Cartesian - if permitted here :D

[RegB]

Anyone else ?
I am thinking of a Lulzbot Kittaz - which is the T4 in kit form.
Roughly comparable to Rostock Max in build volume.
Quite a bit more money though, like $600 more for the basic kit and that doesn't include LCD panel & SDHC card reader - that upgrade is about $170.

Taz4 assembled is ~$2200, base kit is ~$1600

BTW, the stock machine is for 3mm filament, conversion to 1.75 procedure is published and that seems simple and cheap to do.

What else ?
What else ?

[Earthbound]

I nearly bought a Lulzbot T4. There are some things I really like about it. I briefly considered the Kittaz, to save a few dollars. I think the LCD/SD add-ons are essential pieces and wouldn't buy it without adding them. Lulzbot has a good reputation and a really good product.

I ended up buying a Rostock Max V2. Not counting the initial build time to assemble the kit, I think the RMV2 takes more time to dial it for maximum quality. I like to tinker, so I don't view the extra work as a shortcoming.

The Lulzbot T4 is supposed to be ready to print within minutes of opening the box. If it lives up to that claim, I think it is an outstanding value for someone who just wants to print instead of fiddling with the printer. It has a large build platform (which was my primary requirement). Max can build taller, but I have yet to need/use that capability.

[RegB]

I just "read the fine manual" for the kit assembly, much as I did with the Rostock Max2.
I too like to "tinker" so the $430 or so lower cost of the kit would GET me a few additional hours of what to me is play time.
I got more out of building the max than I have got out of actually PRINTING with it

A few things to note;
There seems to be no "wiring" to be done - - as I understand the term.
No soldering, no wire stripping, no crimping (Praise be}.
Everything comes as pre-made cable assemblies with plugs already on each end - WOW.
This wouldn't pass in places I used to work at; They recommend blobs of hot melt glue to tack some wiring to the inside of the case, to keep it away from the RamBo board.

Bed leveling seems simple; sheet of paper as a feeler gauge, go to each corner and adjust the corner screws - done and done.
Not clear to me how they calibrate to the initial home though.

Upgrades, i.e. dual extruder, flex extruder, hot ends ain't cheap - but money goes to hobbies as we let it

[Kevinvandeusen]

it calibrates the z home with a adjustable screw on the left side, that hits the endstop switch. Super easy to do. My taz runs flawlessly with 1.75

[Flateric]

I believe geneb would be your best source of info on these printers locally in the forum here as I believe he owns one personally.

[geneb]

The only issue I've had is the leaking hot end. I got a new one last month and it leaked, they replaced it and we'll see if the new one leaks. I haven't printed that much on it.

I spent a great deal of time installing the mods needed to do the firmware-based auto-level and now I never use it. I use the MC auto-level wizard and it works perfectly. It DOES require that you've got anti-backlash nuts on your Z axis though.

I've never been able to order the 1.75 insert. It's NEVER in stock.

g.

[Kevinvandeusen]

Here is where I got my inserts.
http://www.geeetech.com/budaschnozzle-2 ... p-787.html

[geneb]

Thanks Kevin. How do you install the silly thing?

g.

[Kevinvandeusen]

you have to print out some new parts to replace the ones that run 3mm. then disassemble, and reassemble with new parts. Of, course you need to change some software settings too. adafruit has an excellent tutorial. Mine prints great with 1.75. On an unrelated sidenote, I just bought a 5 month old type a series 1 2014 for $1000! Person was frustrated, I was grateful to assist them!! Another project to add to the list.

[geneb]

Ok, thanks!

g.

[RegB]

I am holding off on this, for a while at least.
PART of the reason for looking at other printers was to get into multiple extruders/materials/colors.
I know it CAN be done on the Max, but I would like to keep ONE printer together and running,
b'sides, I just wanna build something ELSE.

I don't foresee me doing much single material/color on what I build next, so I wanted to delete the
single extruder & hot end and add the dual setup from day one.
It turns out they can't/won't do that.
I can't delete the $300 part I won't use and get a credit against the $500 part I would use exclusively.

It would top $2K and although I am entitled to a birthday gift from me next month I think it won't be that.

Right now I am looking at Mendel tri color, a little over $800 with shipping {$83 from my notes} so less than half
a lulzbot and there is more work to be done - I'm OK with that.