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Other than the 6 12V +, 7 ground and one green wire, will I be needing any of the other wires? I plan on un-soldering the wires I don't need from the power supply board. And while I have it opened up, replace four of the 12v and four of the ground with single pieces of 8 gauge wire. I converted a power supply years back for a RC car battery charger and this was exactly what I did. Just want to make sure I wont have to take it all apart and re-solder in a wire I should of left alone. I have read through the manual a few times but just thought I would check to make sure.

No wires outside of those in the manual are needed to run the Max. The wires for the main ATX connector are the largest pain if left in place as they take up a good bit of room. I went the modular way instead and it helped clean up a huge amount of space overall in the lower bay. Of course YMMV

I found a few reviews of the supplied power supply and all said it was decent and dependable power supply. I plan on building a 24 volt power supply out of a couple of server PSUs to power my heat bed here in the future, so I didn't see any real need to replace it. The wires are pretty easy to unsolder from the board plus I can increase the dia. of the wire instead of bundling 4 wires together. Thank you for confirming the wiring for me.

I hope my post did not infer that the SeemeCNC PS is bad.. I just went the way I did to keep less wires in the lower bay and because I plan to run some mods off the PS and needed the overhead of 750w instead of the 550w to be safe. No worries and good luck on the build! Looking forward to seeing how it all turns out for you.

Nope didn't get that at all, just explaining my thinking on why I didn't swap for a modular PSU. I am finding that these things can quickly nickle and dime you to death..........just like any other hobby. Plus the inherent inability to leave well enough alone. When It finally came down to it, it was either a E3D V6 hot end or a nicer PSU. I think as designed and supplied these printers are awesome. I'm pretty sure that the printer would work fantastically if built with out any mods, but tinkers will always tinker and who but a serial tinker wold build his own 3D printer. Another printer kit manufacture told me that a R max was very laborious and time consuming to build and would require at least 100 hours to build and tune before I could even think about my first print. Maybe mine is a fluke but it's practically falling together. With the great manual my 9 yr old son is even able to credibly help me assemble it.

Mine went together in just under the 20 hours they predict. I went with the V6 head and have to say I love it! Though read up on PLA jams with all metal hot ends. Not a huge issue but one that must be kept on your mind while printing with PLA and the V6 head. I would suggest one purchase above all else. Spring for a cheap dial indicator and your life will be far easier and your prints will be out of this world! Keeping the calibration to within .001-.002" is easy with one and makes a huge improvement over the paper "feel" method. Let me know if you need a file for the mount. I can send over both the E3d V6 mount files and the one for the calibration dial which uses the same mount to keep things simple.

I would greatly appreciate the files for the mount and indicator adapter.

Me too, you ought to throw it up on Repables!

...and a source for the dial indicator itself. I love that yellow face. *laughs*

g.

Here is the link for the dial.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/300916001666?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT It shows a white and yellow face but I liked what they sent over so did not bother to raise the issue.

Here is the file for the Dial mount This is the mount I used. It worked great as did the fans.
http://repables.com/r/338/

Thanks for the ebay link!

g.

Any time!

Aaaa shizz...

The dial has 45 usd shipping rate to where i live