleast the tilt is gone

[img]http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/80652411/s ... d_skew.jpg[/img]

That indicates that the jumpers were not seated properly IMO. I observed the same thing.

cheers,
Michael

What kind of a computer are you using to print? There might be a chance that you are not getting 5vdc from your parallel port.

I running a very old computer. I think it might be around the 200-500 mhz range.

Its one opto in particular, with it in I get tilt, if I have it jumpered the tilt comes back. The Y-axis stepper is really noisy. and if I moved the wiring the noise travels to the other stepper. But the noise never goes away wether its jumper or not.

Well got off work to try and see if I can solve this issue with the Y-axis. Now it will not move at all ,, swap wiring and it moves fine. Ive come to the conclusion that these Chinese boards are pure JUNK . This makes two driver boards that have never worked right. ' throws hands up in the air'
Just Great ...

kilroyo, the Chinese boards do have some issues but literally 1000s of people have got them to work. Let's start with the basics, can you photo or post your DIP settings on the board. A photo of the entire board might help too.

Also, I posted the user guide from the manufacturer of the manual in the electronics doc forum. If you haven't perused it you should.

cheers,
Michael

I forgot to mention, I chased a similar problem with Gecko drivers. It turned out that I was over current to one of the steppers. I swear I checked that multiple times but in the end that was the problem.

It can be frustrating but in the end worth it!

cheers,
Michael

Humm , Well I think I jumped the gun on cussing out the driver, because this morning , I was able to get everything to work. I still have to have the opto in order to not have skewed prints. I attempted at a velleman board holder . Had some problems with it sticking a first. It turned out ok, but not best. I think I will try everything on a faster computer, to see if thats the issue. I'll try and throw up a picture of my setup. When you guys talk about getting it dialed in, What exactly are you guys adjusting. I dont know if what I printed out is typical for a first print, or what.
[img]http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/80652411/s ... ttempt.jpg[/img]

That's a pretty good first print! Dialing in means a number of things;

1) make sure the dimensions of the print are all correct. That requires calibrating the axis. If you haven't done that, do it now! Search for calibration here and you should find some stuff on it. When you tell an axis to move 2 cm, it should move 2 cm!

2) once that is done, then you need to dial in the Slic3r settings. Search slic3r and you'll find some good info. Chris posted the line to the really important Slic3r tutorial

I can tell by your photo that fills are not complete. That could be because your calibration is off and the printer is printing things larger than they should be. The little gap around the inner rectangle is a give-away on that.

cheers,
Michael

Looks to me lie your extruder steps are too low or the filament is slipping, you should verify them.
Also looks like you have significant backlash in X, make sure the belt is tight.
Are you using PLA or ABS?

The beauty of it though is that this is still a functional part. My first attempt was not perfect, but works great.

I did perform some changes in slicer and tried another print and it did really well and was pleased, but I got alot slop and backlash out the wazoo. I don't have the bearing upgrade and there is just way to much play , even with the screws all the way in. I'm not really fond of the whole bearings riding on the shafts anyways. I need to look at some way of adapting some linear bearings, maybe even going to 5/16 shafting, but I just love the blue injection molded parts. I just don't see how I can improve my prints the way it sits now. Those triangular designed bearing blocks are gonna have to go in my opinion. Unless the bearing upgrade makes that big of a difference

kilroyo wrote:I did perform some changes in slicer and tried another print and it did really well and was pleased, but I got alot slop and backlash out the wazoo. I don't have the bearing upgrade and there is just way to much play , even with the screws all the way in. I'm not really fond of the whole bearings riding on the shafts anyways. I need to look at some way of adapting some linear bearings, maybe even going to 5/16 shafting, but I just love the blue injection molded parts. I just don't see how I can improve my prints the way it sits now. Those triangular designed bearing blocks are gonna have to go in my opinion. Unless the bearing upgrade makes that big of a difference

Hey Kilroyo,

I am looking at getting LM6UU's to run on the stock rods. Don't know how this will work 6mm linear bearing on 6.35mm rods. . . but the bearings only cost $11 for 10, so can't hurt to try.
In the mean time I have upgraded ALL plastic bearings, most of the backlash/wobbly problems have been resolved.

-Mike

kilroyo wrote:I did perform some changes in slicer and tried another print and it did really well and was pleased, but I got alot slop and backlash out the wazoo. I don't have the bearing upgrade and there is just way to much play , even with the screws all the way in. I'm not really fond of the whole bearings riding on the shafts anyways. I need to look at some way of adapting some linear bearings, maybe even going to 5/16 shafting, but I just love the blue injection molded parts. I just don't see how I can improve my prints the way it sits now. Those triangular designed bearing blocks are gonna have to go in my opinion. Unless the bearing upgrade makes that big of a difference

FWIW there is a lot more accuracy to be had making sure the belts are tight than doing the bearing upgrade.
I build mine stock (plastic wheels), they replaced the idler pulleys with skate bearings, that was a better upgrade than the bearing upgrade because it allowed me to tighten the belts to the point I could get rid of most of the backlash.
I then did the bearing upgrade and it's certainly worthwhile, but it's not the night and day change that the idler change was.

I also don't know how much of an improvement linear bearings would provide over the triangular blocks with the bearings. I think there are other limiting issues before you get to slop in the bearing blocks. Having said that the linear bearings and rods probably only cost about the same as the bearing upgrade kit.

Kilroyo, the idler upgrade and being able to tighten the slack out of the belts will make your prints look like totally different animals! Start with getting rid of the belt slack, then see how well you can print.

Today I decided to borrow the kids computer and transfer everything over to it and try running the printer from it. Guess the whole issue was the computer I was using, because it printed the best I have seen it so far. Now I gotta try and convince the kids that they really want the older computer I was using

[img]http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/80652411/s ... e/gear.jpg[/img]

the top didnt turn out the greatest, but that looks like it had gotten to hot

Looks much better!
You will need to start playing with settings for temperature and speeds. Now the fun begins!

[quote="kilroyo"]Humm , Well I think I jumped the gun on cussing out the driver, because this morning , I was able to get everything to work. I still have to have the opto in order to not have skewed prints. I attempted at a velleman board holder . Had some problems with it sticking a first. It turned out ok, but not best. I think I will try everything on a faster computer, to see if thats the issue. I'll try and throw up a picture of my setup. When you guys talk about getting it dialed in, What exactly are you guys adjusting. I dont know if what I printed out is typical for a first print, or what.

You posted an image with your message that showed a thermostat board holder with 4 tabs. I have been looking for that STL file and have not found it. The one on Thing Universe does not seem to have the tabs.
Do you know of a source for the STL? Thanks!

This?

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... p=146#p146

I came to the same conclusion. My H-1 Tank has a 4 axis gecko drives G540 running at 26VCD.