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Has anyone tried speeding up the onyx heat up with either a hair dryer or heatgun?

I assembled my v2 with the ps still set to its shipping 220 volt position (I missed the need to slide the switch to the 110 position and my PS did not have the yellow tag above the slot where the switch is worked.

I used a heat gun to get the bed to 80c on I would guess about 9 volts... it would then drop back to the low 70s and high 60sC range i was able to print the PEEK and layer fan housings by doing this but I would not recommend it as even moving the heat gun all the time it could cause you to over heat things... since selecting the 115 volt setting on the PS i have not had problems reaching the target temperatures for the bed ... but I am not an impatient sort of person

Yes buggy I have. I installed PEI and it caused wrinkling when it kept it on the spot too long. It does work reasonably, but be sure to warm it to below the cutoff temp, so it can equalize the temp of the glass, the bed itself, any heatspread, and the snowflake plate. if you don't, then you will suffer temperature stability wise.

Thank you guys for the quick response! I was just curious cause I recently finished building my Rostock max v2 on sunday and notice it takes forever to reach bed temp.

If you add a chamber, especially an insulated or heated one, that will improve heating times somewhat. Also, you could get yourself a 24V PSU (around 21A's, really, 500 watts) and a cheapish SSR, which will greatly improve heat up times (neighboorhood of five minutes is what I hear)

Put a towel on top of the heated bed, that helps it warm up quicker.

I have insulation below my heated bed as well. Mine takes about 10-15 minutes to get to 110°C with a towel overtop. I use that time to make tweaks to the slicing settings.

I have been researching a bit on doing the 24v psu for the heated bed. The biggest trouble i was having was with any other information relating to the psu. Thank you for the recommendation for the psu. Going to research it more over the weekend.