Rostock vs other printers

[jasperash]

Hi all, I have been running an Up Mini 3D printer and am now looking at getting a Rostock max for its build size. The Up Mini has a small build area and trouble with the print board warping when printing ABS, slightly distorting larger prints. But apart from that the print resolution on the up mini is fantastic. Layer striations are tiny when printing at 0.2mm layers at normal mode, hardly noticable. I've seen a lot of Rostock photos that seem to have quite heavy striations from the print layering. Just keen to get peoples thoughts on how good a finish can be achieved with a Rostock.

The machine looks amazing, just not sure of the print quality is very good from the images I've seen. Any thoughts would be awesome, especially if you have seen both printers in use.

Thanks!!

[Jimustanguitar]

I very much like the machine. To save from reposting, check out my pictures in this thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=8543

You must be a technically capable person. The assembly is easy, but that's all subjective. Does assembling Ikea furniture scare you? What about rebuilding a lawnmower engine? If you're a tinkerer, go for it. If you're not, look at the Orion.

[jasperash]

Thankyou Jimustanguitar! Your images look great, just what I needed to see. I'm keen to build, no problems there. Really like your shapeoko belt tensioner print. Have you shared that file anywhere?? Would be great to replace the old cable ties on mine!

[jasperash]

So I just purchased a Rostock. Excitedly looking forward to the build!!!

[stonewater]

a couple of things to help reduce your headaches....

1- read the manual carefully, and do it exactly as Geneb says... don't skip a part, especially what the horizontal radius does. here is a tip. when you get to Z height calibration... set your Z zero, then set your tower zero's X Y Z (you will understand when you read) after that go back to Z zero. DO NOT ADJUST IF IT IS WRONG!!! this is where horizontal radius comes in.... Z height is adjusted by horizontal radius at this point.

2- you will need a few tools, a set of micro drills, for unclogging nozzles, and a digital angle gauge to get your towers vertical at some point. to ramp your prints to the next level.... it is very hard to get the towers exactly vertical without one, does not matter much on small parts but if you are looking to build tall it makes a difference.

3- start with ABS much less headache wise to begin with, run your bed at 95C

4- ELMERS purple glue stick, yes use it.

5- use a folded terry towel on your bed when you preheat it before printing. with the stock power supply you can wait up to a half hour for it to heat up. with the towel as an insulator it takes 10 minutes. run your pid autotune WITHOUT the towel. the first thing I do is glue stick, then preheat, as I am getting my print ready to go.

6- measure every spool of filament you use and make the adjustment in your slicer it can vary quite a bit.

7- make sure you really understand how the cheapskates work, how the eccentrics adjust them...

you will learn a lot and will make a bunch of mistakes..... Read MHackneys post on getting good prints.


Tom C

[Jimustanguitar]

Really like your shapeoko belt tensioner print. Have you shared that file anywhere?? Would be great to replace the old cable ties on mine!

http://repables.com/r/472/

[cyber.shifter]

I have found that a single strand from a piece of stranded 18 gauge wire works very well for unclogging the nozzle, as well as being easier and cheaper to get than micro drill bits. I run it through the nozzle end when I first heat it up, right before extruding some filament before a print. Just thought I would add that, since stonewater mentioned unclogging. You will most likely have to do this a few times in the beginning, I know I did.

[jasperash]

Thankyou all. I've just completed my Rostock build!! Now to get it printing!