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hello,

So do I have to use kapton on the glass of the heatbed?

can I UHU glue stick insted of Elmer's Disappearing Purple ???
Thanks
Shlomi

nope, you don't

Unscented hairspray works, gluestick (haven't tried the brand you mentioned) sticks even more aggresivly, people make ABS juice with acetone and ABS... Blue tape works for others. There are lots of options, kapton does work, but is not the only way.

I've used kapton, blue painters tape, glue stick, and abs juice. ABS juice works the best in my opinion. Adheres really well when hot and pops off when cold, plus you get a nice glossy surface on the bottom of the print.

Do you know where I can buy abs juice?

Generally made by dissolving ABS scrap in acetone to obtain a brushable coating.

I would suggest that you look into PEI. Haven't used any of that stuff for ABS or PLA since adding it to my glass build plate.

nitewatchman

I actually covered my bed with 8" x 12" sheets of Kapton (found on Amazon) and then cut two sheets of heavy duty aluminum foil the same size as the glass (put the glass on top of the foil sheet and cut around it with a razor knife), placed both sheets of foil on top of the Kapton and put the glass plate on top of it all. The Kapton keeps anything from shorting out the bed and the aluminum foil really helps to keep the temperature even across my bed. I, too use the ABS juice and I get great adhesion for my prints.

HesDeadJim wrote:I actually covered my bed with 8" x 12" sheets of Kapton (found on Amazon) and then cut two sheets of heavy duty aluminum foil the same size as the glass (put the glass on top of the foil sheet and cut around it with a razor knife), placed both sheets of foil on top of the Kapton and put the glass plate on top of it all. The Kapton keeps anything from shorting out the bed and the aluminum foil really helps to keep the temperature even across my bed. I, too use the ABS juice and I get great adhesion for my prints.

Be careful with aluminum directly on the Onyx bed. A conductive material can short the via holes that link between the layers of the PCB.

On my Trick Laser heat spreader, I put clear contact paper under the aluminum. I may switch to window tint because I hear it's thinner. Either way though, be careful with anything conductive near the Onyx.

Hence the layer of Kapton first, presumably.

Jimustanguitar wrote:

HesDeadJim wrote:I actually covered my bed with 8" x 12" sheets of Kapton (found on Amazon) and then cut two sheets of heavy duty aluminum foil the same size as the glass (put the glass on top of the foil sheet and cut around it with a razor knife), placed both sheets of foil on top of the Kapton and put the glass plate on top of it all. The Kapton keeps anything from shorting out the bed and the aluminum foil really helps to keep the temperature even across my bed. I, too use the ABS juice and I get great adhesion for my prints.

Be careful with aluminum directly on the Onyx bed. A conductive material can short the via holes that link between the layers of the PCB.

On my Trick Laser heat spreader, I put clear contact paper under the aluminum. I may switch to window tint because I hear it's thinner. Either way though, be careful with anything conductive near the Onyx.

That's why I used the Kapton sheets first...works great!

Hi HesDeadJim,

Can you please share the link of Amazon where did you buy the bed and the sheets?