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Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:16 pm
by PrintableStudios
Just got the shipping information for my kit. The countdown has officially started until it arrives.

In the mean time I am preparing the various things I'll need to complete the build.

I'm thinking about using a Corsair RM650 for the power supply and harvesting a heater cartridge from an old hot end instead of using the power resistors.

I'll be switching to the E3D V6 in the near future but I plan on doing some comparisons between a couple of hot ends for some upcoming content.

I noticed on the SeeMeCNC Instagram that they appear to be working on what looks like an all metal dual extrusion setup.

Anyone have any insight on that?

Re: Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:24 pm
by crocky
Dampers are one of the best mods you can do....

The power supply that comes in the kit is fine, the newer kits have much better breathing holes now... I did a 10 hour print yesterday and it was all good.

I did the Heater Cartridge and screw in thermistor for the hot end and they are nice mod as well...

Re: Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 8:10 am
by Jimustanguitar
PrintableStudios wrote:I noticed on the SeeMeCNC Instagram that they appear to be working on what looks like an all metal dual extrusion setup.
Yep, it's a hot-end made out of aluminum :)

Haven't seen the prototype for myself yet (not sure about the dual part either). Should be cool though, those guys are meticulous about their designs.

Re: Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2014 11:08 am
by PrintableStudios
Playing with the fan mount with some PLA. Swapping over to ColorFabb XT for the final print.

[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1dyl ... /photo.JPG[/img]

Re: Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 11:15 am
by PrintableStudios
[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ji_T ... o/1833.JPG[/img]

The kit has arrived!

I didn't have much time to dedicate to the assembly yesterday, but I managed to do a quick inventory and prep the laser cut pieces.

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/tsoRD ... 89-h892-no[/img]

I had originally planned to keep the laser mask in place and paint the edges of the boards for a more personal touch, but after removing the masking tape holding the parts, I've decided to just press on without painting. Keeping the laser mask intact proved to be quite difficult, especially in the areas where it was already peeling away.

I did notice when removing a couple of pieces that there was a bit of an error when the cut was started, but after a quick fitment check they appear to be OK.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ac83 ... o/1836.JPG[/img]

I'll be headed out of work a little early today to get an earlier start on the assembly this evening. Hopefully I have some more progress to show tomorrow.

Re: Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:32 am
by BONE
Good luck on the build.

Contact SeeMeCNC Support about those cheapskates, you'll want to make sure they are good. The hole pattern on them for some reason is meant not square. They will send you replacement parts for free for anything that is messed up. Go through all you hardware also and double check that. I had issues with broken pieces and missing hardware.

Re: Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:35 am
by PrintableStudios
Well after a few days, I'm almost complete with the mechanical assembly.

The power supply mod was fairly straight forward. I stuck with the manual and decided not to remove the extra wires. I'm considering a Corsair power supply for the future, but given the increase in size from the original I figure I'd give it a shot.

[img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y9To ... G_2269.JPG[/img]

The base came together quickly, which in turn made it hard to set down the tools for the night.

[img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R1BK ... G_2271.JPG[/img]

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i3xl ... G_2274.JPG[/img]

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zZRl ... G_2278.JPG[/img]

The heated bed assembly went as well as I could have hoped. A lapse in reading comprehension skills made the process a bit longer because I soldered the 22 ga wire instead of the 18 ga. Live and learn.

[img]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Fee7 ... G_2282.JPG[/img]

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i-DS ... G_2284.JPG[/img]

Threading in the wires was not as difficult as I had imagined. I took the advice of one of my electricians and used some nylon string to pull the wires through. This made this process pretty easy. Had I used a bit of lubricant, it would have been easier, but I didn't want to risk any issues later on.

[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-72fE ... G_2283.JPG[/img]

I should have taken more pictures to describe the process I used but it boils down to the following steps:

Bundle the wire.
Wrap a string in loose spirals down the wire about 4-6".
Tape over the string and wires with one to two wraps. I used Kapton tape, but any style tape should work as long as the overall diameter of the bundle is taken into consideration.
Drop the string through the tower. It will need a little help on occasion, but is should go through pretty easy.
Pull the wire through. In my case a good amount of force was needed for the 18 ga and the 22/26 ga combo. I staggered the end stop wires so that the pins were not in one large bundle, but spaced about 3-4" apart. This allowed the end stop wires to be pulled through at one time.

Tower install was pretty easy once the t nuts were set to the proper depth. I had to tighten/loosen a couple to get the proper alignment. Again reading comprehension failure.

[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VvOE ... G_2289.JPG[/img]

I'm extremely blessed to have a 'big helper' to work alongside me with this build. He is so excited about the new 'robot'.

[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7TW1 ... G_2293.JPG[/img]

The most rewarding part of this particular build has been sharing it with him.

The infamous top plate gave me quite the challenge. I had everything complete. T Nuts tight. Belts tight. Etc, only to find that I had manged to have it rotated one axis to the right.

[img]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H9tF ... G_2304.JPG[/img]

It was at this moment that I decided to stop staying up till the wee hours of the morning drinking beer and assembling the remaining pieces.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7ita ... G_2305.JPG[/img]

[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/6WZkO ... 89-h892-no[/img]

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_1nGb ... 69-h892-no[/img]

I discovered my drunken mistake the next morning when I went to mount the extruder.

[img]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-PeHA ... G_2311.JPG[/img]

Once I got everything back together I decided to mount the arms to see how everything was going to play out motion wise.

[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LuaD ... G_2315.JPG[/img]

I'm still waiting on my threaded thermistor to complete the hotend. Once that arrives, it's on to the electrical install.

This has been a very satisfying build compared to kits and homebrews I've completed in the past. I cannot wait to get everything up and running for the first test prints.

Cheers!

Re: Printable Studios Rostock MAX V2 Build

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:37 am
by PrintableStudios
BONE wrote:Good luck on the build.

Contact SeeMeCNC Support about those cheapskates, you'll want to make sure they are good. The hole pattern on them for some reason is meant not square. They will send you replacement parts for free for anything that is messed up. Go through all you hardware also and double check that. I had issues with broken pieces and missing hardware.
Thanks BONE!

I peeled back the mask and did a quick assembly on the rail and everything came out OK.

The circles were a bit out of round, but the parts are functionally good to go after a quick pass with a drill bit.