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Does anyone have experience printing on a carbon fiber surface over the borosilicate glass or not?

I contacted Brooks Automation and might have used my Air Force email (which may or might not had influence...) Although they are sending a 300mm Carbon Fiber wafer sample for testing, expected delivery tomorrow. These carbon Fiber wafers are way to expensive to use in our application and I made that clear up front. Brooks expressed concern that any temperature over 100c is pushing the limits of the disk to guarantee the flatness. That's the main reason I'm expecting to use this surface over the glass with the same clip attachments.

The carbon fiber disks brand new, hold your breath because this isn't an April Fools joke: $300 bucks each.

They are sending me a "visual" defect sample knowing that I'm not using it for the intended purpose. I have no idea what it's going to look like. I'm hoping it doesn't have chunks missing out the center, but who knows.

I'll post picks when it come in.

O lawd have mercy, 300 dollars each!

How flat is it supposed to be? If the entire thing heats up evenly and the weave is homogenous, there shouldn't be much warp to it. Still, most CF epoxies aren't meant for high temperatures. I bought a flat piece of high temperature fiber board for use like a PEI sheet; I haven't had a chance to test it yet but I expect it will hold nylon down nicely.

Tell us what happens with the CF wafer.

Its W-hafer thin!

it's 1.2mm thick with a .15mm tolerance. I'm sure that's fine for a silicon wafer machine, and doesn't seem much for deviation but +/- .15 could look like a ruffles potato chips under heat

Well, it lays flat on my desk with no obvious cup or bowing. It has a small nick on the edge that shouldn't matter. I'll know more when I get it on glass.
The screen print on the top can be felt with my finger nail, and I'd assume can be taken off. I can't feel any woven carbon fiber which was my fear. I'm going to assume some type of resin infusion.

If this is a feasible surface for us, what's a good price point for their rejects?

That will be interesting to see how well different materials stick to it, and if it will stay flat. might have to double stick tape it to the glass like PEI sheet.
If it works really well you might be able to sell them for $20-$25

I really like PEI plastic as a print surface.

Another option is "BuildTak", I have not used it but a couple people in our maker space seem to get good results.
A 12" disk with adhesive back is $20.90
http://www.buildtak.com/product/buildta ... d-surface/


The Makerhive has 200mm (8") round X 1.7 mm thick silicon wafers for $10.00
It is only big enough for the Orion bed. No bigger ones available.
I am using one as a heat spreader under the glass of the Orion HPB. I have not printed onto it, but others say it works well with glue stick.
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=21

bvandiepenbos wrote:That will be interesting to see how well different materials stick to it, and if it will stay flat. might have to double stick tape it to the glass like PEI sheet.
If it works really well you might be able to sell them for $20-$25

I really like PEI plastic as a print surface.

Another option is "BuildTak", I have not used it but a couple people in our maker space seem to get good results.
A 12" disk with adhesive back is $20.90
http://www.buildtak.com/product/buildta ... d-surface/


The Makerhive has 200mm (8") round X 1.7 mm thick silicon wafers for $10.00
It is only big enough for the Orion bed. No bigger ones available.
I am using one as a heat spreader under the glass of the Orion HPB. I have not printed onto it, but others say it works well with glue stick.
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=21

I am interested in the buildtak but I would like more info from you, Brian or anyone from the Maker Space.
I am interested in what filaments stick well to it and at what temperature and if glue sticks, hair spray etc are needed on the Buildtak.

If you need a coating on it then it is not really doing its purpose.

teoman wrote:If you need a coating on it then it is not really doing its purpose.

I agree, that's why I am wondering if a coating is necessary. I cannot accept that some people are using Buildtak
without knowing more facts.

I absolutely agree, I only have PLA and ABS so my tests will be limited right now. But if you have apply anything to it in order for it to stick, then there's no point.

Brooks Automation wants $37.50 for the rejects. I don't know if they have profit built into that based on the original cost of $300. If you purchase in bulk the cost goes as low as $170 for 500 units. (no joke) That's out of my league for sure.

I'll be honest in saying the surface is slick right now. The camera doesn't pick it up, but its almost a mirror coating of whatever they're using or it's polished.

I just got home, let me do the husbandly duties so the wife leaves me alone tonight and I'll post more.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

teoman wrote:If you need a coating on it then it is not really doing its purpose.

I agree, that's why I am wondering if a coating is necessary. I cannot accept that some people are using Buildtak
without knowing more facts.

Everyone on other forums I've heard use it loves it. mhackney wrote a review about a year ago on the BuildTak site that praises it's use. It's just as cheap or cheaper than a PEI sheet and self-adheres, so I'd almost be sold on it over that option simply due to ease of use.

Buildtak has changed my life. The stuff is great, and the company has great support. It's definitely pricey, and delicate, but for paid prints it's certainly worth the cost.

I've only used PLA and ABS on it, both are a dream. With ABS, I up the onyx to 100 degrees for warp free parts and great adhesion without squishing the first layer. Based on everything I've heard, it's simply PEI with adhesive backing already applied.

Starting a Kossel upper in PLA now. Not sure if it's off to a good start, as skirt literally comes off with no force at all.

I'm going to say it's a no-go in its current form. PLA slides off the disk like eggs in a Teflon pan.

I'll send an email in the morning to purchase this disk. I like the thickness and rigidity of the carbon fiber, so I'm thinking about doing a light sanding to knock off the slickness and try again.

Worth a shot anyways.

Surface may have silicone residue from manufacturing. You might try an alcohol or acetone wipe down. Assuming the binder they used is solvent safe...

Earthbound wrote:Surface may have silicone residue from manufacturing. You might try an alcohol or acetone wipe down. Assuming the binder they used is solvent safe...

Isopropyl Alcohol and Windex is the most I've subjected this disk to. Going to wait till it's paid for. Just want to make sure they sent me a $37.50 visual defect and not a $300 sample.. That would be one heck of a screw up on my part.

That would indeed be very unfortunate.

PEI or Buildtak does not need any glue or hairspray that I know of. For ABA or PLA, I don't know about other filaments