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In regards to the Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd. Section 4 – Preparing the Onyx Heated Bed page 38. It calls for 14" of 18ga hotbed power wires. This was not included in the kit an not in the packing lists. Am I to assume that I am suppose to cut it from the 8' of the 18ga wire for the hot end alternate A wires? I did not get the alternate B wires so I am reluctant to cut my 8' piece without the instructions explicitly telling me to.

Respectfully,
ComDS

Staff at Seemecnc, if you are reading this could you respond.

To quote the support ticket responce:

"Daniel,

Yes, sorry. The wire comes as one full length

John Olafson
SeeMeCNC"

So to confirm you ARE suppose to cut the 14" from the 8' piece. Thanks guys for a quick responce.

comds wrote:To quote the support ticket responce:

"Daniel,

Yes, sorry. The wire comes as one full length

John Olafson
SeeMeCNC"

So to confirm you ARE suppose to cut the 14" from the 8' piece. Thanks guys for a quick responce.

Gene, is this worthy of an update to the manual?

It already covers that.

g.

I am reading the Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd and I didn't see it.

comds wrote:I am reading the Rostock MAX v2 Assembly Guide – 4thEd and I didn't see it.

top of page 38 I almost missed it too
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... e%2038.png[/img]

I think what he is saying is the manual does not tell him where to get these 14" wires, should he cut them from the long length of 18 GA wires or is he missing the 14" pieces.
I can see where that causes confusion.

Eaglezsoar wrote:I think what he is saying is the manual does not tell him where to get these 14" wires, should he cut them from the long length of 18 GA wires or is he missing the 14" pieces.
I can see where that causes confusion.

Yes I agree Eagle, I think I may have been slightly shorted on the length of 18Ga red and black wire provided, I used 14" of it as above and now wiring the towers I have only 7 1/2" at the base of the tower after adjusting the other end of the pair to the 30" from the centre hole in the lower top plate to the edge of the top bottom plate.

On the wiring of the towers one of my limit switches keeps having its metal leaf come out as I shift the assembly about adjusting the wires...I adjusted the width of the ears on the leaf that it pivots on slightly and it seems to be staying put... (when I helped a friend build a CNC wood router table it had limit switches just like the ones in this kit and they were one of the main areas of problems both mechanically and electrically so they are not may favorite bits of kit.).. I wont know till I test of course which since my replacement bed plate won't get here till after dark on Monday is still a few days off.

Windshadow wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:I think what he is saying is the manual does not tell him where to get these 14" wires, should he cut them from the long length of 18 GA wires or is he missing the 14" pieces.
I can see where that causes confusion.

Yes I agree Eagle, I think I may have been slightly shorted on the length of 18Ga red and black wire provided, I used 14" of it as above and now wiring the towers I have only 7 1/2" at the base of the tower after adjusting the other end of the pair to the 30" from the centre hole in the lower top plate to the edge of the top bottom plate.

On the wiring of the towers one of my limit switches keeps having its metal leaf come out as I shift the assembly about adjusting the wires...I adjusted the width of the ears on the leaf that it pivots on slightly and it seems to be staying put... (when I helped a friend build a CNC wood router table it had limit switches just like the ones in this kit and they were one of the main areas of problems both mechanically and electrically so they are not may favorite bits of kit.).. I wont know till I test of course which since my replacement bed plate won't get here till after dark on Monday is still a few days off.

Yes, those switches are not the best made in the world but with everything coming out of China it is difficult for us to control quality. I found a deal on Ebay for a pack of ten switches just so I could have some spares.
This is the link I used and as usual for parts on Ebay they are coming from China which takes about a month. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-Mini-Micr ... SwLVZVsofB
Amazon.com probably sells some also. SeemeCNC is another good source.

I looked around on Amazon and these look be exactly the same as the ones in the kit except the button is red
SODIAL(R) 10 Pcs AC 125V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC Short Straight Hinge Lever Mini Micro Switch
[img]http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/417-nAwshdL.jpg[/img]
they want all of $2.63 for ten including free shipping so I ordered them to have spares I look ar the ones with slightly better hinge design but they were all the roller contact type and since I have yet to install the CheapSkates (just building them now on my lap as I watch TV) I am not clear on how the contact with the switch id done I am guessing its the little metal screw on the top of the skate but until I fully build and see it work sticking with the same design.... at 26 cents each retail it does seem a better quality switch would not be hard to source if they become a problem.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

Windshadow wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:I think what he is saying is the manual does not tell him where to get these 14" wires, should he cut them from the long length of 18 GA wires or is he missing the 14" pieces.
I can see where that causes confusion.

Yes I agree Eagle, I think I may have been slightly shorted on the length of 18Ga red and black wire provided, I used 14" of it as above and now wiring the towers I have only 7 1/2" at the base of the tower after adjusting the other end of the pair to the 30" from the centre hole in the lower top plate to the edge of the top bottom plate.

