warping got better but not good enough

[burro breath]

So I have the following settings
Extruder 235c
Bed 70c
Infill 10% honeycomb
Speed 60mm/m
Layer height .2 mm
Nozzle diameter .3mm

I still have issues where there are either small cracks between sone layers on things that are printed with thick walls. On things with thin walls (tried to print a piggy bank) the walls totally warp as to make the part unprintable. The piggy bank warped so bad that it has a 1/2 crack on one side and warped totally off the build plate 3/4 of the way through an 18 hour print. Whats my issue? Is my feed rate to high when i print thin walled objects?

[Glacian22]

I'm assuming this is ABS right? The first thing I'd do is crank up the bed temp to 90-100c. Second, if it's cool or drafty in the room you do your printing in I'd think about an enclosure of some sort to keep that breeze or chill off of the printer while it's running.

[Polygonhell]

If it's cracks your trying to combat, other than keeping drafts off the part about the only thing that works is printing hotter.
ABS doesn't bond very well at lower temperatures.

[JFettig]

Definitely NEED an enclosure to print ABS more than an inch tall on a print that takes more than a couple hours. All it takes is 35C ambient temp and it greatly reduces warping. Also crank up that heated bed to 85-90C.

I have printed numerous 24+hour 13" tall prints inside of my enclosure in ABS with minimal to no cracking - better quality filament helps too.

[Polygonhell]

Definitely NEED an enclosure to print ABS more than an inch tall on a print that takes more than a couple hours. All it takes is 35C ambient temp and it greatly reduces warping. Also crank up that heated bed to 85-90C.

I have printed numerous 24+hour 13" tall prints inside of my enclosure in ABS with minimal to no cracking - better quality filament helps too.

That is simply not true I printed a 9 inch high, 6 inch diameter model last weekend in some Ultimachine Yellow ABS that had been sitting around for a couple of years, no cracking, no heated chamber, 80 degree Bed 240 degree extruder temperature. Now it was only 10% infill, but I've run prints of similar size with upto 50% infill successfully.

Depending on the ABS you might have to go even hotter to get good enough interlayer bonding to prevent cracking, but much hotter than 240 with the stock hotend, and you are gambling with it failing.

If your designing large parts to be printed in ABS you shoud be aware of what features are more likely to cause issues, specifically you want to avoid sharp none radiused corners, circular shapes have the least issue.
For example I could not reliably print the corner vertex for the Mini Kossel in ABS, I had one usable print out of 4 attempts, every one failed at the corners on the square end of the vertex, it didn't crack, but every one that failed warped to the point of being unusable.

[Durandal]

I guess I'll add my bragging rights here. I've done a 19" tall part at 20% infil, bed 100C Extruder 235C, as well as a 60 hour, 9" tall build of two separate parts at 95% infill, 100C & 230C. The later of which did have some minor cracking, which was why I started using 235C for ABS. But, this was in a very still air warehouse which was kept at around 65F, homes tend to have more drafts since the rooms are smaller. But it's not impossible, just have to crank up the heat.

[DavidF]

Same old problem in another new post....people must forget what the search button is for.