Page 1 of 1
Instead of Kapton, what to use for solder joints?
Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 4:19 pm
by cratica
I'm in the middle of the build and its calling for Kapton tape to cover the solder joints. I want to do this but... I just checked my Kapton tape Amazon order and the delivery is several weeks out! :O So.... what else can I use? I have blue painters tape and I have black electrical tape. Will either work? If not, is there a tape I can purchase locally? (home depot, walmart, Fry's electronics)
Twiddling my thumbs, looking at my build until I figure out a replacement solution!
Re: Instead of Kapton, what to use for solder joints?
Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 6:42 pm
by Captain Starfish
Kapton is used because it can get nice and hot. Electrical or masking tape won't do the job.
Do you have a tube of RTV Silicone (permatex etc) there? Could probably cover the joint in a couple of layer of that if you're careful. But the chance of building up too much thickness or leaving a gap is high, and removing it for another go could lead to problems.
You might be better off finding another supplier of the Kapton tape, mine came via eBay and only took a week.
Re: Instead of Kapton, what to use for solder joints?
Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 9:30 pm
by mhackney
PTFE tubing. It comes in a thin wall and is perfect for this application.
Re: Instead of Kapton, what to use for solder joints?
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:06 pm
by PhoenixNZ
Hi Cratica,
Even if you don't end up using Kapton tape to cover the soldered joints in this particular instance, having Kapton tape on hand I found is pretty much mandatory for owning a 3d printer. If you're willing to pay a little for express delivery I'm sure you could find a seller on ebay or Amazon who could get it to you quickly
So far on my Rostock I've used Kapton tape to:
- Stop the RTV silicone from coming through the top of the heated bed thermistor hole
- Keep wires and soldered joints taped down on underside of heated bed
- Keep my poorly crimped wires from coming loose on my quick disconnnects
- Insulating the barrel of the hotend below the PEEK section (hot end not reaching temperature - this has happened to a bunch of people in the Troubleshooting section of these forums)