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I'm just trying to print a small part... I start the print. It goes around a couple times and then it just stops like i shut it off... Errors are below. Please help me, this is extremely annoying...

18:03:40.253 : Reduced visual quality for better framerates and to protect print quality.
18:03:40.253 : You can disable this in Config->Repetier settings->Behaviour.
18:03:47.336 : start
18:03:48.630 : Free RAM:1143
18:03:48.630 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00
18:03:50.736 : SD init fail
18:03:50.783 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_0.91 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:ROSTOCK MAX EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 REPETIER_PROTOCOL:2
18:03:50.783 : Printed filament:1125.67m Printing time:7 days 9 hours 32 min
18:03:50.799 : Begin file list
18:03:50.814 : End file list
18:17:20.347 : Printing layer 1 of 62
18:17:20.861 : Reduced visual quality for better framerates and to protect print quality.
18:17:20.861 : You can disable this in Config->Repetier settings->Behaviour.
18:17:22.359 : Disabled additional filament drawing for better framerates and to protect print quality.
18:17:22.359 : You can disable this in Config->Repetier settings->Behaviour.
18:18:34.618 : start
18:18:35.913 : Free RAM:1143
18:18:35.913 : X:0.00 Y:0.00 Z:0.00 E:0.00
18:18:38.019 : SD init fail
18:18:38.066 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_0.91 FIRMWARE_URL:https://github.com/seemecnc/Repetier-091-ROSTOCKMAX PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:ROSTOCK MAX EXTRUDER_COUNT:1 REPETIER_PROTOCOL:2
18:18:38.066 : Printed filament:1125.67m Printing time:7 days 9 hours 32 min
18:18:38.066 : Begin file list
18:18:38.066 : End file list

"like i shut it off" is a bad way to explain it... its almost like i clicked kill print... On the display it also says print killed. I haven't changed anything, I don't know whats going on... This is with Repetier Host V1.06 using 0.91 Firmware. I've got some printing on this thing and now it doesnt seem to want to work. I'm not using the SD feature as well.

COOL..... Thats fun... Anyone have this happen?
[img]http://i.imgur.com/sxsiTHhl.jpg[/img]

Ugh. Was just reading another thread where someone had that happen. Can't find it at the moment, so no link, sorry. You can send the RAMBo board to Ultimachine for repair if necessary.

Great... right in the middle of a print for work too...

The bed pulls a lot of current, it's a lot for those screw terminals. They can take it but they need to be tight. It would also help to use a larger wire.

I don't think the size of the wire is at issue.

The tightness of the screw is one element.

The cleanness of the connection is another. Any, even slight oxidization on the wire or terminal will cause the connection itself to become a resistor... the same device heating the hot end and heated bed (essentially). So that is why it is melting. There was excess resistance at that connector. Heat will also cause oxidization to form very rapidly, so once you have a little bit, it quickly creates more and eventually causes tremendous heat. It's a very quick snowball effect.

This could be caused by something as simple as the oil on your finger from when you twisted the wires. I cleaned all the wires with alcohol before, while twisting, and after twisting the wires. I then clamped them down as TIGHT as I could and never want to touch it. Ever.

If that isn't good enough, and my connection eventually becomes melty, then I will start to point to other things. I've had this exact thing occur to a connection on a RAMPS board that was visually VERY oxidized afterwards, even for a bit of length down the wire. The connection will heat up a little no matter what, so it is imperative that it be completely clean the first time it is installed.

If anyone is worried that this might happen to them, I'd advise them to look at the condition of the ends of their wires (both the output and input power wires) if there is any slight discoloration (if it is not shiny copper), cut the wire until you see shiny copper, clean your fingers with isopropyl alcohol (97% pure, not the watered down stuff), dip the wire in the alcohol, twist the wire with your fingers dripping with alcohol, then dip it in alcohol again and put it right into the connection (still wet with alcohol, a little bit, is fine, even desired. It will evaporate shortly.) Then tighten down.

A larger wire works as a heat sink for the connection. Some manufacturers of connectors spec a higher current capability if a larger wire is used. For example: http://www.te.com/catalog/cinf/en/c/12859/1560

bot wrote:I don't think the size of the wire is at issue.

The tightness of the screw is one element.

The cleanness of the connection is another. Any, even slight oxidization on the wire or terminal will cause the connection itself to become a resistor... the same device heating the hot end and heated bed (essentially). So that is why it is melting. There was excess resistance at that connector. Heat will also cause oxidization to form very rapidly, so once you have a little bit, it quickly creates more and eventually causes tremendous heat. It's a very quick snowball effect.

This could be caused by something as simple as the oil on your finger from when you twisted the wires. I cleaned all the wires with alcohol before, while twisting, and after twisting the wires. I then clamped them down as TIGHT as I could and never want to touch it. Ever.

If that isn't good enough, and my connection eventually becomes melty, then I will start to point to other things. I've had this exact thing occur to a connection on a RAMPS board that was visually VERY oxidized afterwards, even for a bit of length down the wire. The connection will heat up a little no matter what, so it is imperative that it be completely clean the first time it is installed.

If anyone is worried that this might happen to them, I'd advise them to look at the condition of the ends of their wires (both the output and input power wires) if there is any slight discoloration (if it is not shiny copper), cut the wire until you see shiny copper, clean your fingers with isopropyl alcohol (97% pure, not the watered down stuff), dip the wire in the alcohol, twist the wire with your fingers dripping with alcohol, then dip it in alcohol again and put it right into the connection (still wet with alcohol, a little bit, is fine, even desired. It will evaporate shortly.) Then tighten down.

Very well written bot.
I would like to add this, tighten up the connector at install then check it once a week for one month. Each week when you test it, try to tighten the screw a little more, usually after the printer has been run for awhile so
that everything is warmed up. Do not try to twist the screw off just try to tighten it a little. After the 4 tightening sessions it is as tight as it is going to be.
Earthbound's suggestion to send the card to Ultimachine for repair is a good one. Just contact them about sending the board to them for repair. Be sure that you are using stranded wire with no solder on the wire where it
connects under the screw.

Good point about tightening the screws a few times at first. I will make sure I do that.

The one (and only, I think) disadvantage of having such a clean and compact design, is that the controller board is no longer right there to visually inspect and be in your mind. It's good to remember that it is the one point that EVERYTHING comes together. Highest chance for failure, statistically, is with that board. CHECK IT!

rpress wrote:A larger wire works as a heat sink for the connection. Some manufacturers of connectors spec a higher current capability if a larger wire is used. For example: http://www.te.com/catalog/cinf/en/c/12859/1560

Interesting to point out, but I think that would only delay the issue. If there is oxidization on a 18awg or 12awg wire, either way it's still going to eventually become a problem.

This is great info and all but how do i fix this? The board still seems to work aside from the heat bed port... I've had this machine for 3 months. Do I contact the seemecnc or Ultimachine?