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zeroing bed
Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:22 pm
by Behold
This may have been discussed but when I searched the issues didnt seem the same as what is happening with mine.
I have a Rostock Max ver 1.
My hot end became loose from the ceramic sheath and I replaced it with a new hot end.
The new hot end is a different length than the old one.
How do I adjust for the added length?
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:25 pm
by Behold
by the way if i start a print it slams into the glass... scary!
Normally use mattercontrol but have been trying to communicate through repetier to no avail
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 6:26 pm
by Polygonhell
I believe it's covered in the manual, which is available for download.
Basically you need to adjust the X Y and Z max length settings in the EEPROM settings, I think the latest repetier has a quick way to do it from the LCD, but I don't use it.
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:48 am
by Behold
yes, i found that part of it however i cannot connect with repetier. it says its connected but no manual controls or gcode commands respond
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:56 am
by Jimustanguitar
Check your com port in device manager.
If that doesn't work, see if you can connect with Arduino IDE and re-flash it.
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 11:31 am
by Behold
The comport is correct since it is the same in mattercontrol and I am able to control and print from mattercontrol
Currently its COM3
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 11:31 am
by Behold
Love your avatar!
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 11:34 am
by Eaglezsoar
If the com port is correct than the baud rate setting in Repetier Host must be incorrect.
The baud rate has to match what is in the Repetier Firmware.
Re: zeroing bed
Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 11:55 am
by Behold
adjusted the baud rate to 128000 and was able to connect