Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hey Guys.

Working on building a machine from scratch, and wondered what you'd recommend for a heated bed. I've been thinking about one of the 300mm silicone heaters glued to an aluminum plate, but thought I'd check if any of you had found cooler options (well, hotter actually). What's the holy grail of heated beds?

I think I'd like to stick with 12VDC, but I am open to suggestion. I run 24v through an SSR on my Rev3 bed right now, but I don't think that I want to mess with more than one voltage on the new build...

Anyway, what is worth bookmarking and taking a look at?

You could run 24v for everything. Better performance from the motors that way.

The 12v onyx is good enough for me, with a bunch of cork underneath to insulate and an aluminum heat spreader.

The silicone heaters come with sticky side for attaching. I run a 24V on my Kossel250 and I am going this route for my MetalMax. Heats up fast and works great.

I'm eyeballing this one: http://www.robotdigg.com/product/562/30 ... Heater+Pad And thinking about going back to 12vdc. 300 watts, assuming that's the spec for the 12v model and not the 24, should be plenty of juice.

Plan B is the Keenovo, which runs on AC. It's also nice because it has the thermistor in the center. http://smile.amazon.com/KEENOVO-Circula ... m+silicone That install would be relatively painless because I could just swap out the DC SSR with one for AC and wire its power to the mains instead of the PSU.

Anybody remember one that was a big aluminum slab with heating cartridges bolted to the bottom of it? I remember it being prohibitively expensive, but I bet it worked. I've got a slab of AL from Sands Machine still, and I've thought about playing with that idea some more.

Does anybody make a kapton heater for 300mm?

I use the Robotdig 24v you linked to. Works great.

The AL with heating cartridges - was that Berrybot's heated bed? It's AC powered.

Go big: http://www.ultibots.com/400mm-heat-bed-kit/

300mm round: http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/R ... 67833.html

I rememembered that TriDPrinting has a 24V 300 mm Kapton: http://www.tridprinting.com/Heated-Bed-Components/

Hello. What is basically better, kapton heater or silicone pad? What are pros and cons of each?

I bought a 110v Keenovo heater pad a couple weeks ago. I was a bit hesitant to spend the $65 for it, but after having it in hand, it's actually carefully made and I'm pleased with it.

The plan is to design an aluminum bed to stick it to, and incorporate pads for FSRs and some kind of glass clamp to complete the package. I'll let you know how it goes.

Jimustanguitar wrote:I bought a 110v Keenovo heater pad a couple weeks ago. I was a bit hesitant to spend the $65 for it, but after having it in hand, it's actually carefully made and I'm pleased with it.

The plan is to design an aluminum bed to stick it to, and incorporate pads for FSRs and some kind of glass clamp to complete the package. I'll let you know how it goes.

I have used one for sometime now and it is awesome. I have it hooked up with a SSR now and it holds it temp within .1 degree. Awesome! Did I say Awesome!

Thank you! Is there 230 V version?

Kapton heater, anyone?

Renha wrote:Thank you! Is there 230 V version?

Kapton heater, anyone?

If you can settle for silicone, Keenovo will custom make you one.

the idea of having twice less powerfull (that means, less noisy) PSU looks very good, thank you

Jimustanguitar wrote:

Renha wrote:Thank you! Is there 230 V version?

Kapton heater, anyone?

If you can settle for silicone, Keenovo will custom make you one.

You can also get custom silicone heaters from Shenzen Ali Brother Technology via Alibaba. I paid about $35 for mine.

Thank you. What about relay? Should I use single channel relay just as with DC heater, or dual channel one for safety (i have ordered 220v pad)?

Renha wrote:Thank you. What about relay? Should I use single channel relay just as with DC heater, or dual channel one for safety (i have ordered 220v pad)?

Use a standard zero crossing DC-AC SSR such as SSR-25DA, or for 220V and no more than about 500W you can use the SSR-10DA as I did. If the heater is powerful enough to heat the bed to an unsafe temperature if left on, then it's wise to wire a thermal cutout switch mounted on the bed plate in series with the heating element.

Choose a silicone heater a little smaller than the bed plate so that you have room for fixings around the edge.

My delta described at https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/dc4 ... sel-build/ uses this arrangement.

Thank you for advices and link. I've just ordered CWD2425 with HSP-1 and HS501DR from Crydom at local electronics store. I am going to try to use external fixing, so ordered heater is almost same size as plate.

Renha wrote:Thank you for advices and link. I've just ordered CWD2425 with HSP-1 and HS501DR from Crydom at local electronics store. I am going to try to use external fixing, so ordered heater is almost same size as plate.

CWD2425 looks a good choice to me.