I wanted to test the Orion's bridging capabilities so I thought that printing a chair without supports would be a good test, especially the seat part of it.
I used this file: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:658474
Print video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0Tw6T- ... e=youtu.be
The retraction could be tinkered with but its pretty much just dabbing plastic on the legs but I don't think it went too bad. The seat part is far cleaner than ever thought it would be. Would be interesting if anyone else felt like printing in the same orientation and shared their results.
Supportless Chair Torcher Test
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Re: Supportless Chair Torcher Test
Just tried this out of interest using ABS, a slightly lower than normal temp (129.. im normally 132 for this filament) with the Layer fan on 100% after layer 3 which depressed the Nozzle temp further to ~128.
I didn't get any real stringing but its hard to tell from my photos. The underside of the chair base has a bit of droop but on the whole I'd say the entire reason for
what looks like improved bridging is I must be at a lower temp relative to my filament and layer fan is on 100% which means better bridging...
Stringing will be a good thing on the layers just before it starts bridging for obvious reasons..
I'll take some better photos of the underside to show the area it had difficulty with (looks same area as yours..)
I didn't get any real stringing but its hard to tell from my photos. The underside of the chair base has a bit of droop but on the whole I'd say the entire reason for
what looks like improved bridging is I must be at a lower temp relative to my filament and layer fan is on 100% which means better bridging...
Stringing will be a good thing on the layers just before it starts bridging for obvious reasons..
I'll take some better photos of the underside to show the area it had difficulty with (looks same area as yours..)
Re: Supportless Chair Torcher Test

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- Printmaster!
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Re: Supportless Chair Torcher Test
It's Slic3r and Repetier Host. I do use Cura for certain prints though as it's better at specific things but not everything, for example I'd not use Cura for this object.
Looking at this item the absolute key thing your trying to control is extrusion temperature (as low as possible) and you want the plastic laid down to cool as quickly as possibly
for the bridging layers. Same for the vertical narrow columns.. hence why I lowered the extrusion temp and had the layer fan running even on ABS, also with the vertical columns you'll need to print slow or they overheat. So your running the line between better bridging and delamination issues from laying down plastic too cool.
Normally i'll only use the Fan with ABS when bridging or printing narrow columns. Ohh and my printer isn't in an enclosure yet if it was I'd open it for this print....
I'm also exclusively ABS now, I very rarely use PLA and IMO it's the main reason my print has come out better, though it does look like yours was too hot, too fast(except when its bridging) and not enough cooling... think these are the key variables to get correct before messing with retractions..
Anyway here's my Slic3r file for My Orion Delta I used to print the chair in ABS. Only thing you'll need to check and change is your filament diameter and set it correctly:
I was lazy and just turned the fan on after layer 3 and left it running as the verticals need cooling along with the bridges and that's most of the print.. ** Edit.. just realised I've also got custom Gcode with warning beeps at various stages of heating and printing in the above ini.
2X beeps = i'm gonna move
4x Beeps = im at temp and your got 5 seconds to clear any ooze then beep 2X as move starting...
So just cut in your normal Gcode if you don't want all the warning beeps...
Looking at this item the absolute key thing your trying to control is extrusion temperature (as low as possible) and you want the plastic laid down to cool as quickly as possibly
for the bridging layers. Same for the vertical narrow columns.. hence why I lowered the extrusion temp and had the layer fan running even on ABS, also with the vertical columns you'll need to print slow or they overheat. So your running the line between better bridging and delamination issues from laying down plastic too cool.
Normally i'll only use the Fan with ABS when bridging or printing narrow columns. Ohh and my printer isn't in an enclosure yet if it was I'd open it for this print....
I'm also exclusively ABS now, I very rarely use PLA and IMO it's the main reason my print has come out better, though it does look like yours was too hot, too fast(except when its bridging) and not enough cooling... think these are the key variables to get correct before messing with retractions..
Anyway here's my Slic3r file for My Orion Delta I used to print the chair in ABS. Only thing you'll need to check and change is your filament diameter and set it correctly:
I was lazy and just turned the fan on after layer 3 and left it running as the verticals need cooling along with the bridges and that's most of the print.. ** Edit.. just realised I've also got custom Gcode with warning beeps at various stages of heating and printing in the above ini.
2X beeps = i'm gonna move
4x Beeps = im at temp and your got 5 seconds to clear any ooze then beep 2X as move starting...
So just cut in your normal Gcode if you don't want all the warning beeps...