Bed Adhesion - I'm at my wits end

[Proto]

Well, here is my latest attempt.

[img]http://www.home.comcast.net/~proto//Maxx/DSC_0021.JPG[/img]

As you can see, my part broke free Again. This part has a base of 3.25" dia. and it epands to 4.5" at .25" high... So it's a mushroom shape. The part that is lifting off looks like it is just support. And since it doesn't look warped, I'm letting it finish.
EDIT - it looks like all of the supports broke free in the affected area. I haven't pulled the part off yet to see how bad the warpage is.

• Material - ABS
• Hot End Temp - 230°c
• Bed Temp - 100°c
• Perimeter feed-rate - 35mm/sec
• Infill feed-rate - 40mm/sec
• Travel Rate - 300mm/sec
• Slicer - MatterControl
• Z-Lift - 2mm
• "Only Retract When Crossing Perimeters" - Disabled

Current Adhesion Technique - Glue Stick coating on top of Aussie Purple "Extreme Hold" hair spray.

I have tried Blue painters tape (works great for small parts), Elmers Disappearing Purple Glue Stick, Aqua Net Extra Super Hold, Aqua Net on top of Glue Stick, and finally Glue Stick on top of Hair Spray. Everyone has broken free, some quicker than others.

One thing I have noticed, is that MatterControl doesn't always raise the Hot End before executing a Rapid Move. Most of the time it is when the supports are being printed. I can hear the Hot End drag across the top of the part during those rapid moves.

Should I try a different Slicer? (I have Cura and Craftware installed but not setup). The only technique I have not tried is the dissolved Glue stick painted onto the glass.

My last recourse is to switch to something that doesn't shrink as much as ABS, maybe PLA?

[lightninjay]

Sadly this does seem more like a case of ABS shrinkage. I've been printing with PLA mostly lately, so I've forgotten largely about shrinkage breaking parts loose.

If you're adamant about printing this part with ABS, try making a shroud of some sort in order to keep more of the heat in.

[precisionpete]

Since your hot end is hitting the part this is contributing to your part lifting.
I haven't printed anything with ABS only PLA and I don't have any issues so far with lifting.
Stop using multiple things to stick the part to the bed. Use 1 only.
All I can offer, good luck.

[Earthbound]

2nd vote for not layering your hairspray and gluestick. I think either one alone works better than a mix.

You might also try cleaning the glass and putting down a single layer of Kapton tape (don't need to cover the whole bed, just the contact area of this print). ABS sticks nicely to Kapton.

All things said, ABS warps like mad (shrinks as it cools). So you print a layer. If it is large and takes more than a few seconds to print, the next layer gets printed on top of a base that has already cooled some. If you're trying to print a round plate, this stress is trying to shape it into a bowl. This is why layer or part cooling fans are not typically use when printing ABS (usually only turned on while bridging). Unlike PLA, you want the previous layer to remain as hot as possible so there is less differential between it and the next layer to be printed. There will still be shrinkage of the material, but less bending stress.

Enclosing the build chamber is the next option.

[Eaglezsoar]

Printing a brim around the part may help to adhere it to the print surface.

[jesse]

Get some PEI (Ultem) from Amazon

[Proto]

EUREKA - or - I maybe slow, but I'm consistent!

After trying PLA without a cooling fan (interesting outcome. not right, but definitely interesting) I decided to try and print with a trash bag over the printing area, and it worked (read the slow but consistent line again)

it is kind of a pain considering I have to place the bag on after starting the print. But a bit of pain is worth not printing scrap.

[beilmandesign]

Printing a brim around the part may help to adhere it to the print surface.

Yup a brim, or if you are using mattercontrol use a raft. It works magic on my problem parts. Read this: https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/ ... ith-a-raft