So after I had added two 92mm chassis fans, I turned my attention to the Rambo fan. The kit fan was small and noticeably loud, so it had to go. Would a 92mm fan fit on the back of the Rambo? Yes indeed it would fit, barely. I had read that the stepper chips need the most cooling, so I mounted the board vertically over one of the base cooling holes. The plan was to draw cool air from underneath the base over the back of the board and the stepper chips, and also air from within the base over the other three sides of the back of the board. The fan would exhaust the air towards the back of the base, where the other fans can further exhaust it out of the base. Enough air should enter from around the LCD panel to flow over the front of the board as well.
Note: This mod if for the Rostock Max V2 purchased in August, 2014. The parts are designed to fit the kit parts, and sometimes the kit parts will change over time (I can already see this in some screenshots of kits purchased since I purchased mine - the bottom base plate looks different). So watch the vid and check the pictures below to ensure that your chassis is the same as mine.
[img]https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/teth ... sembly.JPG[/img]
[img]https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/teth ... tached.JPG[/img]
[img]https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/teth ... n_Side.JPG[/img]
[img]https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/teth ... mplete.JPG[/img]
Watch this short vid showing the placement of the parts
http://youtu.be/W7jUIo07XdA
Parts List
1) 1 x printed Rambo fan mount. See the printing instructions below.
2) 1 x 92mm 12v fan. See the fan specs below.
3) 2 x printed Optional base top plate plugs - These are normally filled with the tabs from the kit rambo mounting panel. These plugs prevent air from being sucked down from under the bed, thus cooling it, which is bad. You can also just plug this hole with tape. I used Kapton tape until I made the plugs.
4) 4 x 10mm printed standoffs.
5) 1 x printed Rambo base mount.
6) 4 x 20mm M3 socket cap bolts and nuts. Nylock nuts if possible.
Download the .stl's and GeoMagic (Alibre) source files
https://s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/teth ... n_92mm.zip
The Fan Mount
1)Print this flat on the bed. PLA or ABS is fine. I did mine in PLA since there is less shrinkage and I figured the holes would line up better. You can print this on the Max V2 and it fits fine on the build plate.
2) It's kind of flimsy, but will be quite solid in the right places when you mount the fan to it.
3) The fan should be oriented so that it will blow towards the back of the base.
4) It doesn't come with a fan shroud to protect fingers, but you can find these online and print them, or get metal grills for a dollar or two each.
The Rambo Base Mount
PLA or ABS is fine. This should fit snugly into the base bottom hole and ideally snap into place.
The Standoffs
PLA or ABS is fine. Print vertically if possible.
The Base Top Plate Plugs
PLA or ABS is fine. Should snap into place since they are mounted upside down, and you don't want them to fall out.
What to do with the existing Rambo mount?
You can leave it in there if it doesn't get in the way. I 'uninstalled' mine.
The Fan
I opted for a quiet PC chassis cooling fan here http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX50790. There's lots of good and quiet fans out there for cheap. This was approx $10 USD. Make sure the fan comes with mounting screws. This one also came with optional rubber mounting pins, but they really weren't necessary as there is minimal vibration. Get a fan with three wires, but you will only use two of these wires. One of the three wires is for sensing the rpm by a PC motherboard, which isn't needed for our purposes, so I just clipped it back. Make sure you get a 12v fan since you can run it direct from the ATX or 12v power supply. That way the fan runs whenever the power is switched on. Seriously, I can barely hear this fan running when it is attached to the Rambo, but it moves a good amount of air.
Installation
Print the parts and attach as shown in the video and pictures above. Once you have the Rambo mount inserted into the hole in the base, you can then slowly and carefully back the Rambo/fan/standoff combo into the base and then stand it up vertically over the Rambo mount and insert the bottom of the fan mount into the slot in the Rambo mount. And that's it. You now have a cool and quiet Rambo!
Cheers,
Rostock Max V2 Rambo Cooling with a 92mm Fan
Rostock Max V2 Rambo Cooling with a 92mm Fan
Russ
Vancouver, Canada
Rostock Max V2 - Lovin' it! Mods including dual 92mm chassis fans, vertical 92mm Rambo fan, and AstroSyn dampers.
MendelMax 1.5 - still in the box, what to do?
Thing-O-Matic - Rebuilt carriage, now converting to NinjaFlex
Vancouver, Canada
Rostock Max V2 - Lovin' it! Mods including dual 92mm chassis fans, vertical 92mm Rambo fan, and AstroSyn dampers.
MendelMax 1.5 - still in the box, what to do?
Thing-O-Matic - Rebuilt carriage, now converting to NinjaFlex
- Eaglezsoar
- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:26 pm
Re: Rostock Max V2 Rambo Cooling with a 92mm Fan
Thanks for the pictures and write-up.
This is a very good idea, I plan on implementing it as soon as time allows.
Thank you for sharing with us.
This is a very good idea, I plan on implementing it as soon as time allows.
Thank you for sharing with us.
Re: Rostock Max V2 Rambo Cooling with a 92mm Fan
Nicely done!
g.
g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Re: Rostock Max V2 Rambo Cooling with a 92mm Fan
Looks very professional.
Thank you for the files aswell.
Just a quick note, when dealing with precision mechanics, i always feel uneasy adding unnecessary moving parts. Once the fan gets older or if it is of lesser quality it can start to vibrate which can have a negative effect on your print quality. If you are unlucky enough to catch the resonating frequency of the printer then you can get bigger vibrations than your fan's vibrations. I quite liked the silicone mounting tabs of the noctua fan.
If you are keen on keeping the board cool, i recommend adding some heatsinks to IC's on the RAMB0. Today I ordered these, i believe they will be a fairly beneficial addition to upgrading the fan (mine is a noctua 40x40mm).
[img]http://img.banggood.com/images/upload/2 ... 28156h.JPG[/img]
http://www.banggood.com/30-Pcs-Pure-Cop ... 53187.html
This is probably me being paranoid again...
Thank you for the files aswell.
Just a quick note, when dealing with precision mechanics, i always feel uneasy adding unnecessary moving parts. Once the fan gets older or if it is of lesser quality it can start to vibrate which can have a negative effect on your print quality. If you are unlucky enough to catch the resonating frequency of the printer then you can get bigger vibrations than your fan's vibrations. I quite liked the silicone mounting tabs of the noctua fan.
If you are keen on keeping the board cool, i recommend adding some heatsinks to IC's on the RAMB0. Today I ordered these, i believe they will be a fairly beneficial addition to upgrading the fan (mine is a noctua 40x40mm).
[img]http://img.banggood.com/images/upload/2 ... 28156h.JPG[/img]
http://www.banggood.com/30-Pcs-Pure-Cop ... 53187.html
This is probably me being paranoid again...
When on mobile I am brief and may be perceived as an arsl.