Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Here is some information for those that are trying to print with T-Glase.
Orion with E3D V6 hot end .4mm nozzle stock

Using glue stick on glass bed worked well (Always calibrate head when changing anything)
I put mine to within .05mm of bed.
I ran this part with skirt 15mm from part with 2 lines to make sure it was printing well.
Extruder temperature 240 deg C
Bed temperature 60 deg C
Fan on for all layers 60%

Print speed 3mm/sec
Layer height .35mm
Part is hollow with no base ( would look real nice painted with the new stuff that makes T-Glase clear)
Any critique appreciated just posting this so people having trouble printing with T-Glase have a starting point.
Still learning myself thanks to all the help I have received from the kind people on this forum.

This part is a model of a glass hollow Retroreflector

Nice print, and thank you for sharing your settings.

Absolutely perfect print... i wish i could do like you. Keep sharing..

Excellent print from a difficult to use filament.
You prove that it can be done!

Next Step : Make it optically clear

http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html

Witchcraft!

Every time I load up my spool of T-Glase something strange happens.

Looks like I need to get my E3D-V6 installed.

I see MakerGeeks has a new brand of "optically clear" ABS. It's even food safe!

http://www.makergeeks.com/befi1glclfi.html

PrintableStudios wrote:Witchcraft!

Every time I load up my spool of T-Glase something strange happens.

Looks like I need to get my E3D-V6 installed.

Increase the extrusion width in your slicer, the filament is very prone to snapping when stretched, I went through a reel of the stuff before I realized.
I suspect all the people reporting it being easy to print are using Slic3r with default extrusion width since it picks what I would normally consider to be a width that is way too high for the nozzle diameter.