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Heeeelp I'm pulling out the few hairs i got left now..
I've built my Rostock MAX now and really pleased with how it turned out! Cred to @geneb for a fantastic manual. (although i got puzzled by the 18 and 22 gauge wire issues with the manual describing fan wires to be pulled together with 22 gauge) Here in Europe 22 is a larger number than 18 so you'd think a 22 gauge would be bigger than 18 gauge, then i remember that 12 gauge shotgun has a bigger bore than 20 gauge. Spotted it before i did too much damage and tuned into better thoughts before i headed in to get the shotgun and test it.. on the machine that is.
Anyway.. Page 236, adjusting the z height and cheapskate end switch screws. I've done the z height and starting the different coordinate check to avoid ramming the bed. G0 z0 x0 y90 F3500 is ok, G0 z0 x77.94 y-45 F3500 is ok but G0 z0 x-77.94 y-45 F3500 is too tight. I adjusted the X end stop screw 2 turns clock wize and tried again, still 0.2-3 too tight. Did G28 and adjusted the z and y end stop screws counter clock wise 1 turn or so. G28, still too tight. new Z height calibration reduced height with 0.5. Did everything again and still "ramming" the bed at G0 z0 x-77.94 y-45 F3500.

Now i'm all the way in on x tower end stop screw and at what i feel is a dead end, the cheapskate is hitting the end stop swith body. Is my bed that much out if level? I did post a topic earlier that my onyx bed was a rev5-6 bastard with not all the screw holes tapered. I had to taper them my self, byt only had a drill bit with wrong taper angle. I dont think the screws are pointing out of the bed that much, but it could be a tiny bit, i should be able to compensate for that though?

Please help!!

Thomas

I'm trying to understand exactly what your doing but I'm having trouble. Here's how I did it.

Set the end stop screws roughly where the pictures in the manual show.

Home the towers or run G28 command.

On the printer under advanced settings set the Z height. Home the towers then jog the effector down with the dial until it grabs a piece of paper slightly between the glass and the nozzel. Click the dial and goto set new z height. Home the tower.

Manually job the effector down to the first position in the manual. I believe its G0 Z5 X0 Y90 F3500. It should stop roughly 5 mm from the bed. Then in Repetier-host run the Z down in 1 mm increments bringing it close to Z0. If it hits before you get to Z0 I believe you turn the screw to the right to raise the effector or left to lower. You do this for each of the 3 towers using the commands in the manual.

Then, once the roughing the 3 towers in is done you run the scripts one at a time and adjust until each tower individually. Do the first tower over and over until it grabs the paper, then move on to the next. Once all three are perfect run the 4th script to check your delta radius. It will run the effector straight down to z0. If it isn't perfect you adjust the eeprom's delta radius per the manual. Then you have to go back and run each script again and re fine tune each tower one by one. Check the felt radius with script 4 and adjust as needed. Repeat until all 4 points are grabbing equally.

Hopefully this makes sense.

Hey! Thanks for the reply.

The thing is that i've done these steps according to the manual, but i'm still ramming the bed at G0 Z0 X-77.94 Y-45 F3500. I've now turned the screw in 4 turns to the right and it doesn't help turning it more as that cheapskate body is now hitting the end stop switch instead of the actual screw. I'm still lacking approx 0.2-0,3 mm before i get clearance to the bed on that coordinate.

I think i've narrowed it down to the onyx bed screws to being the error. My Onyx bed was shipped without taper in the holes. I had to taper the holes my self by hand, but i see now that at least one of the screws close to the x tower is pointing out. Not much, but i can still feel an edge on the screw head even when putting a sheet of paper close to it. I think this is causing the glass plate to be somewhat higher on this side.

Here's a pic of the bad taper job i did... corrected it now and trying again..

So that didn't help.. i'm completely lost now.. the g0 z0 x-77.94 y-45 f3500 is still ramming the bed and i'mm all the way in on the screw on x tower cheapskate any idea what i could be doing wrong?

I had a similar issue in Casper's build. It turned out that I didn't properly seat the top on one of the towers - it was about 1cm or so from the top of the aluminum extrusion.

g.

If you turn all the screw in the same direction, and the re do your Z 0, you can resume what you were doing.


I.e. if your problem is x screwed all the way in. Usncrew all screws by 3 turns. The re do your z heigt. And you can continue tightening the x crew from where you left off.

The limit switch screw positions are all relative to each other.

Hey Teoman,

You're spot on. I actually tried this a bit earlier, but i didn't adjust all three screws out, just the y and z tower (tried a shortcut). However did this again now with adjusting all the screws out three turns and started all over again. It works! When doing the radius adjustment i ended up turning the screws a fair amount back in so this might have caused some of my troubles. I had to adjust the radius 5 times with increments of 0.5. Don't know if that's much or not. Waiting for the bed to heat up now, ready for my first print!

Thanks alot for the assistance!

ThomasF wrote:Hey Teoman,

You're spot on. I actually tried this a bit earlier, but i didn't adjust all three screws out, just the y and z tower (tried a shortcut). However did this again now with adjusting all the screws out three turns and started all over again. It works! When doing the radius adjustment i ended up turning the screws a fair amount back in so this might have caused some of my troubles. I had to adjust the radius 5 times with increments of 0.5. Don't know if that's much or not. Waiting for the bed to heat up now, ready for my first print!

Thanks alot for the assistance!

I had to do it 5 or 6 times myself... it seems fairly normal Everyone's surface will be different though

Here's hoping that people look at older threads when there is a new post as I rather not start a new thread on a topic that already exists, but has not resolved my specific issue.

I built a Rostock V2 with Rev 6 Onyx plate about a month ago and was quite happy with the small test prints I have done since calibrating the machine. However, this past week I have been trying to print my first functional piece for a machine I am developing and have encountered a number of issues which I attempting to work through one by one. The part in question is a bezel (frame) for a 7" touch screen for the Raspberry Pi which measures roughly 6.9x4.4x1.5 (x, y, z) with a large inside opening that is being printed in ABS

While working to resolve what seems to be the inevitable ABS warp issue, I noticed that my brim is much thinner on the right front corner than it is on the left rear. (0.24 vs 0.60mm with target at 0.35mm) I just tried re-seating my towers and made sure they were square with the build platform. I also made sure my skates were snug and the belts had good tension. I re-calibrated using the paper grab method and thought I was getting the same grab in the four calibration points (each tower and center). Upon staring my current print, it appears I still have the same uneven first layer, thin right front, thick left rear. I'm letting the print continue as it's a thin wall version of the original part (that had 15% in-fill at last attempt) and I want to see: a) if thin walls help and b) if the thin wall with a few ribs will have the strength needed. I will report the brim thickness when the print finishes (4 hours) or fails.

Obviously, I will not get very far with other warp solving attempts if my first layer does not print very even. I am looking for suggestions on ways to get my bed level (or head level with bed). Will check that all screws are equally snug on the onyx. Any other suggestions out there? I have a dial indicator for my bench top mill, but have not looked at how I might attach it to the hot end platform.

You do not need to fondle the screws at all.

A fellow wrote an excellent thread on it ( i cannot recall his name even though i tried to memoruse it a few times). He was called something like artmx. He has a couple of those minions from despicable me on his avatar.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=5906

I will need to calibrate again at sometime soon.

I put weights on my bed an caused it to fully settle. And i will not be using any screws.