Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I'm building a Kossel with the same overall dimensions as a Rostock MAX. That way, I can use Rostock upgrades and most of the firmware settings. So maybe it's a Kostock?

The end effector is done, mag arms are done, and the linear skates are almost done. They will be getting new printed parts with a different belt clamp setup - what you see in the pic is just a mockup.

Take a look (sorry for the crappy cell pics):

[img]http://i.imgur.com/rswsGeL.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/ilV5OUr.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/NLyJ5Iy.jpg[/img]

I CNC'd the carbon parts on my mill.

The apexes of the frame are totally redesigned, and printed in carbon reinforced ABS. I have half of them printed. Have the black ano'd 1010 8020 extrusions.

I will be using an Alligator board, 0.9degree steppers, and a 5.18:1 geared eztruder. 24V power supply, Onyx Rev3, blah blah blah.

Once everything is together and working, I'll post the files on my Github.

Chris

That looks amazing! Keep the posts coming.

Just finished these up too. These plates are going on the skates to stiffen the structure and clamp the belts, and because I can.

I used Grasshopper for Rhino to generate the cellular lattice. It's called a Voronoi graph. My LCD bezel and spool holder will have a similar aesthetic.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/6PYviQM.jpg[/img]

High Modulus Carbon Fiber ABS from 3DXTech, $60 for a 750g roll. Prints beautifully. That is a plain white sheet of paper, 3M77'd to the bed. Printing at 238 degrees, parts are very strong, and stiff.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/IKkQcJr.jpg[/img]

Chris

All of the corners have these extra holes for screws that go into the end of the extrusion. In the words of the Dude, it really ties the room together.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Nf2Ol6a.png[/img]

AWESOME!
That's a nice looking hotend

Are those skates available?

Just PM me. I'm not trying to make and sell a bunch of stuff right now, but we can probably work something out.

doctorgonzo wrote:I used Grasshopper for Rhino to generate the cellular lattice. It's called a Voronoi graph. My LCD bezel and spool holder will have a similar aesthetic.

I love that kind of techno-organic shape, very cool!

I have (probably) the best name for your printer: The Karbon Kopier.

^^ this ^^

I got some parts.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/hmtaUZg.jpg[/img]

IF I were to offer a kit, this is what it would look like:

[img]http://i.imgur.com/VKRp8EN.jpg[/img]

When I bought this box I swore I'd never fill it up. There I go lying to myself again.

Few interesting developments - I just got a new mill for the home shop (all the previous milled parts were G-jobs at work) so I'm reevaluating what will be printed and what will be machined. Nothing against printed parts, obviously, but y'know...machined aluminum > printed plastic.

I just want to say the OpenBuilds guys are awesome, and if you have a chance to do business with them, go for it. Their products are top notch. I'm using their bearings, rollers, spacers, eccentrics, and pulleys.

The Prometheus is an interesting animal. The heads of the fan mount screws stripped while threading through the plastic fan, and the zip tie broke while bending it to zipper it down. Doesn't inspire confidence. I just replaced the screws with McMaster items, no big deal. I guess none of that matters until I see how it prints. Curious to see how the E3D compares to the Prometheus.

Traxxas pivot balls are not spherical.

Rubber amplifier feet are awesome for 3D printers. I got these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H6 ... UTF8&psc=1

That's all for now.

Chris

Got a new doodad. 100A should be enough?

[img]http://i.imgur.com/37vMsyN.jpg[/img]

These guys are local to me and they are very friendly and professional. We are working on some interesting projects together for the 3D Printing community. More news to follow.

I also ordered a Volcano from E3D. So I have a Prometheus and two different E3D hotends to try out.

I can't wait to get this new printer up and running, so I can decommission the Rostock MAX for a few days for some upgrades! I've run upwards of 20 rolls of filament through my bone stock MAX (ok, I put in a 40W heater cartridge during the initial build) with no problems, and the whole thing is in need of some TLC.

Chris

Thanks for the source of the rubber feet, I will be buying some of those!

You're welcome. To pepper this thread with technical terms: these feet are ginormous! I threaded the bottom center hole of my vertical extrusions and used a 1/4-20 x 1" screw to hold them on.

Did a little assembly this afternoon...all of a sudden it went from a pile of parts to something resembling a printer. Here's a mock up shot:

[img]http://i.imgur.com/QlCdm7W.jpg[/img]

Any ideas on an ideal material for the heated bed "snowflake?" I was thinking of using 1/8" phenolic. Maybe getting crazy with the cheesewiz and gilding both sides with gold leaf. Kinda like this, same same but different:

[img]http://i.imgur.com/QqejIPv.jpg[/img]

Chris

Are those turbos???

catalytic converters for the mclaren F1 exhaust

That's some motor under the hood of your printer, how fast do those delta arms move, anyway!

jdurand wrote:That's some motor under the hood of your printer, how fast do those delta arms move, anyway!

So fast they need catalytic converters!!

I like it all black, looks industrial.

Thanks KAS. "Industrial" is what I was going for with the blackout treatment. Oh, and 10 interweb points to you for correctly identifying that engine bay. One of my all time favorite cars.

Any ideas on a good material for the heated bed snowflake? Needs to be dimensionally stable at high temp and not conductive...all it does is minimize warping, as far as I can tell.

I've been modding my own printer recently, but using CNC milled aluminum parts instead of carbon fiber. The new rigidity is excellent; the rippled corners are completely gone now. I bet your CF setup will be even more rigid!

About your bed,
I added a 3/8x14 inch MIC-6 aluminum plate to my rostock. It is flat to within 30 microns across the plate, very rigid, very thermally conductive, and dimensionally stable at high temperatures. The only problem is that it takes forever to heat up with a 12v limited power PSU. Still a big upgrade in my opinion.

I recommend attaching PEI to one side of it and using electrical tape around the exposed edges. It keeps the smooth blackout look but gives an excellent surface to print on. You don't even need to hold it down with clips, just put it on top of your heated bed and you're good to go!

I don't know if you want to toss money at your build, but I would contact this company and see what they can do for a custom granite surface. Something in the B grade has +/-0001 accuracy and it would add some hefty weight to the build.


http://precisiongraniteusa.com/pdffiles/PGPRICELIST.pdf

Thanks guys,

Generic, I'm trying to keep everything that moves lightweight and stiff.

I got some of this

[img]http://i.imgur.com/8gTdXUp.jpg[/img]

It's from S and S Machine, 5/16x16ish, cast tooling plate. http://www.sandsmachine.com/alumweb.htm

As far at the build plate assembly, I'm following the latest trend and thinking PEI. So, my assembly goes like:

-------------------------1/8" PEI sheet--------------------------
-------------high temp unicorn blood adhesive--------------
-----------------------borosilicate glass------------------------
------------5/16 MIC-6 aluminum heat spreader------------
---------------------Rev 3 Onyx on 24V------------------------
-----------snowflake, maybe 1/8" phenolic?????------------
I I------------spaced out spacers from space--------------I I
------bed mount/heat shield, probably 1/8"phenolic-------
--------------gold foil aka invisible bling bling----------------

Wow that's like, an inch thick. Hmmm.

I haven't ordered the PEI, adhesive, or snowflake material yet.

Chris

You only need .04-.03" PEI, 1/8" is pretty overkill, and will probably promote a marginally higher heat gradient.