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I just installed my tricklaser arms on my Max V2 tonight and the slop is GONE. After doing another bed height adjustment and subsequent diameter roundness tweak and endstop adjustment, i tried to print the 200mm test circle pattern. It did not go well. The outer circle between the towers (outside of the triangle) were so close to the bed they would not print, it actually scraped up the glue i had on the bed. it wasn't even though. it was really bad between 1:00and 2:30 on the clock face, and less of between 3:30 and 5:30. Im sure part of this is my bad level, but i had the paper test nailed. grrrr. The printer could do a nice even circle before the arm upgrade. My diagonal arm length did not change from the 269mm stock number.

I am sure i have a setting that needs to be adjusted, but i have no idea what that setting is. would adjusting the diagonal arm length down a bit help? Can a brotha get a print master!!

I am currently reading this thread and nodding constantly. THIS is my issue. is there a TLDR answer? I'm playing with arm length now. http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=4868

this issue began when i swapped arms. technically the only thing i changed was arm length. but how am i going to correct the fact that only two of the three corners (A, B)are too low?

I had the same problem when I installed tridprinting kit arms. I measured the arms precisely but I was still having the between tower problem. At first I fudged the arm length and it worked. But I was also seeing slightly smaller parts than shrinkage should cause.

I put the arm length back and changed the steps/mm to 81.0 for all axis. Because they are timing belts the pitch should be pretty accurate when made. However my current theory is that the belts are accurate when relaxed but stretch when they are tensioned.

I haven't even gotten into size adjustments yet. I'm trying to keep the print head from gouging the bed.

I would leave the arm length at 269 mm and adjust the delta radius value to tweak the dish/crown shape of the head travel.
Increase in .5 increments until you get it to travel more flat to the print surface.
Increase = lowers nozzle in center of bed.
Decrease = raises nozzle in center of bed.

The latest revision of Genes manual details this procedure.


I realize this does not fix the slight dips in certain areas, but it will help overall and should get you printing.
Also make your first layer thicker so it is more forgiving. (also can increase extrusion width for just the first layer)
I use .3 first layer and .2 for rest.

What's the tolerance of your arms Brian?

i just used a gauge to get it spot on at the four adjustable points and radius, and I already have the first level set to .30. Thanks. I never noticed this issue before i did the arm swap. the fact that there is a single thin area and leads me to suspect this new arm setup has just highlighted an existing assembly issue. it was my first printer, so any mistakes I've made have yet to be learned.

rpress wrote:What's the tolerance of your arms Brian?

each individual arm length is set on the the same jig, so I would say within .05 mm of 269

I think the install of the better TL arms highlighted existing issues in my build. I used a washer on one screw, and shaved another spacer down to fix my high and low points. The bed is now as level as it has ever been. We shall see if i can print a circle. A dial gauge was a HUGE help.

Another way to look at the horizontal radius adjustment is that it doesn't affect the nozzle in the center (because it doesn't), it affects the shape of the outer edges of the circle.

So raising the number raises the nozzle when it's on the edge, lowering the number lowers the nozzle when it's near the outer edge. The center really does remain the same. Thee same Z height and everything.

I had my arms come pre-assembled. After about a 9 months of use I had a couple of the ends start to come lose. A little super glue got them back in place firmly but they had a significant impact in my prints that was hard to track back down to it for such a small shift that they were having.

lordbinky wrote:I had my arms come pre-assembled. After about a 9 months of use I had a couple of the ends start to come lose. A little super glue got them back in place firmly but they had a significant impact in my prints that was hard to track back down to it for such a small shift that they were having.

Hi, Binky.

I just diagnosed the same problem with my Tricklaser arms: the ends have come loose. Some of the ends slide in and out, creating mayhem. I came here to see what people know about it.

I got my arms about a year ago. I wonder whether the glue is failing due to age or vibration.

Superglue, eh? I was going to use epoxy. It's a trip to the hardware store in either case.

They're still great arms, but now we know they need annual maintenance. (-:

Following up to myself. It's been another three years, and my arms are still holding together. I switched from hexagonal infill to rectilinear a while ago, and that cut way down on the vibration.

Thanks for the update mate. It was an interesting read. I am considering upgrading my arms to CF tubes but I'm scared that I am going to cause myself more headache than it is worth.