Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Howdy All,

So it begins.....
All the parts are un-taped; not nearly as bad as all the posts made it sound

Got the hot-end assembled. Here in San Antonio, the Permatex Ultra-Copper High Temp RTV was available from Advance Auto, AutoZone shows it discontinued. Want a bunch of blank stares? Go to Home Depot or Lowes and ask for Kapton tape. Ultimately, ordered it from Amazon. Hot end is now sitting, as recommended, curing.
Got the power supply setup and the connectors attached.

Next up is to start in on the base.

You've begun your epic journey!

Day #2 -
Got the stepper motors, upright supports installed and to top of the base completed.

The only part about the instructions here was the orientation of the wires from the stepper motors. I had to take one apart and rotate the stepper motor 180 degrees to get the wires where I wanted them. I suspect it doesn't actually impact anything other than some OCD.

Next up to the get the Onyx bed pieces attached and then install it on the base.

Day #3 - So, not the fastest builder in the world, but only getting about 1.5 to 2 hours per day to work on it.

Got the Onyx bed wired up and installed on the base. Getting the components soldered to the Onyx was surprising painless and everything took the on the first try. Helps to have a good soldering iron.

kellyds wrote:Day #3 - ... Helps to have a good soldering iron.

This is key to any electronics project! Looks good so far. Run extra wires now. You will want them later!

A very good looking build at this point. Thanks for sharing the pictures!

Day #4 - Got the uprights wired and assembled to the base and then the top base installed. It's actually beginning to look like a printer

Only minor issues for this day:
- The #4 3/8" Sheet Metal screws that came in the kit don't seem to be the correct type. The supplied screws can't actually bite into the 'hole' (slot) in the top support. So, I picked up a few from Lowes. The picture in the instructions show the correct type of sheet metal screw, but what was in the screw bag was different.

- When putting together to top supports the instructions say that the support with block screw goes to the left, but I couldn't find anywhere it said which side was up on the top base. A couple pages later there was a picture of fully assembled top base.

So far this has been a fairly relaxing build; well, I'm moving at a relaxing pace at least. The instructions are actually quite good and easy to follow.

Day #5 - Got the mechanical build completed today. It actually looks like a printer now. Next up is to get all the electronics wired up and installed. I expect I'll be powering it up sometime on Sunday.

Day #6 - Finished getting everything wired up and connected, and put the finishing parts on the printer.

Went to do the 'smoke test' and no power. ATX power supply fan isn't turning on when the switch is turned on. I checked the switch to make sure it was working and it checks out good. I disconnected the power supply from the RAMbo to check to see if maybe there was a short, but looks and continuity checks good.

Possibly a bad power supply from the start; that would be really really unusual, but not unheard of.

Now I need to try to figure out how far apart I need to take it to change out the power supply.

Power supply should drop out through the opening in the bottom.

Thank you, thank you, thank you I was beginning to dread the task

Still looks like a great build and I hope you get the replacement power supply quickly.

It....... Lives.......

Installed a Corsair CX750M power supply

It has a modular cables, meaning, fewer wires behind the PSU. Downside? All the wires are black, so trying to find 6 yellow and 6 black is REALLY challenging and you have to be very careful.

That power supply has been used in a LOT of replacements for the original.
Should be the end of power supply problems.
GREAT JOB!

Day #7 - Build completed and first print came out incredible!

It is really quite amazing to see this printer go to work and start printing. While building it was a challenge, it wasn't a frustrating challenge. It was a great deal of fun. Even better is when the first print 'just works'.

Kudos to the SeeMeCNC team for creating such a wonderfully engineered kit!

Big thanks to the word of encouragement from the forums here; this is really a great community!
Sean

Hi There

I'm just getting started with 3D Printing and bought myself the Rostock V2. Great kit and the Guide is written so that it makes building easy.
So I came to page 209 of the manual and was nervos about firing up the printer. After checking every thing again I flicked the switch and after a short blinking of the LED on the RAMBo (top right when installed) and the LCD shortly flashing nothing happend.
After checking everything again and restarting the system I noticed that:
a. Fan of the ATX is not turning
b. RAMBo Cooling Fan is not turning
c. LCD Panal not showing what it is supposed to.

So I disconnected the ATX from the RAMBO and measured the Volt between the Black and Yellow Wire Pair.

Here two videos:
https://plus.google.com/113346957415001 ... 1LrgLiqNgh

I'm at the point of thinking that the ATX might be broken (out of the box).
Or something fried my RAMBo (i really checked every cable)
OR I did wire something wrong and therefore the RAMBo does not start correctly.

Can anyone give me a hint on what I should do next?

Regards

PS: I'm from Europe so 230V on the ATX is the correct setting.



EDIT
*****
So I decided to take out the ATX and have a closer look at it. When I walked over to the electric store I saw something move in the ATX. And there I think I found the "BUG". A loose spool, not soldered to the board!! Hope this production error did not fry my RAMBo. I'll fix it and see if it works after that.

It was the ATX spool and now it works all fine.!