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So the manual indicates a distance where paper scrapes under the nozzle. Depending on the paper though, that could be anywhere from .1mm to .2mm. Is there an absolute measure distance that the nozzle should be from the bed? Does it depent on which size nozzle you use (I have .35).

Thanks

If you've got a cash register receipt, you can use that. In fact that's what I did when setting up Casper. It was a receipt from Powell's Books in Portland, OR.

g.

So as close as possible to the glass without touching the glass?

Technically 0 is the head on the build plate.
If you have a feeler gauge, you can set the height, then add on the width of the feeler gauge, setting it to drag on a piece of paper is a pretty decent approximation.

I ended up using the thinnest receipt I could find, prints have been coming out better.

I setup the Z=0 position using a 0.004" feeler gauge. I adjust the nozzle down using the LCD until there is drag on the gauge and set Z=0 there. I then lower the nozzle and additional 0.1mm (0.004") to a position of -0.1mm on the LCD and reset Z zero there.

This places the tip of the nozzle "theoretically" on the surface of the bed. Depending upon how parallel and flat the surface is physically and electronically, it may gap or drag in other places. The gap between the nozzle and the bed is actually then determined by the first layer thickness. If the level is not so good you can run a thicker first layer as long as it is within reason.

While this works for me, to get good results the bed must be parallel to the plane of the effector travel and the spherical error corrected using the horizontal radius.

geneb wrote: It was a receipt from Powell's Books in Portland, OR.
g.

One of the top reason's I miss living in Portland!

Make sure you are at printing temps when doing it, metal expands!!

Everything expands when heated

Except ice.

jdurand wrote:Except ice.

You just didn't heat it enough!