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So I successfully completed the PID autotune for the hotend and the bed separately, and either one will heat up fine on it's own, but as soon as I heat them both up together for calibration, the whole thing shuts off in under a minute. I have a E3D V6 hotend installed. I found this thread about the same issue, but didnt really get a definitive answer. This is the power supply that came with my kit. I would love to know any recommended alternate PSUs, recommended wattage, or any tips at all for this rather large issue, Thanks!!

12V about 20A should suffice. I am not a great fan of bastardising a computer power supply unless I was going to use the connectors.


But if I were in your shoes, I would get a 12V power supply and a 24V 20A power supply.

A good tip, if you're going the PC ATX PSU route (LOL WTF BBQ) is to make sure you get a PSU with a single 12V rail. Otherwise, you might not be using the PSU's full potential (PTNTL).

K?

bot wrote:A good tip, if you're going the PC ATX PSU route (LOL WTF BBQ) is to make sure you get a PSU with a single 12V rail. Otherwise, you might not be using the PSU's full potential (PTNTL).

K?

Yeah i know that I definitely want to stick with a 12V rail. Considering my issue, do you think I just need a PSU with higher watts?? Thanks K?

Seriously though, many high-wattage computer power supplies have multiple rails. I guess it's a great feature for computers, but not so much for printers. So watch out for that.

Why is it not a great feature? The power supply I used has 5 rails. I mixed wires from all of them and the printer has no power troubles at all.

It's not that it won't work, it's that it's not necessary. Chances are even one of those rails can supply the power needed for the printer. A single rail just simplified things.

I am currently using this power supply http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulat ... wer+supply. I've cranked the voltage up to 15 volts, which gets my rev 2 bed up to temperature in about 8 minutes. with the bed and two 40 watt cartridges powered, the voltage only dips to around 14.8. The only downside to this psu is that your 110 line voltage is exposed, unless you take the proper precautions. I wired the line voltage for the psu through the stock switch, and so far it hasn't failed.

You have 120V power going through the stock power swtich!?!?

bot wrote:It's not that it won't work, it's that it's not necessary. Chances are even one of those rails can supply the power needed for the printer. A single rail just simplified things.

Oh, when you said "not great" I thought you meant "bad." If you meant "neutral" then yeah, I agree with that.

bot wrote:You have 120V power going through the stock power swtich!?!?

It's rated for it. My main concern was the inrush current when its first turned on,,,, however it is no where near as bad as my old Rivergate, 30 amp supply. that one "pops" when you plug it in.

I also put heat shrink on the wires at the switch so I'm less likely to get "bit" when I'm messing around in there.

Woah it's good for 120V? Dang talk about over-engineered haha.

Much easier to find a switch rated for 100-240VAC than it is one rated for 12VDC. Problem is DC switches tend to melt down when switched under load. Once the arc starts it keeps going. AC switches don't have this problem in that the arc goes out every cycle of the mains power.

Very interesting, thanks for the info.

As per my thread in this subforum, I've switched to a Corsair HX750 as I couldn't actually keep my temps up printing ABS.

Absolutely solid now, no LED flicker either...

add1ct3dd wrote:As per my thread in this subforum, I've switched to a Corsair HX750 as I couldn't actually keep my temps up printing ABS.

Absolutely solid now, no LED flicker either...

Did you have to add any extra load to the 5V supply?

dtgriscom wrote:

add1ct3dd wrote:As per my thread in this subforum, I've switched to a Corsair HX750 as I couldn't actually keep my temps up printing ABS.

Absolutely solid now, no LED flicker either...

Did you have to add any extra load to the 5V supply?

Weirdly not

Only some PSUs you have to, seems to depend on the manufacturer and specific PSU as to whether you do or not!

I also tried 5v loading the stock PSU, made no difference (it's basically scrap).