On the wiring of the towers one of my limit switches keeps having its metal leaf come out as I shift the assembly about adjusting the wires...I adjusted the width of the ears on the leaf that it pivots on slightly and it seems to be staying put... (when I helped a friend build a CNC wood router table it had limit switches just like the ones in this kit and they were one of the main areas of problems both mechanically and electrically so they are not may favorite bits of kit.).. I wont know till I test of course which since my replacement bed plate won't get here till after dark on Monday is still a few days off.

Yes, those switches are not the best made in the world but with everything coming out of China it is difficult for us to control quality. I found a deal on Ebay for a pack of ten switches just so I could have some spares.
This is the link I used and as usual for parts on Ebay they are coming from China which takes about a month. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-Mini-Micr ... SwLVZVsofB
Amazon.com probably sells some also. SeemeCNC is another good source.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

Windshadow wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:I think what he is saying is the manual does not tell him where to get these 14" wires, should he cut them from the long length of 18 GA wires or is he missing the 14" pieces.
I can see where that causes confusion.

Yes I agree Eagle, I think I may have been slightly shorted on the length of 18Ga red and black wire provided, I used 14" of it as above and now wiring the towers I have only 7 1/2" at the base of the tower after adjusting the other end of the pair to the 30" from the centre hole in the lower top plate to the edge of the top bottom plate.

On the wiring of the towers one of my limit switches keeps having its metal leaf come out as I shift the assembly about adjusting the wires...I adjusted the width of the ears on the leaf that it pivots on slightly and it seems to be staying put... (when I helped a friend build a CNC wood router table it had limit switches just like the ones in this kit and they were one of the main areas of problems both mechanically and electrically so they are not may favorite bits of kit.).. I wont know till I test of course which since my replacement bed plate won't get here till after dark on Monday is still a few days off.

Yes, those switches are not the best made in the world but with everything coming out of China it is difficult for us to control quality. I found a deal on Ebay for a pack of ten switches just so I could have some spares.
This is the link I used and as usual for parts on Ebay they are coming from China which takes about a month. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-Mini-Micr ... SwLVZVsofB
Amazon.com probably sells some also. SeemeCNC is another good source.

now that i can run the skates up the towers i can see that the metal leafs that extend the contact area of the limit switches look to me to be totally unneeded as the adjusting screw on the skate seems to align perfectly with the actual switch button... is there any reason to to leave the flimsy swinging metal leafs on the switch at all? the on on my z tower just had come off 5 or 6 times during assembly and it was quite fiddly to get it back in position and at the same angle as the others.

Eaglezsoar wrote:I think what he is saying is the manual does not tell him where to get these 14" wires, should he cut them from the long length of 18 GA wires or is he missing the 14" pieces.
I can see where that causes confusion.

+1.

I also wound up filing a support ticket on this as the manual didn't say to cut these off (and I am reluctant to cut a wire unless told to do so) and other sections of the manual where wire gets cut explicitly call out the need to do so. That, plus the fact that they are pictured as two individual short wires (instead of the uncut spool) lead me to believe that two pre-cut wires should have been included.

I would not remove the leaves. Since they hang down at a diagonal they'll always be struck by the edge of the screw, which should be a consistent position wherever it's set based on the pitch of the screw. The same can't necessarily be said for the rest of the head of the screw, where it might hit otherwise.

IMBoring25 wrote:I would not remove the leaves. Since they hang down at a diagonal they'll always be struck by the edge of the screw, which should be a consistent position wherever it's set based on the pitch of the screw. The same can't necessarily be said for the rest of the head of the screw, where it might hit otherwise.

Thats a very good point I did leave them in place

I just have a feeling that one day the leaf on the Z tower is going to come off and I wont notice it until I see a problem in a print and of course by then the leaf will not be found anywhere so to restore things I will need to replace the switch

+1 here on recommending a manual update. I found the picture of the 14" wires, but was hesitant to measure off 14" off the length and cut it, since the previous set of wires were pre-cut, and nothing in the instructions said to cut them. I didn't want to wind up short later. It wasn't a big deal, but it caused me to look through the various parts a dozen times to make sure I hadn't missed a couple of pre-cut lengths.

Glad I found this post. (I was going to grab 14" of 18 gauge wire that I had in my electronics bin.)

Are you saying that there is NOT a 14" pre-cut length of red & black 18ga wires included? It's just two long red & black 18 ga wires?

tnx.

g.

geneb wrote:Are you saying that there is NOT a 14" pre-cut length of red & black 18ga wires included? It's just two long red & black 18 ga wires?

tnx.

g.

Yes Gene, that is what they are saying. There is just the two long pieces of red and black.

geneb wrote:Are you saying that there is NOT a 14" pre-cut length of red & black 18ga wires included? It's just two long red & black 18 ga wires?

tnx.

g.

Yep, just one long pair.

my kit also had no 14" pre-cut wire. I had to cut it from the long length.

Ok. I'll make note to get that revised.

tnx.

g.